Before I look at buying another to replace it, are there any other similar controllers available, or maybe new fans? I've noticed almost all the zigbee fans that Home Depot used to sell are no longer available.
Problem I have is the fan was directly wired to the breaker, no switches. Though after buying a Caseta Pro a few weeks ago, debating if it would be worth going ahead and having the wires ran to add a switch.
Looks interesting, though if I'm having to run wires anyways, I'll probably stick with something that doesn't go in the fan canopy. Space was tight on this fan, I had a time getting the Hampton controller to fit.
The Inovelli LZW36 light/fan canopy module is pretty much a drop-in replacement for the HBFC and similar remote controllers. Same size, same wiring. As long as you have an always hot and neutral in the ceiling, you're good on that end. The switch module just needs an always hot and neutral, and can be located anywhere within RF range of the canopy. The switch doesn't even have a load terminal or relay, so no direct wire to the fan is needed.
I pre-ordered (and now have received) four before they were manufactured, and have installed two of the four so far. Other than the canopy communications disconnect glitch that now appears to be resolved with the latest firmware update, they are working fine for me. I call them the holy grail of HA, since every room in my house has a one-hot ceiling light/fan and I had no WAF-friendly way to automate any of my indoor lighting or fans until the LZW36 came along.....
That's good to know, and not how the installation guide for the LZW36 made it look. The wiring diagram had the switch and fan module on the same wire feeding the fan. My problem is the fan is directly wired to the breaker, There isn't an existing switch.
With so many potential wiring possibilities (probably not so many with fans, as with lights with multi-way switches), their wiring diagrams tend to cover the most common configurations. But as vreihen mentions, the fan module does not need to be wired to the wall switch; they don't even need to be on the same circuit.
I performed the Z-Wave pairing on both of the LZW36's that I have installed so far on my bench, with two lamp cords providing power to the canopy module (connected to a light/fan motor) and switch (which was temporarily mounted in a PVC surface-mount outlet box for safety).
I have also suggested that for those who do not like the look of the switch that you can mount it in an unused outlet's box ,and control the light/fan via Hubitat.....
Will the canopy module work without the wall switch on the Inovelli LZW36? My fans don't have switches, they are hardwired back to the breaker box. I'd love to replace the sometimes flakey Hampton bay controllers I have.
Is that resistor the only thing that burnt up? If so, and if you have the tools, I would just replace the resistor. Although then I'd probably try to bench-test the device before putting it back up in the ceiling, because it might just blow again due to some other internal fault.
The thought did cross my mind, but short of uninstalling one of the others I had, I wasn't sure how to find the the resistor size since its completely burned up. Honestly though without knowing why it blew not sure I would trust it afterwards.
If you have a switch in the room that is in a good location for the fan switch. You could remove the old box and add an old-work double box after enlarging the hole. Then wire the Inovelli switch in with the old light switch. This is a project for those that are experienced with house wiring.