Okay, that fixed the syncing issue (finally says "Synced"), and somehow fixed the light turning off right after turning it on from the dumb switch in SB1. The last remaining issue is that the dumb switch in SB2 still doesn't do anything at all. Weird!
Wiring looks OK to me. You could try changing the impulse delay although I am not sure exactly what it does... Maybe try a lower value and a little higher to see if that changes anything?
Turns out that my relay was in a pending state as well. I set the logs to debug and saw the same warning that @usn.mustanger had, so I followed your instruction to set #24 to 0 manually and now I'm synced.
Okay, after fixing the sync issue earlier and getting the op test results I posted about earlier, I went to the gym, only to come back and find that the hub has lost contact with the relay again. Lights didn't come on at sunset like they were supposed to, and I couldn't toggle them from the hub or the dumb switch. Tried Z-Wave repair, and the node fails.
I'm going to cycle the breaker tomorrow, unpair, factory reset, and repair in LR mode (using Smart Start) to see if it's a range issue. It's not currently in LR mode due to some early troubleshooting of pairing issues -- tech support had me pair in normal mesh mode, which worked.
If that doesn't resolve all of my issues, I'm going to have to send this one back and figure something else out. I simply don't have the time to constantly fiddle with this stuff, and daily breaker cycling is not an option.
I noticed Zooz just put out 1.80 f/w for the Zen51/52.
I just successfully updated my Z51, and everything seems great except that the LED no longer comes on with the relay. I even tried juggling that parameter to see if that would shake it loose - no joy.
I'll contact Zooz about it and follow up here with any results.
I know a few people who wanted this separation feature but now it is probably going to be basically like a mini ZEN16 making the driver more complicated. Yay.
If Hubitat had dynamic capabilities I could probably make one universal driver that scans and detects every option on any device and then sets it all up accordingly. But it doesn't, so here we are.
I have my Zooz17 controlling my front gate. Open/Close with R1 and Close Sensor on S1. I have added a "door bell" at the gate (momentary button) how do I access S2 with the 17 being set up as a garage door? I can hear it clicking when I hit the button but can't figure out how to add another Child Sensor. Thanks!
For the newer relays Any time you change the input settings to a sensor setting you need to exclude and include the device again. I think this applies to input setting 4 and up? What are your input settings?
Easy way might be to set the input type to 0 as you have. You should get a status update on on the main R2 child where it will change to ON then back OFF when you let go of the button. You could also try input types 2 or 3 as well to see which works best. You may need to change the input trigger 2 (11) to YES (1). If nothing is connected to R2 this is harmless other than the clicking noise of the relay closing. This you can change and should work without excluding the device.
If you really want a sensor child you have to use input types 4+. You will want to set S2 input to option 10. That will create the child and it may work with just a power cycle of the ZEN17. If that does not work you would have to exclude and include again to get i to work correctly.
@bill.d curious if you're still experiencing this. I continue to have it happen. It's infrequent, but it does keep happening. Have you (or others) continued to experience this and any luck finding a solution?
And wondering if the Zooz folks know about the issue?
I noticed my zen51 shed light on this am, it is in the yard probably 60 ft from my house and hub. Looked at the logs and found lots of button pushes. Hit configure and they have since stopped. Have also in the past at times seen this switch not respond to the physical light switch flipped on or off but would work from device or app pages. Outside temp was 44, seems like it is cooler out when the physical switch will not control it?