I bought this unit and have been trying to connect it to Hubitat Elevation. No luck. Do I need to have the tuya app? I hate to use Chinese apps because I don't know what information they are sending back to china.
Did you purchase the zigbee version? Or the WiFi version. Only the zigbee version works with Hubitat.
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Manufacturer shows the same on mine.
I don't know what the F2 child device is either. I just used the 4 relays.
F2 is the endpoint of Tuya's Green Power cluster implementation.
I have no idea why Tuya is exposing it, as It is of absolutely no use for the DC powered relay controller. Can be simply ignored.
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Step one would be to clarify which module you got.
If it's the ZigBee series we have all tried then we need to learn what you've tried and where it's hanging.
This amazingly has been one of the easiest no-name devices to join AND STICK relative to some other named devices we'd EXPECT to be easy and aren't.
I'm going to reply/post on this post with a Use Case topic because @david4 has the picture right there and has made the most recent complete post on these devices (and you guys following this thread seem to care about the applications thereof).
So, here's my objective.
To control a 12VDC (less than 1amp under load) actuator which when wired and powered in one polarity will extend to the point of the internal fully extended limit switch. When wired and powered in the opposite polarity it will retract to the point of the internal fully retracted limit switch. These are typically set up with DTDP relays or just a momentary rocker switch that powers -/+ in one throw and +/- in the other.
I have one of these devices ( the 4 relay version) in a location where I am using two of the relays and I am wondering if I could safely use the other two relays to achieve this polarity reversal control of the actuator.
So I'm thinking (out loud) that I'd wire the + from the battery to the COM on one relay, and the - from the battery on the COM of the other relay (actually there is a solar panel controller in there, this isn't really going direct to a battery).
Then using the Normally Open and Normally Closed of each relay I'd achieve the polarity reversal capability depending on the state of the relays, ON or OFF. On paper it seems to look like it might work if there were no inrush or other transitional switching issues. I have to work through the logic again because I'd rather not send power after the limit switches have been hit. That might just be a timing thing to work out because I either want the actuator fully extended or fully retracted, no in-between.
Someone that works with this stuff all the time might be primed to say- "no no no, that's going to cause issues or fry something, this is what you'd use to to achieve this". I'm waitin to hear that if so. Thanks in advance.
EDIT: Refering answers to this to another thread specific to this problem.
yes, Bought the MHCOZY 2 channel ubit. I think it's the zigbee version.
This is what I bought.
MHCOZY 2 Channel 5V 12V ZigBee Smart Relay Switch,Adjustable Self Lock and Momentary Interlock Working Mode,Works with Philips Hue, SmartThings, Alexa, Google Home (ZigBee Hub Required)
Whoops! Apparently I bought the wifi version. I will return and get teh zigbee version. Thanks.
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okay, i have a new tuya zigbee wall switch. itās actuall branded ājerry martinā, but anyway. itās a simple single relay switch. but, it has two endpoints for some reason. what on earth is the F2 thing? can you clarify further?
Tuya have decided to use the F2 cluster to expose 'Green Power' capabilities that I am not familiar with. It is of no use with HE...
Have you tried the inbuilt 'Generic Zigbee Switch' driver?
i managed to get it all working using the generic zigbee switch driver. itās just odd (annoying) that it doesnāt come in this way by default when joining. it comes in as a multi endpoint device. quite odd. even more odd is i found a tuya driver that lets me reverse the led indicator. but thatās a fail, since this is a neutral not required device, if you turn the led on when the switch is off, each time it repeats a signal, the lights connected to the switch flash. this is due to how current is always drawn to maintain the radio. when you add the minimal amount of current from the led, itās just enough to make the light connected to the circuit flicker when the radio repeats a signal. iām sure someone might get a kick out of knowing this.
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Subject - Power outage effect on these relays.
I have the 1 Ch, 2 Ch, and 4 Ch versions of this relay.
I have the 1 Ch on a 12V DC power source that cuts off every night and back on every morning. That thing has NEVER to my knowledge not rejoined the Zigbee mesh and been a transparent joy/workhorse for my use case.
However, I "think" both the 2 Ch and 4 Ch versions of this have given me some rejoining headaches in their configurations on low budget solar power (where occasionally the sky isn't blue, the panel isn't big enough, and the battery is on it's last leg).
Anyone else have these on an inconsistent DC source and noticed that the 2 and 4 Ch versions don't necessarily come back onto the mesh without prompting?
Maybe it has something to do with some messy behavior in a dwindling voltage situation with the solar case (where I drop down to 11.5v DC before the solar controller cuts the load). Whereas I have the 1 Ch version in a stable 12v DC on/off (mains powered) setup.
Thanks in advance for your comments.
I have this same model 1 and 2 channel versions but connected to a 12V SMPS power supply (Stable supply with UPS).
Are you still facing issue with "Mesh Rejoining" ?
I can try with a bench power supply (with variable power supply) and test it if you need it.
Just saw this thread and was excited to try out the 4 channel version. While on Amazon I saw that it can be had in a nice case that makes all the buttons available (and labels them) for just a buck or two more. If you want a 120V powered one it is available now, but I wanted a USB plugged one and that is a long lead - but also comes with a little RF remote.
https://www.amazon.com/MHCOZY-Adjustable-Self-Lock-Momentary-Interlock/dp/B0B1D5KQ16
EDIT - found it from a reputable EBAY seller in the US for even less, and it had a 5% off code on the page... Wound up being $21ish total. Should have one with the case next week.
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Take careful notes on the behavior of that one, I have used the 1 Ch ones with absolutely no issues, INCLUDING nightly powering off on the remoted 12v DC circuit going out to it and other stuff (so it goes off the mesh).
BUT I have suspected the 2 Ch & 4 Ch don't behave as well, certainly not on solar power that often doesn't make it through the night. So this very well could be my poor power implementation and not the device.
Just the same, be mindful of the 2 Ch or 4 Ch device not coming back onto the mesh without some manual intervention. And....be on the lookout for a possible inundation of Zigbee traffic that provokes wonky behavior with other proximal devices on your mesh.
(Disclaimer: I may be off base here as I was installing another device at the time I was encountering a collection of Zigbee-ish issues...it was a power monitoring outlet favorite in Hubitat-land ....and since I don't have the 2 Ch relay running holiday lighting now that outlet has been rock solid 
)
I use the 2 channel to control 2 garage doors and a 4 channel to run a variable speed pool pump and both have been rock solid. The 4 channel gave me a problem immediately after installing but turned out to be defective and the replacement has been working fine.
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Good to know. Can you recall what exactly that behavior was. Some of this stuff "in concert" can be a nightmare to identify as "the source" of a problem.
It began to fail as in not following a command to turn on and off and then just died.
The replacement and the 2 channel work flawlessly.
The 4 channel is mounted outside and I use 3 channels to select different rpm's.
Very nice setup.
