Dividing a lighting circuit

I have a switch that controls two lights, and I'd like to control them separately. They're exterior and will be operated entirely through automation with no need for manual control.

Is there a relay I can use that will allow me to connect one of them directly to the hot without going through the switch so that I can automate that light to function separately from the other one? It seems like the wiring diagrams for the Zooz zen51 and zen52 require the switch to still be connected.

The fixtures are integrated LED fixtures so a smart bulb is not an option.

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Puck style controllers are an option. Shelly and the various other types. Wifi, Matter, zigbee zwave... You would put these in the junction box at each fixture and then leave the switch on.

My question is more that I'd like to bypass the switch entirely. I want the switch to control one light and remove the other light from it so that I can automate it separately. But maybe I'm just misunderstanding the approach.

Well, since the current manual switch controls the whole circuit when you toggle it the power to both lights is off. So you put the pucks in both light junction boxes and hot wire them or bypass the switch. You can put a smart switch in the original switch location and program it to toggle the light through the pucks. If done right you can control both of them.

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If the only hot at both fixtures is the (switched) load wire from the switch, then you'd need to hard-wire line and load in the switch box to provide constant line power to both fixtures.

Then wire in relays (one at each fixture) and use a smart switch as a no-load scene controller to manage the one or both relays.

Do you have a neutral in that switch box? You would need one for this to work.

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Yea, I have a neutral in the box, they're currently both connected to a GE Enbrighten smart switch.

So if I use something like a Zen51, would I just connect both the S1 and IN terminals to the hot directly so that it reads the switch as always on? Then program it to work however I want?

Once the old load-hot wire is hardwired to be constantly hot (a smart switch with smart-bulb mode could do accomplish that too), then with respect to any relay wiring diagrams, you'd just treat that wire as the line-hot.

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That makes sense. I verified with Zooz that I can use a Zen52 with a single switch and just cap off the S2 lead. So I'm going to pull out the smart switch, but a dumb one back in, and then connect the Zen to both loads so that they can be automated separately.

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