This is an update on how I solved the issue with my lamps not coming back online and requiring re-pairing after every power outage or router reset. After trying several different fixes to the problem, I purchased Zigbee lamps and replaced all of my Matter lamps.
Matter devices communicate with the WiFi router and not directly with the Hubitat hub and that's a problem. Every power outage and router reset requires a Matter device to have to be re-paired with the hub regardless if the hub loses power or is reset also.
I figured it was because the IP address changed, so I configured my router to assign permanent fixed IP addresses to each of my Matter lamps and rebooted the router. They still had to be re-paired in order to work with the hub even though the IP address was the same.
A couple of weeks ago our power was out, it always takes several seconds for the backup generator to switch over and that resets the router. That made all of my Matter lamps go offline. The power was out for about 8 hours, when the power was restored and the ATS switched back to the power grid and if of the generator, even though it's a faster changing, the router still resets. Still no control over my Matter lamps. One week later, this past Saturday morning, I get up and notice that several of my Matter lamps that were set to come on and go off with my landscape lighting were on, whereas they weren't working the night before. I tried one of the ceiling fan lights using the screen controller and they worked. All of my Matter lights had come back online after a week of not working. I did nothing to make this happen. Then by that night, they were offline again. Again, I did nothing to the hub or router to make this change. At this point, actually before, I was done with Matter. I had already ordered new Zigbee lamps from Amazon, they just weren't here yet. Those new lamps arrived yesterday, I got a ladder off of the truck and replaced the Matter lamps with the new Zigbee lamps. Paired them all with the hub and re-wrote all of my routines and scenes. Today I disconnected the Hubitat hub and reconnected it to see if the programming held after the reset, it did, then I reset the router to see if it helps also and it did.
We are now enjoying a fully functional automation system that doesn't rely on the WiFi router to function.
I have 17 Coniscot brand, Matter, RGBW, Edison base lamps that only have about 1500 hours (6 months) of use on them. I'll try to sell them online at a discount.
Wouldn't hurt to have your hub on a pass through battery (no momentary blip) setup. I've got my router/modem each plugged into one. Will it work when I need it? That's the question . It seemed to work during the 4 hour outage the other day. Who's got the 'energy' to actually test it, lol.
I have several matter over wifi devices. My HE hub is on a standard UPS. My Unifi router is on a standard UPS as well. They have that momentary blip at change over. The devices themselves are not. I never have to re-pair any of them after a power outage. Even after the long term outages where I have to shut everything down because I will not be home and the UPS battery will and does go dead causing complete loss of everything. It could be the specific brand lamps you are using or something else. Either way 99% of the stuff in my house is zigbee and I much prefer it over matter. I think you will be happier with your decision.
Would you mind sharing which one you have. I have standard UPS (not battery pass through) all through my house and the only thing it seems to affect is the ONT for my fiber Internet. That momentary blip will sometimes kill the Internet connection for a few minutes.
That's absolutely not normal - I've got both Matter LIFX bulbs, Tapo plugs, and Leviton wall switches that are wifi, and I've powered off both the room circuits, as well as the Unifi networking gear, and the hubs multiple times, and never had to "re-pair" anything.
I do have some issues with an Inovelli Thread white canopy (ceiling fan module), that disconnects from the hub after a few weeks, but that is a know FW issue that Inovelli plans to address..
What your describing about Matter is NOT normal and is like an issue with the brand of bulbs your using.
In addition to Matter of WiFi devices (which are easier to troubleshoot via WireShark), I've got Matter over Thread Smartwing blinds, and they work well. - The Multi-Admin features of matter, and simplicity over Z-wave is definitely a plus, IMHO
So given my Inovelli issues, I believe your experiences are very much device dependent. Obviously, your experiences are different than mine.
Hubitat withstands the change over on my Cyberpower and APC UPS's without an issue. Have had them in service for two years with multiple outages with zero issues. Neither of my three hubs reacts at all to the change. Also, all my Unifi switches, router, NVR, and everything else handles it well. The ONT for the fiber Internet is the only one that doesn't and it doesn't affect it every time but does on occasion.
As for Zigbee I have around 200 devices and for me they are rock solid. I believe it truly depends on the environment and outside circumstances. I am fortunate where I live there are no close neighbors so the only 2.4 traffic I have is what I introduce into the environment. I have three different zigbee meshes across three platforms and they are all rock solid. I have zero issues with any of the mains after power outages as well.
