We lost power a few times over the past couple of days, and one of the surges seems to have toasted a ceilng fan, of all things. Fan won't turn on via original remote w/new batteries, both fan and light are totally non-responsive. It's wired hot all the time, so no wall switch involved.
I've never experienced this before, and wondering if this means the fan is toast (main power module dead) or if it's more likely the RF control unit that got burned and I could just replace that. Anyone see this happen before?
Probably the module is fried from power surge. Maybe it's worthwhile if it's an available part or a common fan model/brand. If this is a DC motor then the special controller might not be as easy to replace. Did you try killing power for a few minutes to see if it just needs a reset?
It can either be a good time to replace it, or a bad time. When temperatures rise, fans can be in high demand and prices soar. We bought a nice DC motor fan on Wayfair this spring for $190 CAD, but the original price was $600. We've found you put something in your cart on Wayfair but don't buy it, they often seem to keep dropping the price until you bite. At first I was a little frustrated that the fan could only use its RF remote and special module for the DC motor. This meant I couldn't use my Inovelli LZW36 module. But adding a Broadlink RM4 Pro has worked out well for me and I am still using the LZW36 controller as buttons to control the fan and light via the RM4 Pro and a Homebridge integration. I really like having the indicator lights to show if our doors are locked at night and find that they work well as a gentle path light in the middle of the night. I have them setup to turn off after a few minutes when we're in night mode, but to turn back on temporarily when there's movement in the room.
Thanks...didn't think to try a simple "reboot" by hitting the circuit breaker. I'll try that today after the wife leaves for work. Fun part is I'm not really sure which circuit the fan is on, we have a totally illogical organization of circuits due to previous owner replacing some old wiring (which was good), but at the same time making some odd choices/changes at the time on how circuits/devices are organized.
I spent a day when only I was home and mapped the circuit breakers in an Excel spreadsheet. Has been invaluable when adding smart switches, changing fixtures, etc. Some of the findings were surprising just how many outlets/fixtures are on one breaker (they renovated at one point in this house's short 34 year life). Just under the legal limit.
Did this when I first bought my house (and was single) -- not gonna lie, it was a long day of slogging around, but it has proven invaluable... I've used that resource many many times over the years since! When all done, I printed out nice new labels for my breaker panel -- they obviously aren't as in-depth as my spreadsheet, but are a world better than the previous labelling mess.
A breaker finder can help with your quest. I too always do a full panel relabel/ID when going into a new place. I have several inexpensive breaker finders and they work okay. Several years ago I upgraded to a Zircon Pro finder (purchased used from ebay) and its an amazing tool. Has saved me countless hours and trips up and down steps. Especially when debugging something new/unknown for friends or family.
Yup - I started the process a while back but it was so much fun!! that I didn't finish it. I've got an updated panel "map" partly done, just have to work up the courage to finish it.
Well, bummer, but no quick fix. Circuit flip didn't help.
Wife seemed interested in replacing the fan anyway (about 15 years old), so I'll seek guidance from the DiC ("Designer in Chief") tonight when she gets home.
Oh, and here's the wonderful zaniness of one breaker that I mapped:
Breaker 19:
• Ring Cam Driveway
• Front outside lights
• Living room ceiling fan
• Living room plug by piano
• Living room plug South-East corner
• Kitchen: Cabinet, Ceiling, & Dining lights
• Fam Rm: Lights in front of Ent Cntr
• Office: Ceiling lights
• Hall: Light & HVAC Thermostat
• Utility Room: Light & plug across from dryer
• Garage: All power & lights
Yea, that is screwed-up! Sounds like way too many devices on the same breaker too…
I also did the mapping, I have an Excel file and also a map (Corel draw) of the house with all plugs/switches/etc and an indication of the breaker. Love it!
Sounds like a done deal. I have replaced a dozen or so fans over the past 8 years and almost have a formula for picking them out. Everyone's needs/wants are unique, though. Keep in mind that Hubitat is baking-in support for Smart by Bond.
Im kinda new here but from my experience the fan controller is fried as the motor can take much more power, but even then it has limits. Id go to your local hardware store buy a 200$ fan, install a on off switch unless it is made for gradual speed control. Which will cost more. Then you have to search for a dimmer that can control the load. Now nice thing homeseer sell a leak detector that actually reports temps and there are motion sensors that report temp where you can turn fan on using the temp reporting from these sensors. Now how to program it is for someone more versed then me. This is something I want to set up once my system is stable.
The Homeseer LS100+ leak sensor does send temperature updates, but I'm not sure you'd want to use the data for much. I have a bunch of the LS100+ sensors in use today and they are very good leak sensors (got an alert yesterday in fact when my wife accidently overflowed the kitchen sink a bit) but the placement of a leak sensor is not usually where you would want to gather temperatures for any sort of control behavior. Temperature sensors used for comfort control work best when they are at human height (counter top or so) and not under sinks, under dishwashers (reads captured heat), on concrete floors like near water heaters, etc. For our LS100+'s I disabled all the temperature events as there was no value in them.
Side note if anyone needs any LS100+'s in the US I have a bunch NIB I never deployed. PM if interested.
Code requires all garage outlets to be on GFIC circuit since they can be exposed to outdoor elements. If this breaker powers that entire list including garage outlets that’s crazy.
Ha me too! When we bought this house all the switches and outlets were ivory and wife wanted them all replaced with white. So used that as an excuse for her to help me map the house so I knew which breaker supplied power for each room. It’s been a huge time saver over the years. The electrician “Lights & Rec” labels just didn’t cut it!
Same here. I look at it as a sunk cost. There are so many variables, but my anecdotal experience has been better state tracking using Smart by Bond versus having an additional RF step in between. As always, YMMV
Yeah it's always been a mess since we first moved in.
The plan was that during the last remodel we would get some of the more crazy stuff straightened out, but we were distracted by so many issues and decisions and supply chain problems that I dropped the ball and totally forgot to tell the electricians to take a look and see what they could do to fix some of the more egregious things.
I've got an updated panel "map" partly done, just have to work up the courage to finish it.
