Longtime lurker here... I have a C7 with ~15 Zigbee devices throughout the home. I'm now looking to replace a switch for an outdoor outlet, which "lives" in a gang (4 units) wall box/plate. The thing is, being an outdoor outlet, this is a GFCI-protected circuit, and for this particular switch, I only have access to the "live" (from the GFCI, which is installed elsewhere) and the "load" to the outlet (I assume the neutral from the outlet goes back to the GFCI, otherwise the GFCI would always trip.)
A normal Zigbee in-wall switch requires neutral, so I can't just use the neutral from another circuit in the gang, because the GFCI would trip. The only way this can work is to use a dry contact (between the original "live" and "load" lines), and power a Zigbee switch using an available "line/neutral" supply in the gang box.
There are several options, but the closest to what I need is a Z-Wave device, a Remotec ZFM-80US. However, I'm wondering if anybody manufactures a Zigbee Decora style switch, which accepts line/neutral to power itself, but offers a dry contact output (instead of just switching the line to the load side.)
EDIT: When I say "Decora style", I mean one with a normal toggle switch on it, not the "button" you see on the Remotec unit.
I don't know if this is physically possible for your installation......
Two Z-Wave switches**, at least one with a relay output.
Install the switch with the relay output at the GFI to control your outlet.
Permanently short the line in - Load at the current switch box.
Now the outlet is controlled by the switch at the GFI
Install another Z-Wave switch were you original switch was, however power it from one of the other circuits and connect nothing to the switch output. Set the switch to Associate to the switch in the GFI location.
Now because Z-Wave association does not go through the hub, switching the switch in the original location will instantly switch the switch at the GFI.
Both can be controlled by Hubitat.
** I don't know of any way ZigBee switches can be associated.
The Aeotec Nano Switch is a better variation of what you are suggesting. I would install the Nano switch (as a dry contact) inside the gang box to control the line-load connection, and keep the current Decora switch and wire it as a switch input to the Nano Switch. However, the Nano Switch seems to be out of stock. I'd also use the NodOn Multifunction Relay Switch, but that's currently only available as a 240V/50 Hz device, so not usable here...
I was hoping someone made a Decora device that integrated the dry contact solution, as opposed as to having to install 2 devices to achieve the objective.
OK but the Aeotec requires a neutral so I'm not sure how you would wire it. You could put the Aeotec nano at the GFI if you wanted but I don't know if the Nano supports association.
I know I need a neutral to supply the Zigbee device, which is the point of wanting a 120V/15A rated dry contact that will control the outlets.
The "neutral not required" devices are mostly dimmers (at least, from what I've seen), because they "vampire" power off the TRIAC's output leakage current, which is also why you need min. loads (i.e. and they sell "bypass" caps to install at the load if the load is too small to provide enough leakage.) Also, the "neutral not required" devices I've seen so far a mostly (if not all) Z-Wave devices, which I'm not familiar with, I only have a Zigbee populated mesh network. The Line and P Line (Protected Line) are 2 different circuits, see below.
I looked again at the Nano. It may have isolated output contacts. I would have to see more info on the Nano and perhaps ask Aeotek if the output "contacts" are indeed isolated from the input line. If so your plan to use it is likely the best (if you can fit it into the gang box).
