But voltage from the control side is not what leaks to the switched side. And in this type of circuit, where we are talking 5v max, 1.3v (or 20%) isn't just leakage. You're just being trying to cover yourself now.
We are talking a 5 v circuit. Not a mains circuit. If I apply 5v to this chip and get 110v out now THAT would be something. We are also talking a DC circuit. So there is no line and neutral.
Ok Ryan I think you are right. Sorry for covering up my mistake.
I would assume it is. Don’t know how they would dim otherwise. There’s almost no current from it (no idea how much though). I don’t own an oscilloscope. I’m not concerned about the solid state relays being fried by it. The output is well below what the ones I listed here can handle. I tried a small 3V relay on the output and it couldn’t close it.
I think it’s just a cheap relay or a bad optocoupler maybe? The other one didn’t do that and the voltage went right to zero.
If you just need a contact closed with no voltage like maybe closing the contact on a remote like I did with my iSmart Alarm remote for HE, you don’t get that. I confirmed that with my multimeter that has a continuity test. This is my previous experience with Solid State Relays too. So adding a mechanical relay would solve that issue. It would be nice if you only needed one relay, but that won’t work for all scenarios, and the output is too weak to close an electromagnetic relay.
Although...it appears Lowe’s will take anything back! 
And yes, these two Hue Ambient Spots that retail for $51 CAD and the Hue Ambient bulb that retails for $28 CAD were just $1.35 each and all of them work perfectly 
Why not just use the mechanical relay? Why do you need both? That's the part that I don't understand.
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There isn't enough power to drive a mechanical relay direct from the circuit. So you need a low power solid state relay to switch power from the external power supply to a mechanical relay that then gives you dry contact switching.
Isn't enough power?!? You can drive a 5v relay with an ESP8266 and that only gives like 20 mA . This has to be at least that much. And if not, then use a transistor. I don't understand the need for two relays. There are much better ways to handle it.
He also never tried just a mechanical relay. All he tried were two solid state relays.
In fact, I found a mechanical relay with a switching current that is HALF of the solid state relay he bought.
Maybe you should just give up while you're behind.
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I'm just telling you what the guy with it actually on his desk found. But of course you are right, as you always are.
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He didn't try a mechanical relay. He tried two solid state relays. When he talked about a mechanical relay he was just saying that...read it again.
And i don't care what he's got on his desk. You are wrong.
Plus, you never answered my other question....even if there weren't enough power, why would you use another relay? That seems like the best way to solve that problem to you?
I actually tried a mechanical relay. I don't just make stuff up.
If anyone wants to take the information I learned here and expand on it, correct it to your satisfaction, ridicule it, whatever. I don't really care what you do with it. This was a fun side project that I'll personally get a lot of mileage out of. It's posted here in Lounge purely to share what I learned while I was having fun.
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Sweet deal!
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Care to apologise, Ryan?
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You still haven't answered my question. Even if this module was not able to provide the power needed to trip a mechanical relay, you really think that using ANOTHER relay is the correct way to fix that problem? I'm not responding to any of your comments until you respond to mine.
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I really have no idea what a Switchmate is (I’m sure I’ll Google it sometime) but I love the invent fullness and experimentation. Most of this was a good read, thanks !
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It was a good idea, poorly implemented. Only fits North American light switches. You didn’t miss anything 
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