GoControl Garage Door Pairing

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1

I probably missed it elsewhere, but thought I'd ask about the GoControl Garage Door opener and why it's not pairing completely. I read some folks saying they had challenges initially and a difficult time figuring out why it didn't work, but I didn't see what the cause / conclusion was so figured I'd ask.

I can get it to pair (although it seems I had to reboot the hub). It uses the generic z-wave garage door opener. The problem is there are no logs, not current state, and the open close don't do anything. It's listed as a device, but that's it. Am I missing a step here?

2

The GoControl and the Linear are the same products, as is the Iris...

It's in a Class of Barrier Devices and MUST pair securely:

Data
deviceType: 18244
zwaveSecurePairingComplete: true
inClusters: 0x72,0x98,0x5A
deviceId: 12336
manufacturer: 335

If it just pairs, the spec says it can do nothing.

On the Device Info page for your specific device, scroll towards the bottom, you'll see that Data row...

Locks are in the same Class, needing the same secure Join.

Also, at the top of Settings: ZWave Details you will find an option:

10%20PM

3

Got it. I didn't have the SecurePairing in the data section so I removed the device and repaired. Not sure if there was something I was suppose to do more than that, but now it's there.

Unfortunately I had it working on my couch but now that it's at the garage door it's giving me this in the log:

2019-03-08 02:56:08.814 pm debugzw device: 0B, command: 9881, payload: 00 71 05 00 00 00 FF 06 45 00 parsed to ['displayed':true, 'descriptionText':Generic Z-Wave Garage Door Opener remote operation disabled (UL requirement)]

Does that mean the hub is too far away?

4

OK, I think I got it working. Just for others, pretty sure my hub was too far away. I moved it and it could connect. The opener also requires the tilt sensor to be installed. I thought I'd mention it as I imagine it limits some of the functionality for some.

5

The tilt sensor was the reason for

disabled (UL requirement)

UL is Underwriters Laboratory, a safety testing lab. The rest of the UL requirements are the beeping and flashing before the door will close. There is a somewhat regular occurrence (after 2 years or so) of the flashing LED burning out causing the door to stop operating.

6

That's a bummer. Is it something I can replace? Or is it basically a throw-away item then? I'm on the fence as I could just get a momentary switch and use it with a sensor.

7

The LED can be replaced. There is a thread here with some references to replacing the LED.

8

Wow, that's super helpful. Thanks for the share. I am fairly comfortable with an iron, but given the price I'm not sure it's worth it. I was considering getting FortrezZ Z-WavePlus MiMO2+, a couple of contact sensors and a siren (or speaker if that's too loud) to do the same thing, Not as secure and a little more all up, but then I could do both doors.

know of anyone who's gone that route with Hubitat?

9

I think I would do that if I had to do it from scratch. If/when my LED fails, I would probably try a repair first but would fall back to the dry contact route.

10

Great info. unpairing and re-pairing at about 3 ft did it.

1 Like
11

Thanks for this tip. Pairing it within 3 ft of the controller also did the trick for my unit. That and ensuring that the LED and BEEP functionality as well as the tilt sensor being paired all worked. Without the 3 safety features (tilt, beep, and LED blinking) the device might make sounds but will never actually send a signal to the pushbutton garage wires.