I'm living in an apartment and considering replacing the interior of the deadbolts. I've had a z-wave smart deadbolt before - but this is my first time converting an existing lock. Looking for some help:
I've seen the August locks on display at Best Buy, but never seen one installed. I am more drawn to the non-pro version / traditional look.
From what I understand, the non-pro version with the wifi connect will not work with Hubitat - you need the pro/z-wave? I.e. you can't access August from Hubitat via wifi, only through z-wave?
In the store, the pro version seems to be tough to turn/feels clunky to manually lock from the inside versus the non-pro version which was very smooth. Was the pro at the store just treated poorly by customers, or does it take more force to operate / feel plasticy versus a non-smart deadbolt?
After unlocking the deadbolt with a key, how long does it take Hubitat to update to trigger rules?
My other consideration is the Kwikset Convert with Z-wave as it's a lot cheaper.
Try the Kwikset Convert. I have non-Pro August. It's possible to connect to HE without Z-Wave, but it's not simple. Non-Pro August requires their August Connect WiFi bridge, unless you connect it via HomeKit, but that's a clunky and unreliable (in my experience) setup to try to get it to connect to HE via Homebridge. I found the HomeKit automations easily get out of sync.
Right now, I'm controlling my August via HE using Google Assistant Relay. So HE is telling Google Assistant Relay (silently) to lock the August lock, and Unlock (with a voice code), but you don't hear it. It's all sent silently to Google Assistant. To get status, I'm using IFTTT to sync with an HE Virtual lock. I works, but slow and clunky.
On my front door, I now have a Yale YRD256 Z-Wave Plus lock. This wouldn't be for you, since you cannot change the whole lock, but if the convert connects easily, stays connected, and functions as you expect, I think you'll be a lot happier and will have more money for other home automation products.
Finally made the plunge. I took your advice and am quite happy!
I purchased 2 Kwikset Converts, $130 each. I also purchased 2 iris security keypads on ebay for $25 each. That totals $310 for 2 doors. The best similar deal I found for August is at Tink which includes the pro, the connect, and the keypad for $270, or $540 for 2 doors.
So the price savings is the first benefit. The second, which I didn't think about at first - I wanted exterior keypads. I went with the Iris keypads which connect directly to Hubitat, so I can now create unique rules based off keypad entry. I have never used an August Keypad, but as it is bluetooth to the lock (with no available connection to Hubitat), you are limited to whatever functions August has made available. I don't know what those functions are because I don't have an August, but I can almost guarantee I'm creating rules/actions based off the Iris keypad I couldn't do had I gone with the August setup.
The downfall to the Kwikset Convert system is with August you have full control of the lock and keypad from a phone app. I don't need that type of control, but if you did you might be able to create some of the functionality with a Hubitat dashboard and/or buying the $100 Kevo Plus. But I assume it wouldn't be as slick or functional as the August interface.
Some advice for first time Smart Lock Buyers:
This is my second time installing Smart Locks, so I had a semi-clue of what it would entail. But the first time I had no clue and was extremely frustrated. For anyone doing this for the first time, two important things to consider.
The ads you see are false - you can't just lightly swing the door closed and have the lock engage. Exterior doors are supposed to have pressure on the weatherstripping seal, so you need to fully close the door with some (generally minimal on a well adjusted door) force. On top of that, the deadbolt has to perfectly line up so that the motor can extend the bolt into the frame without hitting the strikeplate. If it doesn't line up properly, the lock will jam. I've heard you can sometimes get a replacement tapered bolt to help force the door into alignment as the bolt engages, but that has to be hard on the motor/battery. You are likely going to have to adjust your door/strikeplates. My first install, the strikeplate had already been adjusted so many times the frame itself was a mess - it made the install miserable. This time my frame was good, and I was able to adjust the door knob with an adjustment strike plate made by Gator. I now fully close the door with a fair amount of force, the door knob fully engages with the strike plate and holds the door in place, and at that point the deadbolt is aligned with it's strike plate. The deadbolt can now be remotely locked/unlocked fairly quietly and without jamming.
The second thing people don't usually think about is if you accidently lock the door knob itself, you won't be able to get in. As I don't want to replace my doorknobs to ones without a lock (I'm in an apartment), I purchased ugly glow in the dark door knob covers. They are grippy for people with arthritis. The important part is they cover the lockknob and keyhole to keep me (or someone who doesn't know better) from locking the door knob. It bothers me a little to think the door knob isn't locked, but everyone tells me the knob is so easily bypassed it only keeps out honest people. To keep out (or at least slow down) the dishonest, only the deadbolt matters.
I know of no way to do this via Alexa. Not saying it's not possible, but I don't know of a way to do it. Just use the google method. It doesn't require you to own a Google Home, or to use Assistant on a regular basis. Everything happens in their cloud.
You can trigger a lock with a routine, but not the reverse. They show up as trigger devices to trigger a routine with, but then it says not supported when you try to choose them.
