What 240 volt switches are you guys using? As it will be wired in I want a reputable make as I don’t want to risk a fire! Are there any CE approved switches that are compatible with Hubitat?
I'd say a very decent option would be a Xiaomi plug with a plug adapter, since it only has AUS and EU receptacles molded into the case. Those plugs work great and are rather compact. I have one plugged to my A/C and have also tried it for 110V loads.
what exactly do you want to control with it?
i use fibaro dimmers for lights, a fibaro double switch for my main bathroom fan and a qubino double switch for some outdoor flood & mood lights.
Just for some LED lights in a downstairs toilet and maybe the kitchen if cheap enough, I’ll check those out.
They seem a bit pricey. As the feed is in a cupboard it’s cheaper to change the wiring to a socket and use a smart plug.
I'm using Samotech SM308 for switches and SM309 for Trailing edge dimmers.
These are great as you don't have to run new cables down to the existing light switches.
You fit them at the light fitting where the cables comes off to your light switch, just connect your L and N from the light circuit to the SA30x, the output to the existing light and your existing switch return to the +A1 input with a link from N to the -A2 input.
This way you retain existing switching for operating the lights along with zigbee control.
You can use existing switches but you would have to operate the switch on off to turn on, then on off to turn off, so I replaced my switch plates with momentary round push buttons.
They appear well made inside and the 308 switch uses a quality OMRON relay for switching so should be reliable.
For mains outlet sockets, I use AURORA AU-A1ZBDSS, they are not cheap, but you did ask for CE marked and safe.
Also for information, the SAMOTECH PIR SM301Z works well, just add it as a generic Zigbee PIR, it responds immediately and returns to no motion 1 minute after motion stops, plus it runs on 3 x AAA batteries is 6.5 cm x 6.5 cm and 2.9 cm deep when on its mounting clip.
I also have some of those £10 Zigbee OnOff Controllers which are actually quite well made, but use a FANHAR chinese relay, so cant comment on the supposed 10A rating and life expectancy, but good enough for light use, can be hacked for volt free switching by cutting the circuit board out where the mains goes to the relay (I mean physically cutting out part of the board as the mains runs on both sides) and bridging the tracks next to the relay, this way the output is isolated from any mains and the now large gap (Cut out board) will keep any mains or spikes safely away from the output.
I have also got one of the Samotech SM310z motion sensors connected to HE with the generic ZigBee motion driver. Motion works fine, but battery shows 0%, is yours reading battery %age?
Hi, do these work directly with HE?
Not quite yet, there is no full driver for these on HE, so using a generic ZigBee socket driver, only one side works.
For now I am using this fully through Smartthings and using hubconnect to control both sides of the socket from HE through the ST Hub.
I've only started with home automation using ST and HE since Christmas so still very new to this, having to learn groove language and learning all about driver porting and writing for both ST and HE. Doesn't help that documentation is very lacking.
Currently trying to get a Fibaro Relay Switch (1P) to work fully on HE so that I can use it with a security light. The PIR signal is to go to S2 where it reports its status to HE, S1 is a local override which will switch the light on from a switch and HE will switch the light on and off based on the S2 input, or whatever else I decide to use to do this.
Nothing quite like learning the hard way by diving straight into the deep end
So far got the HE switching to work, and parameter setting of the Fibaro FGS 212 to work but this is based on somebody else's driver for ST which had issues on HE (Like didn't work at all!), still have some more work to do though to get S2 reporting and status polling to work, once I figure this out, I will look at the AURORA Smart Double Switch driver.
The SM310z motion sensor works as a generic ZigBee motion driver, but also shows 0% battery except if you press the connect button briefly, so I believe the Generic ZigBee motion driver is not optimal for these sensors. Again, once I get more familiar with drivers, I will take a look at this as well.
FYI the Philips Hue motion sensors work well and report luminance and are smaller and only need two AAA batteries, but do cost more. The outdoor version (Much bigger) has a very long sensing range and even on minimum detects persons over 12m away!, I haven't had time to thoroughly test it out using my cat yet , but this will be easy..... One cat - Check!, One laser pointer -Check!..... The cat will be very happy helping me out with this.
Perhaps if the fingerprint for the motion sensor was supplied to @mike.maxwell he could apply it to the Generic driver and battery reporting may then work.
I don't know just thoughts.