I installed a GE motion sensor/dimmer switch in my kitchen, then realized that the LED light it drives can't handle dimming - it's just all on or off.
Is there a way to configure the device to instantly turn on and off? I'd like to do this now so I don't ruin anything.
Also, is there something I can do with my light down the road like get something that converts my GE switch's 120V AC to 0-10V DC and allow me to dim?
Maybe, but nothing "off the shelf" - you would have to engineer something. And note that it wouldn't likely meet fire code, so you're on your own if it burns down your house. 
Would this work?
This works great! Turning on and off from the dashboard doesn't instantly turn on or off, but everything else works! I can have it come on it if instantly with motion in occupancy mode or if someone hits the switch.
It also gave me the ability to set the default level of another switch off the same type that drives actual dimmable bulbs - 100% in daytime, 25% in evening, 3% at night.
I really appreciate it, great driver!
Any suggestions for dimmable flat panels? I feel like I could keep the current setup but would rather get something that actually dims, or maybe replace the dimmer with a switch.
No, that won't work. Thanks for the suggestion, though
Jason - just doing a quick search it looks like this is compatible with AC dimmers: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Armacost-Lighting-45-Watt-LED-Power-Supply-Dimmable-Driver-R840450/207158792
Thoughts?
Would probably work on raw led s... If your can/panel ones have a voltage converter or driver built into them (very likely as I don't think the LEDs are 110v...), then it still wouldn't work without you getting into the guts if the panel and taking that driver out of the loop.
Without significant modification work you're probably out of luck getting these to dim.
But maybe someone else will chime in with another idea I have thought of?
I really apprecaite all the help - and the driver!
The panel has AC and DC hookups. I think I can just feed AC to the aftermarket dimmer I linked, then hook up that output to the DC. May be worth a shot since it's a few bucks and a few minutes. I think I just convinced myself...
Ah! Yes, that sounds like it would work.
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