Hi @marktheknife, thanks for the help. Between the time I posted and the time you replied I was able to get them to include by excluding them with my Aeotec Z-Stick (love that thing) and running the Hubitat inclusion and waiting about 20 minutes for each.
This Hubitat takes forever to include Z-Wave Devices and its a real pain having to bring the hub and laptop around the house to add them. With the Z-Stick I was able to walk around my house and within 15 minutes have 70+ devices included.
Hey all,
Anyone seeing issues with ZWave repair with these devices?
I have 8 on my Ring system and they are telling me that they can't be part of a ZWave repair because they do not support the wakeup command class.
My signal strength to 2 in particular is out of range yet they are within 8 feet of the base station
Thanks in advance
Rick
Z wave repair doesn't repair battery devices unless you wake up them in the correct moment(very difficult). My suggestion is to exclude them and then pair them in its final location, getting the ring extender is not a bad idea by the way.
Question on the detectors. I use a CO detector in my garage to ensure Iāve left the garage door open long enough to air out after starting my garden tractor. No lectures on CO safety please, I know it already 
My existing detector has to be moved outside or it will go off immediately after I start my tractor. Ideal scenario I can control a detector to say ādonāt alarm if the garage door is openā. Can these alarms be ādisabledā or will they always alarm on CO
The Detector will set off the internal buzzer regardless of it's pairing to a hub or not. I am not sure how f there is a parameter to disable the buzzer but you can download the manual and uave a look.
I seriously doubt it, because it wouldnāt meet independent testing lab certifications (like UL) if it were possible to remotely disable the CO detector.
Yea, which is completely understandable. If only I could find an AC powered detector that doesn't have a battery backup, I could put it on a smart outlet and be done with it. On the unit I have, if I pull the battery out and run it on AC it chirps every minute or so, and I have a feeling alot of them are designed like that
You are not going to find a fire safety device without backup power. It's there for safety reason.
AC powered smoke detectors are generally (if not all) hardwired directly to the wiring inside a junction box, not plugged in to a receptacle. The smart outlet is unlikely to help. You can find CO detectors that plug in to receptacles, but those are generally not the kind of alarm you'd ignore as a nuisance alarm. 
Agreed. @liquidskin you are presumably a smart enough guy to weigh the pros and cons of the various stuff youāve mentioned so far and make a decision that makes sense for you and your family.
But safety certification labs like UL, and life safety device manufacturers like first alert have to take into account the dumber-than-average-bear consumers that will end up killing themselves or others if they donāt take such precautions with these devices.
It sucks to have to do a hack approach, but I get it when these devices serve one purpose: to save lives. Iām in a weird spot because Iām taking it further than the average joe would. Iāve had a CO incident before and the detectors were the saviors. I hope I can find a solution that fits my needs.
Maybe hook up a fan. Garage door open and motion active = turn on fan.
That could work. If the CO detector is behind the fan, it may keep the detector from alarming. Only thing Id have to deal with is the fan going off regardless of whether I'm starting the engine or not. Depending on what I'm doing in the garage, I may not want it to come on. Of course could switch it off but who wants to deal with that
Put a contact sensor with external contact to a dry contact relay so when the engine is on. The contact closes.
How does the Aeotec usb stick work? How does it help to pair devices?
Noticing this thread reminded me that I have one of these sitting on a shelf with the batteries pulled? Why? Not because of any Hubitat problem or pairing issue; that's fine. On a random schedule, but approximately once per quarter, it would mistakenly complain about its batteries. Of course, this was always in the middle of the night.
I have other hard-wired non-connected old-fashioned smoke sensors, so the house has a backup. I was thinking about trying to disable the internal "chirper" in the First Alert and relying upon a Hubitat alarm to respond to any detected issues.
Any better approaches?
@CAL.hub are your detectors inter-wired? If they are, there are relay modules that can be attached to one end of the connection that can then operate a zigbee or zwave door window sensor.
The Ecolink firefighter device has worked very well for me. Itās an acoustic sensor that installs next to one of your existing, dumb detectors (within like 6ā IIRC). It listens for a smoke or CO alarm pattern (which is standardized by UL, in the US at least), and shows up as a z-wave smoke/CO detector in hubitat.
If your hardwired detectors are interconnected, you could get by with just one of the firefighter devices for notification purposes from your Hubitat hub. Or by springing for one next to each hardwired detector, you would then be able to determine which one of your smokes was actually set off.
Adding a relay module and a z-wave contact sensor (that accepts external inputs) like @zarthan mentioned is another good option.
IMHO, opening up a smoke detector to physically disable any component of it is a bad option.
If you have Echo devices, one other option might be enable Alexa guard. It can listen for breaking glass and smoke alarm sounds.
Is there any advantage of this driver over the āGeneric Z-wave Smoke/CO detectorā?
Download the Hubitat app
