Hampton Bay fan controller replacement?

Just had a one of my Hampton Bay fan controller's blow a resistor when I went to turn the light on with the remote this morning.

Before I look at buying another to replace it, are there any other similar controllers available, or maybe new fans? I've noticed almost all the zigbee fans that Home Depot used to sell are no longer available.

Problem I have is the fan was directly wired to the breaker, no switches. Though after buying a Caseta Pro a few weeks ago, debating if it would be worth going ahead and having the wires ran to add a switch.

Of course I would leave out the main question. Since the device died, there is no way to exclude it. Is there any thing other than hitting the "Remove Device" button I should do?

It’s z-wave, and I don’t have one yet. But this is what I plan to replace my Hampton Bay fans with someday.

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Since it’s a zigbee device, there is no exclusion process, that’s a function that applies to z-wave only actually.

You can simply remove the device from hubitat if you choose.

But do you have this device being used by any of your hub’s apps, automations/rules etc?

Removing the device from the hub can mess up those rules if you haven’t first removed it from each app that was using the device.

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Thank you for the reminder, luckily it wasn't being used by too many automatons.

I have 2 of the Inovellis, and so far I love them. For my fans, they seem to work a lot better than the GE fan controller.

S.

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Looks interesting, though if I'm having to run wires anyways, I'll probably stick with something that doesn't go in the fan canopy. Space was tight on this fan, I had a time getting the Hampton controller to fit.

The Inovelli LZW36 light/fan canopy module is pretty much a drop-in replacement for the HBFC and similar remote controllers. Same size, same wiring. As long as you have an always hot and neutral in the ceiling, you're good on that end. The switch module just needs an always hot and neutral, and can be located anywhere within RF range of the canopy. The switch doesn't even have a load terminal or relay, so no direct wire to the fan is needed.

I pre-ordered (and now have received) four before they were manufactured, and have installed two of the four so far. Other than the canopy communications disconnect glitch that now appears to be resolved with the latest firmware update, they are working fine for me. I call them the holy grail of HA, since every room in my house has a one-hot ceiling light/fan and I had no WAF-friendly way to automate any of my indoor lighting or fans until the LZW36 came along.....

That's good to know, and not how the installation guide for the LZW36 made it look. The wiring diagram had the switch and fan module on the same wire feeding the fan. My problem is the fan is directly wired to the breaker, There isn't an existing switch.

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With so many potential wiring possibilities (probably not so many with fans, as with lights with multi-way switches), their wiring diagrams tend to cover the most common configurations. But as vreihen mentions, the fan module does not need to be wired to the wall switch; they don't even need to be on the same circuit.

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I performed the Z-Wave pairing on both of the LZW36's that I have installed so far on my bench, with two lamp cords providing power to the canopy module (connected to a light/fan motor) and switch (which was temporarily mounted in a PVC surface-mount outlet box for safety).

I have also suggested that for those who do not like the look of the switch that you can mount it in an unused outlet's box ,and control the light/fan via Hubitat.....

Will the canopy module work without the wall switch on the Inovelli LZW36? My fans don't have switches, they are hardwired back to the breaker box. I'd love to replace the sometimes flakey Hampton bay controllers I have.

Hey @cstory777 -- unfortunately no, they will not as the Z-Wave portion is located at the switch, whereas the canopy only has RF capabilities.

Ahh, I was afraid of that. Won't work for me then. Thanks for the quick reply.

Is that resistor the only thing that burnt up? If so, and if you have the tools, I would just replace the resistor. Although then I'd probably try to bench-test the device before putting it back up in the ceiling, because it might just blow again due to some other internal fault.

The thought did cross my mind, but short of uninstalling one of the others I had, I wasn't sure how to find the the resistor size since its completely burned up. Honestly though without knowing why it blew not sure I would trust it afterwards.

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Blew, blew, blew is 66 MΩ, if I remember my resistor color codes correctly. :grinning:

Of course, I should throw in a disclaimer that I'm an expert at letting the "magic smoke" out of electrical circuits.....

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If you have a switch in the room that is in a good location for the fan switch. You could remove the old box and add an old-work double box after enlarging the hole. Then wire the Inovelli switch in with the old light switch. This is a project for those that are experienced with house wiring.

There is and I'll have to double check that the neutral is in the box. So far most of the switches I've replaced the neutral wasn't in the box.

I appreciate everyone's responses. It gives me several things to consider. I've got 2 paths forward.

  • Re-wire the fan to use a Lutron Caseta Light switch/dimmer and a separate Fan switch.
  • Install the Inovelli LZW36, hopefully using the wiring from an existing switch, worse case re-wire fan.

Hey kc8nmz I know this was a couple months ago but I found a new fan controller by Hampton bay that seems to have replaced the discontinued one you referred to.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Premier-Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Remote-68131/205846352

Does anyone have positive confirmation if this is also Zigbee protocol and if it will work with the same drivers etc. as the previous HBFC talked about in the thread below?