I have a GE switch that has been working fine, had a brief neighborhood power outage today, and it's come up w/a blinking LED, and light connected to it is not controllable via the physical switch.
The switch still shows up in my Z-Wave table, but doesn't control via device page either...it seems to get (some, not all?) commands after a long delay, as I'll sometimes see the light flash briefly on/off after I send a command.
Sounds like it may have reset, or has a fault that needs manual intervention. Have you tried air gapping the switch for 30-60 seconds to see if that makes it re-negotiate?
Thanks - I air gapped, but not for that long...I'll pull the air gap for a minute first and see if it makes any difference.
@Pantheon - haven't tried a removing and re-pairing yet, first wanted to confirm the blinking LED and lack of direct control weren't a sign of the EOL on the switch. Will get to that if the air gap doesn't help.
Usually, it's one of the large polarized capacitors that was damaged by the power surge. If you are handy with a soldering iron you can replace yourself.
Thanks...methinks you are correct. Long air gap didn't help.
Air gapped and removed the switch, but won't pair w/the hub, or do an exclude no matter what I do. Tried:
Single tap to start pairing
Three taps on/three off to reset
Ten taps on to reset
No result from any of those options.
It's one of my oldest switches (one of a set that I installed when I first started w/SmartThings) so I think I'm just going to replace it rather than mess w/replacing a diode. Likely make a small mistake and set my neighborhood on fire.
Had a GE Zwave outlet get toasted on a power outage I had last year. Heard a clicking noise in the hallway when the power was restored and it was the relay trying to turn on the power but just continually cycling.
Anecdotally it is looking like GE (Jasco) devices are susceptible to damages during power outages...
You will need to turn off the circuit breaker for a minute or so then turn back on. If you still can't physically control the switch then it's toasted.
I did have a few like this before.
Air gap doesn't reset the electronics inside the module.