Exclude the USB Stick and then add it to the hub again. Not sure if that will make a difference or not but thats the best chance for it to work.
To exclude it from Hubitat should I unplug it, start a Hubitat Z-Wave exclusion and then plug it in?
Then once it is excluded, pull the PC stick out, start a Hubitat Z-Wave inclusion and then plug the PC stick back in?
Plugging it in does not start exclusion / inclusion. You have to start it from PC Controller. It should be covered in the guide.
As noted, instructions to exclude your UZB stick are in the Ghost Removal PDF, follow the steps there.
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So I finally, finally, finally got rid of the second ghost. I had literally thrown all the circuit breakers in my house, unplugged all of my smart plugs to be sure they weren't on a UPS, and took out the batteries from all of my clickers (3 Fibaro KeyFobs - the one with six buttons, that kind of looks like a tear drop, and 1 Aeotec 4 button clicker),
None of that worked. The Remove Failed failed over and over again.
Being desperate I scoured the instructions some more and near the bottom of the instructions there was a bit about, What if I'm not in the U.S.?
Well, on the one hand, I know Florida is in the U.S. (even if we don't act like it at times 
) and I had used the PC Controller to remove the other ghost, so logically it seems it should have been set correctly, but I figured, what the heck, I've tried everything else at this point, so I went into it.
What I found is that it was set to US-LR. I'm assuming "LR" stands for Long Range. I'm guessing that was auto-selected as my PC Stick is a Zooz 800. I changed the region to just "US", clicked Set and then tried to remove it again. Voila! It worked and the ghost is gone!
I don't know why I was able to remove the one ghost with the US-LR setting and the other required just the US setting, but I would suggest that be added to the instructions.
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Glad you finally zapped the ghost! Good sleuthing.
The settings/changes is kinda bizarre - haven't heard of that happening before. And the fact that it worked once before you changed it is also weird. Copying @JasonJoel who is the closest around we have around here to a Z-Wave LR expert. Jason - have you done any experimenting with PC Controller and Z-Wave LR settings?
@danabw IMO you should remove all the tips about powering off devices from the guide. It is totally useless and just wastes peoples time. I have no idea why or how that rumor started but I am calling it BS. The only time it would help is if you are trying to remove a device that is still powered up and attached to the node you are trying to remove (which you should exclude the device instead). So by shutting down power to all devices as @Stu_The_K , it opens the chance to accidentally remove a good node. Normally having the devices on and responding would prevent an accidental removal.
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I sure don't know. Since this was an exceptional ghost in that it still had a route, and made the original device disappear, I don't know if the power off was required or not. I know I wasn't able to get rid of the 1st ghost until I powered down the next device on the list. Maybe that was just a coincidence, maybe not. (And, by the way, I did try an "exclude", which said it worked, but then didn't exclude it).
So as much as I appreciate all the time everyone put into helping me, that is why I wish there was an official position from either Hubitat and/or Silicone Labs, and even beyond that, why I wish there was telephone tech. support from Hubitat.
But, in the meantime, I want to again thank everyone who took so much of their time to help me over this multi-month journey, and if my "discovery" of using the "US" vs. "US-LR" setting helps anyone down the road, then I'm happy to have maybe saved them some of the many, many hours I put in removing these shots.
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I'd have to go digging to try to find them, but IIRC we had comments here (including Stu's, above) that seemed to indicate that removing power from the likely creater of a ghost allowed removing it, after remove failed when the ghost creator device was powered up. I may be making up memories as I did not originate that advice, it came from others who were here when I first joined several years ago and so I included it in the guide. I can't say that I have ever tested the approach myself.
Let's take this to another topic to discuss...I'll ping you.
I don't care how many times people think that's what made it work, its just not logical that it would make a difference. Once the device is paired to a new node it has no knowledge of any prior nodes so would not respond to a ping.
There have been plenty of posts where people have gone to the length of powering off the entire house except the hub and router and they still could not get it to remove using the hub. Have also been plenty of people who have no issues using PC Controller to remove things.
This entire thread is an anomaly.
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I sure have. It is interesting, as there are multiple versions of the PC controller that will actually set the radio strengths incorrectly if you start flipping around the region settings.
I will say I haven't seen changing the region settings do anything weird like that in PC controller in a few versions though.
I usually leave my USB sticks in the USA LR setting all the time, and have never had any trouble excluding devices with it.
Assuming no bug in the PC controller software, it should be safe to swap regions at will though.
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