Amazon listing says they are Hubitat compatible but I'd still like some other source to confirm that.
https://www.amazon.com/Recessed-Retrofit-Fixture-Dimmable-2700K-6500K/dp/B0CN2SGF3Q/ref=sr_1_5
Amazon listing says they are Hubitat compatible but I'd still like some other source to confirm that.
https://www.amazon.com/Recessed-Retrofit-Fixture-Dimmable-2700K-6500K/dp/B0CN2SGF3Q/ref=sr_1_5
Oooo... I like the sidelight RGB feature of these. Might be nice in my basement when watching movies. Looks like the power supply has to always be on and you have to use their battery powered remote... which might be an issue. Looks like they also pair as zigbee, so maybe Hubitat just sees them as generic RGBs?
I’m assuming the remote is just for manual control and that you could control the on/off with motion sensors.
Interesting....I wonder how they look. Choose your ceiling colour, or many colours. Not sure on the WAF though.
The listing kinda implies they’ll work with the hub when paired as a generic zigbee RGB bulb. Would probably want to confirm by ordering just one to test, before replacing a roomful of ceiling cans .
Slighty OFF TOPIC:
Looking at this and some power supplies I was looking into recently I'm impelled to ask the question....
"Do we just not care about UL testing or any of the European designations that reflect a certain threshold of quality and safety anymore?"
And if that's the case, whose kit are we trusting in our homes to "be right" ? Do we even know the brand anymore as they race each other to market with the next cool idea (copied IP or otherwise) ????
NEC code electrical work is one layer...are we ignoring the last 3 feet at our own peril or is UL just "too stringent" to bother with for today's electronics? Devil's advocate question there.
It's a reasonable question -- the race to the bottom of "whizbang features / cheap price" segment is definitely cutting corners somewhere... Are they avoiding UL/ETL cert because it's a hassle or because they know their stuff is cheap & shoddy?
For me, UL or ETL cert is an absolute requirement for anything I wire in, and anything that draws full mains/line power as a plug-in device. For LV plug-in stuff, UL/ETL is my strong preference, but if none available, I'll consider other options.
Both and also because it is EXPENSIVE to get something tested/listed.
Also, if its certified and you get review bombed because it is a trash device, you cannot just change your fake company name and (easily?) keep the certification and re-list it again with fake 5-star reviews.
Somewhere on here someone did a tear down of an unlisted Zigbee power strip and it looked very sketchy on the inside. I think there was pictures of the same one partially melting, possibly in the same thread.
I would never, ever consider connecting a device to my house’s electrical wiring if it doesn’t carry a certification from a Nationally Recognized Testing Lab in North America.
Internet merchants physically based in another continent can get away with selling untested garbage because platforms like AliExpress or even Amazon make it possible for these sellers to ship directly to consumers.
The only thing I'm not happy with are lights like these is they're only controlled programmically. You can't have a "real" light switch turing them on/off as it would disconnect from any hub. Devices like these should have trigger wires so a regular light switch could physically turn them on/off without disconnecting them from any home automation.
That would require additional wiring, which defeats the purpose of a retrofit application.
You would need a smart switch with "smart bulb mode" -- Zooz and Inovelli have this.
Under normal conditions, that enables on/off/dimming (and scene control as desired) from the smart switch, but it doesn't solve for the fact that lighting control is ultimately still hub-dependent... If your hub is down for whatever reason, you lose control of the lights.
Zigbee binding (with a Inovelli Blue switch) may be possible, but in my experience, zigbee binding isn't all it's cracked up to be, and is kind of a pain to care & feed for.
For all these reasons, I'm a fan of smart switches with dumb switched loads, and saving the smart bulbs for plug-in fixtures. That ensures at least some lighting redundancy if hub is down.