Yes you will need the pro hub 2. HE controls it via Telnet. Lightning fast. It's very low power but Lutron switches just don't fail. It also gives you access to PICO's I haven't changed batteries in any of mine for 10 years (literally have a few that are 12 years old that I haven't changed)
I also agree completely for a rock solid reliable system. While the Lutron switches may be more expensive per switch compared to some cheaper available z-wave or zigbee in wall switches, this appears to be a very small house with few rooms so the total cost differential of your entire built-out will be relatively small. Also, this allows great flexibility with the use of picos. Great advice from @rlithgow1 and @silverton38 !
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Sold on good advice! Lutron wall switches.
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Thank you, this is a done deal. Lutron wall switches. Now must figure out the other items.
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Pico's too! Only $15.00 and they can fit in wall plates so they're indistinguishable from a regular switch or can be mounted on a pedestal..
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Ditto on Lutron. No one will claim it is a "lower cost option" but it is SO worth it. For those fans I would hard wire the fans to a switchbox and then use a Lutron fan switch 
There's another thread where someone is asking similar questions about new construction. You might want to check that out. It's an interesting discussion.
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Yes his thread is GREAT; however his client has DEEP pockets, which is why I asked same only different. 
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Yeah good point. At the very least though I think you're skimping on ethernet drops
Yes, GREAT stuff in @silverton38 ’s thread that should be considered no matter the budget, big or limited, so anyone with the fortunate circumstance of being able to do this from scratch goes into this very educated. When I started with DIY home automation (geez, its been about 35 years ago now) I did not even know enough to know what to ask. I became a noob again when I started with Hubitat two years ago! Can’t overemphasize how great a community this is.
I figure Lutron Dimmer would handle the 6" LED (circles in kitchen and living) due to 110vac.
Will Lutron do this for white only LED strips?
ON/OFF with dimmer for under cabinet kitchen and living room (square around the fan is a 18" alcove with strip around perimeter).
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I have 9 allocated and could definitely pull more until my BOX of wire runs out.
THIS, THIS and THIS! While everything is opened up, it is so easy to make multiple drops, at least one each wall and multiple jacks at each location (just like what is usually done by code for AC outlets). Of course, need to keep Cat and other low voltage cabling away from (aways) and non-parallel (when possible) to mains but with so many mains powered devices going IOT, even if you don’t terminate the ethernet (in order to save some bucks) the cabling should be there with a low voltage box and cover so you can easily access later so you do not regret not having ethernet near an outlet later). Given I’ve done retrofits on all my previous homes (I never had the pleasure of starting a build from scratch) I can’t tell you how many times I had to hassle adding more ethernet jacks where they were not originally anticipated to be needed when I originally dropped the wiring. Again, additional marginal cost is relatively low compared to the potential hassle later.
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@Stinger I would also pull for POE AP's mounted to the ceiling,. I reccomend Unifi AP-AC Pro's. They look like smoke alarms so fit in well. Put a few of those around (including in the back of the house on the exterior to broadcast to your yard). You won't be unhappy
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I have to agree with that. Also the switches are made to last. Hubitat communicates with them beautifully.
Yes. You must get the HUB PRO to work with Hubitat. It is worth every penny. Lutron is also HomeKit compatible as a bonus. If you need blinds consider Lutron Serena Blinds which also works with the Hub Pro.
You can also buy switches that include Picos for almost the same price as the switch. You can use Pico's for 3 ways on the wall and remotes off the wall.
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Lutron Caseta with a Hub Pro is a very reasonably priced solution. Not much more then Zigbee or Z-wave but they are so much more reliable and very high quality.
Crazy old wiring.
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hydronic ? w/ solar heated water ?
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under a 4x8 sheeting and then wood flooring on top of that?
Just asking because ...while #1 can produce some incredible heat, and I mean incredible,
the heat transfer in #2
(even with those really hard to retrofit metal support tray reflectors for the PEX)
has foiled many a project expectation and caused folk to add an efficient wood burning stove to augment the coldest nights off grid.
If #1 is still in your mind (like it is mine due to the incredible heat available) then I'd suggest the new rendition of radiators they make these days. Your heated water wouldn't have to travel nearly as far through less efficient transfer mediums and while you may have some "cold spots" I think overall you'd see a better outcome.
For clarification, of course "water" doesn't mean pure water.
