Discussion about the C7

There are 8 in one room if one goes bad you just replace the downlight which costs a bit more that a LED bulb and should last 20 years. This is the version I had dimmer issues with on the Honeywell dimmers from Costco:

Commercial Electric 5/6 in. Color Temperature Selectable Integrated LED Recessed Trim (4-Pack)-NS01cA09FR2-259 - The Home Depot

Here are the slim ones that are just discs:

Commercial Electric Ultra Slim 6 in. Color Selectable New Construction and Remodel Canless Recessed Integrated LED Kit (4-Pack)-91478 - The Home Depot

Thought for a second that doesn't seem to difficult to change out. Reality hit me though, I have 18Ft tall ceilings in my Livingroom. It is easy to change the lights with the bulb replacement pole we have. I am sure they are nice in other areas though.

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Just curious...the controller that comes w/them to set color temperature. How do you access that - it looks like the cord is very short, can't see how it could be placed in a reachable area. And they are all controlled separately, correct? So set them all during install and leave it that way, or ?

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When the electrician did the install I asked that he set two of the 8 in the room to 3,000 k along with wall where the couch is and the other 6 to 2,700 k for warm lighting. They were set and forget. I know there are ways to bring the controller down into the living area but I haven't investigated that.

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I had switched to the HE for Aeotec MS6 driver recently (was still on 2.2.2.129 on C-5). It was working fine and then I upgraded to 2.2.4.158 a couple of days ago. Yesterday I noticed that I was getting reports every minute (battery, illuminance, humidity etc.).


I switched to the driver by @syepes (I think) and I was able to reduce the reporting to an acceptable amount. Did you see anything like this?

I went ahead and looked at mine on my C-7 fw .158.. my back deck sensor is on the system driver and seems okay. I originally had csteele's and switched back but cannot remember if I hit "configure" or not.

EDIT: My other one in the basement is very quiet as well. Both of these are USB powered.

Mine is USB powered as well - quiet now once I switched drivers.

I had the same and I too cannot remember if I hit configure or not. What I'm sure about is that the report every minute started after updating to 2.2.4.158 (there are no battery entries in my database before that), so maybe the update reset something? Anyway, it's all good now with the new driver...

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Mine all look normal.

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How is everyone liking 2.2.5.124? I am still on 2.2.4.158 and the only real issue I've seen is that the z wave radio locks up every few weeks, requiring a hard power down to resolve. I thought Bobby or someone mentioned that the zwave radio lockups were going to be fixed in a future firmware upgrade - does anyone know if it was resolved in this release?

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I've have 3 C-7s (in separate locations/systems) that I've updated and they seem to be working so far but it's really too early to tell.

I have noticed a few Zigbee devices becoming unresponsive every so often with a C-5 but that's been since the 2.5.xxx firmware not necessarily this latest one. There are many factors at play though and I probably need to investigate further but it hasn't been a major issue yet.

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Normally my c5 z-wave locks after a update but still going strong, I've all tried a few thing which sometimes causes it to lock and its past that test. Only need to do a z-wave repair to finally test but looking good.

Zigbee has gone a bit funny, sonoff button dropped off and a humidity sensor went from 90% to 0 in a few days but seems to be settling

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I just found time to start digging into a randoms/performance issue after replacing yet another failed Zooz switch, and see my 5 Iris plugs' z-wave repeaters have disgusting response times.

Seems these are now problematic wit the C7?

I'm using shackrat's driver and they now don't want to run interrogate or anything else. Oddly they show offline in the device but OK in the Z-wave mesh app.

Are these the 3210-L models? We have seen numerous reports of issues caused by these devices when they are included as Z-Wave repeaters. I recommend excluding them if you are having Z-Wave mesh issues.

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I have several of these in operation and can confirm they work fine if you do not use the Z-Wave repeater capability.

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I have 16 of them in my home and they work great as Zigbee outlets. Learned the hard way that they are not good as Z-Wave repeaters.

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LOL, the seem to be just fine on my C-3 :cowboy_hat_face:

You should play the lottery, it sounds like you have some pretty good odds :slight_smile:

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Yes, 3210-L.

They worked fine on the C5, I will go ahead and exclude them.

I was able to exclude these, only 2 of the 5 would go into exclusion locally (fast blink) and drop without a force remove.

For the two that I was able to put into exclusion mode, I did: Unplug, re-plug. Press button on/off, then press RAPIDLY 8 times without tripping the relay and the LED blinks fast.

All 5 are now pending in the Z-wave Details page. Remove/refresh doesn't seem to help.

I know in the past, I've had to use my Z-wave stick for force exclude and remove a device completely. Is there a nightly maintenance that will drop these? The last switch that died wouldn't budge from pending for days until I used a stick to remove it.

That is the lesson I learned the "hard way" that I mentioned earlier. They stick around and don't want to be removed creating havoc in your mesh until you get rid of them.

In 7 years, I didn't have to use a stick to remove ghosts or bad devices, so I know it's possible to remove them, it just takes perseverance.