Perhaps I made a wrong choice with the Hues.
I have one zigbee device left, a Sinope Propane Tank Level monitor that keeps on working.
So, maybe it was Hue.
Regardless, meshless ZW-LR has been great for me, esp wrt power outages.
I have no Hue devices so I have no experience there. I also only have seven Z-wave devices (6 smoke detectors and 1 LR Shelly door sensor) and they have all been great as well. I have learned from reading everyone's post it is a lot of trial and error till you figure out what works best for you and your setup and build around that. There truly is no one size fits all. I am glad you were able to find something that performs well for you. I would stick with it as well.
WiFi is a high over head protocol. Not well suited for low bandwidth high IOT device count applications. Like light bulbs and plugs/power strips. Newer protocols, AX, BE, help if your IOT devices and AP support that. Then there is the cloud integration and additional point of failure exposure. That is why I replaced all my Wi-Fi bulbs with Zigbee or with simple dimmable bulbs (30 so far) controlled with z-wave wall switches/dimmer.
I totally agree. I used to have a little USB power brick that fortunately pass-through charged. I used it on a security camera for my work trailer until I moved the shop to a gated facility with cameras. I had that connected because we lived in the woods and it would have been real easy for someone to turn off the power and do whatever and no one would know it until they were long gone.
I have recently consolidated all of everything and anything to do with my network, home automation system, network switch, hubs, etc... into a box I built under my desk. It's fed with one cable that I could very easily plug into a UPS and it would power everything for an amount of time, even through the 5 to 10 second bump I get when the grid loses power and the generator ATS switches over.
Personally, I dam not a big fan of either Zigbee, Hue, or WiFi bulbs, although I have a few Hue and WIZ bulbs. I much prefer controlling lighting with switches or dimmers. These devices are far more familiar to household members and guests.
I am a huge fan of Lutron Caseta switches and dimmers. They are highly reliable and will continue to work if there is a failure of my WiFi router or Zigbee/Hue hub.
I agree with you that on an instance where switches are an option they are the most likely the best option. However, for a few different reasons I am relegated to the life of smart bulbs so I use zigbee. The WAF is a big driver in that. She doesn't like the small click of the relay even though I can't hear it. She doesn't complain about the rest so I give up. Lol.
I have no experience with Lutron Switches so I am asking. If the Lutron hub goes down do they revert back to basically dumb switches and not work with automations? If so that is really no different than if my HE hub goes down with zigbee bulbs. I can still use the switch. I was curious how that works with Lutron.
Lutron switches and dimmers are very quiet. They are not silent, but the volume is very low. You have to be within a few feet of a switch to hear it. A dimmer is even quieter. There are Lutron Caseta dimmers that do not even require a neutral wire. Caseta switches must have a neutral. I use them for overhead fluoresent-type fixtures that have been converted to LED. They cannot be dimmed, so dimmers cannot be used.
The Lutron bridge is connected to Hubitat through my WiFi router as the connection uses TELNET, which is a super fast data transfer link. You do have to use Lutron Pro hubs as Lutron standard hubs do not do TELNET. If the Lutron hub goes offline, all switches and dimmers can still be used manually. That means that you can still dim lights if desired. Also, Lutron Pico remotes still connect with the appropriate switch or dimmer as there is a direct connection. I have both three-way and four-way setups using Pico remotes.
I have to have On/Off switches, long story with the wife and no dimmers. Man I don't know if she is worth it. Lol just kidding. However, like you said when I priced them the cost if I remember correctly a couple years ago was north of $100 per switch.
@rwclements228 thank you for the information. I always wondered how that worked with the Lutron stuff but after the dislike of the other switches and the cost of the On/Off non-dimmer I kinda abandoned it.
Zooz dimmer switches can be set up as on/off. Then there is no relay click you here with on/off only switches. I have several set up this way. I now just keep dimmers in my back stock replacement inventory since they go both ways.
I know I have a couple dimmer models in use but the last one was a Zen 72. You set the up/down ramp rates to instant and the minimum and maximum brightness to 99%. You now have a basic on/off switch. The level can't change. You will probably have to use the community Zooz driver to expose all of the settings.
. It seemed to work during the 4 hour outage the other day. Who's got the 'energy' to actually test it, lol.
