There are words like "fire" and "explosion" in that article.
Looks like I need to figure out how to put the leak sensors on power. The Tuya seems like the likely target, as the sensor and the body are already separated so I wouldn't have to do any modding other than getting power to the body...don't want to run power to a leak sensor like the Samsung where the body is sitting in the water if there is a leak.
OK - so now you've done and created more work for you. I'll need five potential sources for info on modding a battery-device to take direct power. STAT!
So if I go w/option one, since the CR2 is a 3v battery, it's a simple as selecting the 3v version of the Battery Eliminator (sounds pretty scary, if you're a battery).
I have actually thought up a cleverer (and likely stupider) option...there is a closet directly below where I have the body portion of the Tuya sensor sitting in the attic. The Tuya body is connected to the sensor via a long 3.5mm audio extension cable.
I could drill a small hole down from the attic through the wallboard in the ceiling of the closet, pass the cable through the hole, and then connect it to the body of the Tuya sensor in the closet. Battery never gets too hot, don't have to do any re-wiring in the attic.
Crazy like a fox, or are you getting out the meds?
I actually have 4 of these: service entrance outside my townhouse, sub-panel (inside house), furnace/air-handler, outdoor heat-pump compressor.
While these won't protect against a direct lightning strike, they will protect somewhat against indirect strikes and surges caused by malfunctioning motors/compressors in the house.
Seems a lot simpler to just live where lightning is very uncommom.
Actually, with rising humidity (the horror!) in SoCal we actually had some thunderstorms last year. They were a treat to watch/listen to (missed them from my youth in VA) but they do bring additional risks. Luckily we're in a single story ranch, and the neighbor on one side has a two-story, and the neighbor on the other side is up a hill from us, so pretty sure any nearby strikes will target either of them over us.
True. However, most electrical surges in homes are generated within the house, typically by (malfunctioning) motors. The bulk of the work that surge protectors do is to protect against these mini-surges.
Although there's no doubt that areas prone to lightning strikes are at higher risk.
Lighting is sneaky. A lightning strike to a utility pole down the street got me a number of years ago. Among other things my sprinkler controller was fried. I can't be sure but I think that the surge followed the wires to my sprinkler valves when the wet ground was energized and entered the house wiring that way. I did not have my TV on a surge protector. It also got the electronics in my oven.
Several years ago, probably 2006-2007, lightning struck an oak tree right outside my house. Fried my neighbors A/C compressor, fridge and a couple other things. Only took out a TV and DVD player in my house.
I don't understand why all that energy went 30 feet across the street in place of 10 feet to my house.
We added a downstairs master to our house 5 years ago and our electrician noticed the copper water line coming into the crawl space wasn’t grounded properly. The ground wire was attached at the back of the house by the original electrician.
He had to get this up to code to pass his inspection and ran a thick ground wire to the front of the house where the copper water line entered the crawl space and ran that to the back of the house to the power meter ground.
To @rlithgow1’s point, something to think about if you have copper water lines and make sure your are grounded in the crawl/basement as they enter your dwelling.
