Generic Z-Wave driver issues with 2.x

How did you work out which node was faulty though if it's throwing errors all over the place? I'm having a nightmare with Zwave at the moment. I'm beginning to wish I hadn't sold my old Homevision Pro and X10 gear!!

Sorry, I should have put in that previous post that XBee is for Zigbee devices. I can just look at signal link quality with an XBee and Zigbee devices using the XCTU app. For the Insteon I was lucky to have a very distinct indicator. The outlet was behaving very odd, and then wouldn't respond. Wouldn't reset properly, and then worked, and then stop working. Super close to the Insteon hub, so I knew it probably had a dead radio and was just using powerline to communicate, which was pretty obvious that wasn't working well either.

No. If you managed to get money for X10 gear, you did well. I still really like my Insteon gear and the more I try other brands and types, the more I appreciate how well they are designed and manufactured. I have a reliable way to control them from HE now. Hope someday to have a full integration with them though. They really are worth the price, which is comparatively low vs Z-Wave devices.

I don't know of a tool for Z-Wave or method other than process of elimination. Do you have a ton of Z-Wave devices? Can you unplug what can be unplugged (one by one) and air-gap what can be air-gapped?

I've just counted and I have 41 Z-wave devices so trial and error would take a while, especially as I would have to wait a couple of days each time to see if the problems come back. I have a ticket in and Bobby is doing all he can (including on a Sunday, the support on HE is truly amazing). He seems to be able to get it back OK for a day or so but then something goes flaky again, but not always the same thing frustratingly.

Don't know if it's feasible, but maybe you could take them in groups of 10? Once you find the problem group, then you could drill down from there to find which one of the 10 is giving a problem (assuming that's the issue).

Thanks, I’ll try that. At least I only have 2 of those, might just be time for a trip to Lowe’s and replace them.

:confused: I thought you were in the UK based on this photo.

You may want to update your Profile to have a Location.

Click your self in the upper right corner, Click the gear. On the left, click Profile and (finally) you’ll see Location.

That Location info is then shown to anyone that clicks your name in a message posting.

The problem is though, as soon as you remove any zwave device you change the layout off the zwave mesh and therefore what you are testing isn't the same anyway.

We do seem to be getting somewhere but I've had to strip out some apps, devices and drivers that I really wouldn't want to be without. Once we get stability over a few days I can start adding them back in one at a time watching for problems.

Well, here are my findings with those switches. Using the provided HUSBZB-1, I had nothing but problems regarding the GE switches whether the plus model or not, it would work for a while to then not work at all. I switch to the Z-Stick gen5 and it works instantly. Granted the switch to a 3rd party zwave stick was a real PITA but the refresh of the old school zwave vs zwave + is the same using the same generic driver setting it to the smart mode on the Z-Stick. From reading on other forums, it's not foreign for this stick to have issues. Using a 3rd party zwave stick is a real pain with this hub, mainly the lack of Discovery and lack of creating unknown when the stick has known IDs and the hub doesn't.

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Hmmm, that's concerning. I just had similar issues pop up with two of my switches. A couple weeks ago, they'd happily report their status with a physical interaction, even though they were detected as "Generic Z-Wave Switch" (no "smart"). I just checked now, and currently I get nada until I manually refresh. They were working though, I'm certain of it.

Of course, this is only a problem when I want to respond to physical actions.

As with others, it's the GE switches giving me issues.

@bravenel, is there any chance this is related to other issues with the physical reporting in 2.0.2? I saw another thread where people were having dimmer issues.

If you have the zwave plus switches, you should be using the "smart" dimmer to get physical reporting...no polling necessary. Ensure you click SAVE after selecting the new driver and then click CONFIGURE.

I been using this with my GE Z+ dimmer for months without issue.

Good advice. Although I'll chime in and say that this having to click configure afterwards is BS.

If you need to do that when switching drivers, HE should just do that automatically.

This product has such a long way to go in terms of usability and fit/finish.

It was the same in ST. If you install a driver it should automatically execute a configure command. If you select a new driver manually, it isn't really "installing" it. Install is executed during the inclusion process only (as far as I know anyway). Therefore it is necessary to manually click configure after manually selecting a driver.

I guess I didn't change drivers enough in ST to know that. I have the same comment for them, then.

Any time you should ALWAYS do something after a specific action, the system should do it for you.

Here's my take. I'm fine with having to save. No reason to waste coding time, memory or processing power to monitor a static web page to see if I changed it. This is a very young product and I think the HE team is doing a great job. I'd rather they focus on adding important features.

You don't HAVE to hit configure. It's just best practice. If the drivers are close enough, it won't make a difference because the configuration would be essentially the same. If there are any additional attributes or reporting commands, then you would need to hit configure to get them added.

I personally would not want this to happen automatically when swapping drivers as it may reset other custom configs I have setup on a device.

As stated above, hitting configure is best practice to ensure all the attributes and reporting are setup the way the driver expects it.

I'm not arguing with anyone - really. Or at least I'm not intending to / not meaning it to come across as that.

And I understand it doesn't do it automatically currently.

But looking over about the last year of posts, almost every time this comes up the first question is always - did you press configure?

If that is what we are going to tell users, then the system should do it by default in my opinion. The default should be what is good for the majority, not the minority.

But I respect that others have a different opinion. And that's cool too.

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You are not coming across as argumentative at all....healthy discussion from my point of view.
Everyone is entitled to their opinion and I've been wrong about mine quite a few times...may be wrong here too :grin:.

I actually don't think the issue is really even with having to hit the configure button. It really stems from the devices not being paired with the correct driver in the first place. The main reason you probably never saw this much in ST was because they are a mature ecosystem so the need to manually swap drivers was a rarity. The HE team have been diligent with adding fingerprints for devices to the correct drivers and as time progresses, people test more and more devices, and share their fingerprints....this should be less and less of a factor.

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That's a good point. This should become less and less common anyway.

If that's the biggest problem we have, we are doing well. :smile:

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This is the first I've heard about the "smart" Z-Wave driver for Z+. Some of my devices have been pulled out of random bins and I'm not sure which are which. Is there a way to know if a given switch is plus?

I tried to use the device selection list from the Z-Wave Polling app, on the theory that only non-Plus devices would be offered. But my Zooz dimmer was listed and my docs say it is Plus.

How about: is there a downside to using the smart driver for non-Plus devices?