Hey all,
New here and wanted to start by saying thank you so much for all the help. These forums have amazing stuff and have been really helpful to date.
One thing I am looking at solving is having my HE integrate with the my front door striker.
I would like to replace my video intercom and wanted to have the wired sticker connected to a smart device that sends the necessary volts to unlock the front door..I don't suppose the current solution is anything but sending volts for a few seconds to enable the latch to open. If so surely I can place a fibaro implant or something to do this for me via remote fob or switch I can place around the house etc..
Seems like the best way would be to add a z-wave or zigbee relay module. Many options available, search Amazon for z-wave relay. Depending on how your striker is currently wired, you may be able to just switch out an existing relay for a z-wave or zigbee connected relay.
Many of these modules are designed to add control to legacy light switches, and you can find ones that are line voltage or low voltage powered depending on your specific requirement. Here are some examples:
As you say the Fibaro Implant would be worth looking at - I use these for a couple of things. You just need to check first that the outputs on the implant are ok for the voltage and current draw of the strike. You'll also need a DC supply for the implant. You can always switch that DC voltage through the output to an additional relay to keep the strike voltage isolated (you don't mention what voltage the strike is, whether it's AC/DC, and whether it is power to lock or power to unlock)
The community driver on here will allow you to set an auto off timer for the output - so that the voltage is only applied/removed for a couple of seconds after the switch is activated. The two inputs on the implant could be used for both a wired door contact and maybe a wired switch (push to egress)
Most door strike plates are 12v DC, I have used a Qubino Z-Wave Plus Flush 2 Relay Module to do this, you need to make sure the power supply provides enough watts though if you also power the relay via that same power supply. I also have a few strike plates in different locations wired directly to relays on Konnected.io boards which just act a a temporary switch like a garage door button and the Konnected board interfaces to Hubitat to make the switch available on the dashboard. I went with the Konnected boards in those locations because I had door, motion, and temp sensors I wanted in those locations too and wanted to eliminate some battery devices.
If you need to open and close a contact on a 12V DC circuit, another option is the Shelly 1.
Although it's Wi-Fi, Shelly is supported by HE with built-in drivers.
Thank you all. I am just making some small modifications to the home before I move. It's a blessing and a curse..
The current solution is there a two video intercom panels wired to power supply and door. I would like to delete one intercomm panel and have it replaced with a device powered by zwave to unlock the door (objective is to have it unlocked via fob, dashboard or button) its a 12v dc striker with power to unlock. There is currently no power at the home and it's locked so I have assumed power is needed to unlock.
I'd like to keep one intercom panel upstairs to open door/talk/view guest, and use the wiring downstairs to connect to a relay if possible. Eventually I'd like to have a remote so that from my camera notification, I can unlock the door via fob or remote button without having to goto the intercom panel and press unlock. @Terk@johnwill1@Ranchitat@demillerusn
Hope that helps give you a view as to what I'm facing. My electrician is happy to wire what ever I give him but unfortunately isn't up to speed with zwave or zigbee solutions
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