Did you ever get someone to solder it for you? I can if you want to ship it to me.
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I did - local "TV" repair guy. Who knew they still existed?
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Looking for an advice from "antenna guys".
I read that the direction of the antenna can effect the antenna performance.
So, acording to this, I places my external antenna vertically.
Now, it seems logical that in case the end device has an antenna that can be posisioned vertically, this should be the direction to put it.
Most of my Z-wave devices are in wall Fibaro siwitches like this one:
Do you think posisioning the antenna in the wall vertically might help?
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Well, in the interests of science I also ordered a 5db antenna (the L-com HG905RD-1-RSP), and swapped out the 3db one Thursday evening. With 71 total Z-wave devices I started out with 31 of them having a direct connection; the 3db antenna stabilized with 48 direct, and after about 30 hours the 5db antenna now has 56 direct connections.
Perhaps more significantly, all devices are now connected at their maximum supported speed (whether 100kbps or 40kbps),
The 3db antenna made a huge qualitative improvement - I can't say the perceived performance is any better so far with the 5db one, but the numbers certainly are (which may also translate to better reliability).
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What had to have improved is alternative paths. One of your devices that didn't have a direct connection option now does have that option and thus whatever path it was using before, is still available as an alternate. And equally true, it's a better router choice in any other device's visibility. In other words, a device that now has a direct connection is able to be a better router to the 11 devices that needs a router in your system.
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I have separate Zwave and Zigbee hubs and installed an external antenna on each. Zwave has been in place for 3 days and what a difference. Like others I had a good mesh though occasional switch wouldn’t turn off at night when I shut down the house as the mesh is busy with a foood of off commands. But what motivated me was constant changes where a switch would be 100k one day and 9.6 the next and slower to respond.
Before (morning of 11/18) 31 of 79 direct:
Today (evening of 11/20) 54 of 79 direct and 74 at 100k:
I just setup my Zigbee hub today with an external antenna and have definite improvements. I was using a C4 with external stick before and had to use an Xbee with an old router highgain antenna to reach my mailbox and other far places. Today I added an external antenna to a new C7 and restored the C4 backup to it and then rejoined all the Zigbee devices. I purposely didn’t pair my Xbee to see if my mailbox contact sensor would behave and it paired immediately. This was one of the last devices I paired to ensure I had a good mesh. I did run a few tests prior to cutting everything over with a contact sensor in my hand walking around my house and yard to confirm it’s reach.
I couldn’t be happier with these results.
@erktrek you motivated me to retire my C4 hubs after hearing about your failed hubs. My Zigbee hub has been acting weird lately so this motivated me to do all of this. Why not improve antennas when moving hubs 
. I had 3 in production and retired my last today, though still use my C3 for development and testing. What’s also interesting is the pesky MS6’s have always stayed at 9.6k prior, now they are both 100k paired direct. Really hoping the MS7 is better.
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Curious your results. Is your mesh behaving better now?
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Can I ask for a step by step on how you did the above ??
I also am in a very similar situation with some Zwave devices that are S0 and I'd really like them to be S-None.
I have discussed the Replace operation before in this community and from a high level overview, that's what I did. Replace is almost identical to an Include, but the hub reuses an existing address instead of assigning the Next sequential.
For S2 devices, this method is not necessary, these instructions are for S0 devices that the C-7 will not offer the popup to choose "Skip". For C-3..5, this isn't needed, it's specifically a C-7 + non-S2 capable device that automatically joins as S0, no option. The 'trick' here is to take the existing Included device and get it "factory fresh" without the ZWave network knowing. I have plenty of equipment to do this, including other hubs and additional Aeon Z-Sticks (with their battery and button to Include or Exclude. It also has a button inside on the back to reset it and thus quite purposefully not be on the target network.)
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Step 1) Using an Aeon Z-Stick that is NOT included in the ZWave network, put it into Exclude (blinking orange) and put the S0 device into Include/Exclude. The S0 device will be reset and the ZWave network will not be notified. This creates what we'd call a ghost in other circumstances
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Step 2) Using the Hub's ZWave Details, click Refresh until the Replace option shows. But ignore it. A replace done on the Hub will put it back as S0.
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Step 3) On PC Controller, select the S0 device and click "Is Failed?" Sometimes it takes multiple attempts but eventually it will be red, indicating it's in the Failed Device list.
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Step 4) On PC Controller, click "Replace Failed" and then put the target device into Include. They will converse and will re-join as S-none.
In my case, both the S0 devices were Recessed Door Sensors and there's a very simple button click to get them to go into Include/Exclude. It is a battery device so it goes to sleep rapidly and the Include process seems to need it to be awake a couple of times. I had to click the little button through the tiny hole with a paper click a couple of times to get it to finish the Include. If I hold the button down for 8 seconds it stays awake for 20 seconds, but will go to sleep instantly if the Controller says it can. Thus I just clicked it quickly to wake it for a short time until I saw that PC Controller found the device.
I mention all that to highlight the need to be familiar with the "Include dance" that manufacturers force on us. In my case the paper clip is easy enough, but I had to be aware of it going to sleep too. If the dance was 3 on-off cycles in 4 seconds or something similar, it might have gotten quite frustrating.
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Will have to try that!
Here's the way I've done it:
- Rename the DNI of the original device by appending some chars at the end.
- Using stick connected to the hub, exclude by doing an NWE OR use HE to do a general exclude (DO NOT REMOVE EXISTING DEVICE!).
- Re-include the usual PCS way (any device) OR use the Hub to include (for "non-S0 problematic" devices only!).
- When it pops up on the hub, rename the new device's DNI by appending some chars at the end. Note: sometimes the device just appears, other times I have to reboot the hub or go into pairing mode. If you've used the Hub to include then the device should just be there.
- Rename the DNI of the original device to the new device's "real" DNI (no appended chars).
- Remove the leftover "new" device..
I should note that this can be done without using a stick for non problematic devices.. though if you encounter a problem the stick is usually very helpful in getting things resolved.
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Brilliant!
Good point and one I assumed. I should have been more specific... I've edited my message.
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I only did the Zigbee - so I don't have mesh stats like the ZWave folks. I still have issues reaching my mailbox (which is only 50 feet from the hub). I switched from the ST v4 motion sensor to a Centralite one and it seems to connect fine - but it gives a LOT of false motion alerts - not loving it. I tried one of my NYCE sensors and they lose connectivity as soon as the mailbox is closed (same as ST v4).
Everything else appears working well.
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Don’t want to take this thread off topic but have you considered a contact sensor instead? I have an Iris v2 mounted under my mailbox and then a small round rare earth magnet on the door. Has worked great for 2.5 years.
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I second this for a contact sensor instead of a motion sensor. The eco2.5's can be remote wired such that you can relocate the sensor outside the mailbox and wire up a cheap magnetic contact from an alarm system. Then just waterproof the sensor and mount it to the bottom of the mailbox. Use some uv resistant wire for connecting them so it doesn't degrade in the sunlight.
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Yeah, if it were my box... but it's a cluster box 
What's the benefit of a contact sensor over a motion sensor? The issue I keep running into is mostly Zigbee signal getting blocked from being inside the box. It is working now - but this new sensor has a lot of falsies.
Motion won't report mailbox left open reliably where contact will. In use the smart sense v3 multi. I is about 80' from house. I.do.have a zigbee switch to. Repeat in the garage.
Just placement for signal propagation I imagine. I would be inclined to try a Hue motion sensor. They take regular AAA batteries and have adjustable sensitivity and retrigger time.
hue motion are too big for a mailbox in general..
