I bought this and have yet to get it to connect. I tried with WINK and it did not work. I've since converted my house to HUBITAT and have tried to Exclude it and include it but it's not giving me any indication that it's getting a signal.
Any ideas?
What are the steps to register this on Hubitat?
Thanks,
Mike
Pair it really really close to the hub.
Start the zigbee device include on HE. Power cycle the fan controller five times to reset it. You may have to repeat this multiple times to get the right on-off frequency. To me its still a mystery.
Then make sure you have one or two zigbee repeaters close to the fan controller when you return the hub to it normal location.
After that you can wait a day for the fan controller to use the repeaters or you can disable your zigbee radio for 15 minutes and then renable it to force your zigbee mesh to rebuild.
Your use of exclude and include concerns me, because these are terms used with z-wave devices. This is a zigbee device as @steve.maddigan points out. And his advice on additional repeaters is spot on.
P.S. Welcome to Hubitat!
Hi -@aaiyar thanks for pointing that out. I guess I assumed since it says wink it was Z-wave. I have now tried the 5 power off/on cycles but no luck.
My switch is a GE dimmer Z-wave device and I am wondering if that is part of the issue.
The Hubitat hub is in the other room about 25' in the horizontal and since this is a ceiling fan it's about 6' lower than the fan. I would think that this is close enough.
To get closer I have to get a 25' long ethernet cable and power cord. or is there another way of getting the hubitat close to the device?
Anyways, thanks for the help.
What switch?
You cannot put a smart switch ahead of the fan controller. (At the wall) Especially not a dimmer, smart switch or not. I hope that isn't what you meant.
A zwave switch does not shut the power off all the way - there is always a residual voltage so the zigbee module will not reset. Toggle the breaker instead.
I should probably add, if you truly do have a switch inline with the fan, you can damage the switch, fan controller, or the fan itself. These switches are not meant for fan duty, and the fan controller is expecting 120V not some reduced (dimmed) voltage.
Hi
Thanks for the help.
Yes, it is a GE Z-Wave dimmer. I have left it on full.
It’s been fine. Fan is over 10 years old and have not noticed an issue.
I will change back to regular switch to see if that solves the issue with discovering the remote.
My initial thought was to use the dimmer to slow the fan down but did not work very well and produced a humming sound from fan which I suppose was the alternating voltages fighting amongst themselves.
Gave up on the dimmer and purchased this remote.
Will redeploy the switch to another location.
Ok, put on single pole mechanical switch, tried the on/off for 3 second counts and can not get it to pair. Instructions say light will blink when it goes into pairing mode but can not seem to get it.
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