in order to test that you have to unlock the door. then wait for it to lock. is that how you tested? or did you just have the door unlocked and expected it lock? want to make sure your testing the correct way.
Yes, of course, the door was locked, then I unlocked it and waited. Nothing happens.
Does the lock device page indicate the lock is unlocked when you unlock it?
What kind of lock is it?
Sounds like there may be mesh issues. Try safely shutting down hub from settings and then unplug from the wall for 30 seconds to power down the zwave radio. Turn it back on and wait for the green light and test again.
Do you have any 4-1 sensors or power reporting outlets? Any s0 devices? Any s2 devices? If so what model and firmware?
Are you able to control the lock from the device page?
My rule is nearly identical.
I now work nights (12-hour shifts plus 45-minute commute) so I didn't have a lot of time at home to experiment, but when I got home this morning, I unlocked my office door. It locked itself about 15 minutes later. My house has both an attached garage with a side door leading to the driveway to my detached garage, which I call my office. It too has a side door. I have installed a Z-wave Kwikset lock set on both of these doors. My wife is always getting after me for not locking the doors; she is more paranoid than I about these kind of things. I've been trying to create these controls to make life happier for me (and her).
The problem with the proximity function of my iPhone is that it is not precise enough. This would mean that it would be unlocked at all times my wife or I am home, even when my wife or I are sleeping. I would want the proximity to only be about 3-5 feet at most, this is why I was thinking of some type of RFID or NFC device. Sure, I can type in the combination for the lock or open the app on my phone and hit unlock and have to confirm it, but I'd rather have something faster to unlock but only for my wife or I.
Might try out Auto Lock. It has a ton of options to choose from. Add in wifi presence with iphone wifi presence and something like life360 with states. I just have it unlock on arrival. It relocks after we come in or the pre determined relock time.
Yes, it does. I have a Schlage Z-Wave Plus lock.
Hi, I'm able to control the lock from my dashboard. I have a few of these switches: JASCO Z-Wave Plus Smart Dimmer 1-Outlet Plug-In. They are supposed to work as repeaters as well.
Turn on logging for that rule (events, triggers, actions). Open up the log window and unlock the lock. Then cut and paste a screenshot of the log for that specific rule.
This is what the logs say, it looks as if the Front Door should be locked but it isn't.
app:1232021-02-05 08:14:42.059 am infoAction: Lock: Front Door
app:1232021-02-05 08:14:42.019 am infoDelay Over: Delay 0:05:00
app:1232021-02-05 08:09:41.824 am infoAction: Delay 0:05:00
app:1232021-02-05 08:09:41.732 am infoAuto Lock Front Door - 5 Minutes Triggered
app:1232021-02-05 08:09:41.716 am infoAuto Lock Front Door - 5 Minutes: Front Door lock unlocked
I've found that locks in general are a bit wonky.
To ensure my locks always lock when I want--or unlock when I want...
I either use the "Lockdown" app or I do a loop on my own.
Note that I do something just like that for "Unlocks" as well.
It can take some time for some of the locks to eventually behave. Although, the ZWP/S2 ones by Schlage are notably better than the older S0 ones.
If you ever get a jam that is going to murder your batteries. I'd stick a failed check in there. On fail try maybe two more times then quit.
So far, I've not seen serious issues with the batteries.
Note that it stops issuing lock commands as soon as the device actually locks.
It would seem that, for whatever reason, it can take a number of attempts at sending a command for it to actually get to the lock. If the lock isn't getting a command--hard to see how it might be sucking too much battery juice.
I'd also suspect that the actual movement of the deadbolt is a far higher battery draw than a zwave command.
In any case, i just can't leave the house and have about an 8 in 10 chance that one or more locks will be left unlocked.
Im talking about a case where the door swells and the alignment is off. Sometimes happens during season changes and it receives the lock command attempts to lock and jams therefore not locking and trys again and again even if only 2/3 of the commands go through your still running the deadbolt 60 times. Better solution would be to get commands going to it successfully. I dunno if that's a timing thing or a mesh issue. You'd have to do some analysis on it to find out.
I have a Schlage S0 door lock that is 4 feet in clear air, line of sight to the hub--NOTHING between it and the hub.
The first time I send a command, it's pretty good about responding most times.
But, if I send a second one any time soon, it ignores it--and takes repeated attempts to actually get it sent.
As for the door swelling and getting out of alignment, that's a serious issue that needs fixing. Hopefully, I'd notice that pretty quickly--and I'd certainly FIX it very quickly upon noticing it.
Two of the locks are "lever locks" that have in internal solenoid, so that won't be an issue for those. The other 4 dead bolts could have issues that way.
The 100x loop was for the lever locks. When locking the deadbolts, I use the "Lockdown" app.
If it works for you then all good, just wanted to point out a potential problem I noticed. 8) Locks like to have beaming repeaters, any powered zwave plus device supports beaming if there's a convenient place nearby to stick one it might make your connections more reliable to the lock.
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Here's a good article in regards to why its good to have a repeater even if it's close to the hub.
This is the key takeaway from it though:
Lock manufacturers have to meet two conflicting consumer demands. First, people donāt want to change the batteries In a lock more than once a year. Second, they want the lock to almost instantly respond when someone enters the code or runs an automation. (Basically, no one wants to be standing outside in the rain while they wait for the lock.)
OK, the normal way to extend battery life on a Z wave device is to make the device āsleepy,ā that is, it is inactive most of the time and just wakes up periodically to see if anything is going on. But that doesnāt work for locks, because it would make the wait time Longer than people will tolerate.
So zwave came up with ābeamingā which is A way to have a repeater which is close to the lock hold its messages and re-transmit them the instant that the lock wakes up. Thatās very different than the pony express paradigm. Instead of just trying to get the message from one place to another as quickly as you can by passing it from rider to rider, when the message gets to the last stop before its destination, it is held there, and is soon as that station realizes the lock is awake, they tell them that they have a message waiting. And again, this was optional when it was introduced.
So for Locks, you want to always make sure that the repeater closest to the lock, ideally within 10 or 15 feet of it, supports beaming.
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I have a load of GE/Jasco ZWP (mostly S2) dimmers (and some switches) all over the house. I believe most are capable of beaming, if they are chosen to do so.
Maybe run a repair on the one closest to the lock and a repair on the lock? I can probably convert the universal lock handler also which addresses some of those issues. Nm, I think I paid for that one.. It's one of Rboy's.
I've done various repairs before. It just seems to be the way it is.
My entire house is within ZW or ZWP range with a single hop (or should be), but a few devices manage to take some circuitous routes. However, those locks are all direct to the hub (no repeaters used). Even though they could go out of their way to use one.
