Any benefit to upgrading to latest GE/Jasco Enbrighten Switches

So I just had one off my GE/Jasco switches experience the click of death (constantly clicking on/off/on/off but not doing anything). I ordered the latest model as a replacement from Amazon and installed it, overall easypeasy.

My question is is there any benefit to upgrading all of my switches (besides the obvious of getting rid of the last non-plus devices) to the newest model? I know the Enbrighten switches have their own drivers (not Generic Z-wave Smart Switch) and support double tap on/off for scene control but besides this and the physical differences (smaller in depth) is there any reason to migrate?

I wouldn’t understate this benefit.. You will see a pretty dramatic improvement from this.

4 Likes

The other benefits are:

  1. Being able to use triple taps
  2. Ability to set the default ON value - this is very useful for night light modes, etc.

Both of those items require using the user driver, though, instead of the in-box driver.

  • To be fair, the in-box Enbrighten driver supports level pre-staging, but it works in a weird way/affects how setLevel works. With the user driver the default ON% can be set directly without messing with how setLevel works.
3 Likes

Out of 45 devices, only 17 aren't Z-Wave Plus, 5 which are battery operated devices. Will I noticed that big of a difference when the majority of devices are already Z-Wave Plus?

If anything is routing through those non-plus devices, yes - absolutely.

Anything routing through the non-plus devices slows down to non-plus speeds even if the end device is plus.

If nothing / not much is routing through the non-plus devices, then the main benefit would just be the speed on the replaced non-plus deivces.

I'm just starting to migrate to Enbrighten from all my original Z-Wave devices.
For years I have had 2 week random delay (30-60 seconds) for a select group of my devices; I hope this goes away.
I also want to get rid of the need to poll, I hate when my Dashboard says there is a light on for 2 minutes but it is really off.
I justlearned of level prestaging while reading this and I will be glad to get rid of a bulb coming on at 100% and going down to 30% in the evening instead of just turning on at 30%.

It's worth a mention in any thread about Jasco/GE switches that the switch to the Enbrighten brand occurred before the current generation was released. So you may find boxes labelled Enbrighten that, although are Z-Wave Plus and decent switches, may not have all the features being mentioned.

You can be sure it is a current generation if it does not have break-off tabs. The box should also say QuickFit (no heat sink tabs and 20% smaller) and SimpleWire (line and load are interchangeable).

1 Like

Thanks! No break-off tabs on the first 2 test ones I put in. :slight_smile:

Don't overlook the Honeywell branded ones from Jasco. Others have said there were great deals through Costco.

Costco doesn't have the Honeywell 2-pack any more.

HOWEVER, now the same device is sold under the UltraPro brand (Honeywell's alter ego) on Amazon for an OK price (not as good as the Costco deal though):
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Interchangeable-Repeater-Extender-Required/dp/B07B3LXZJ9

There are still 2 packs of the Honeywell ones on Amazon too (cheaper than the UltraPro ones I linked above), but it is a little hard to tell if they are the new or old style.

In typical Jasco/GE/Honeywell fashion they sell the old and new style under the exact same model #: 39351, and it doesn't say whether they are ZW3005 (old style) or ZW3010 (new style) that I can see.

The picture is of the old style - but it was on Costco's site too yet they were selling the new model. :man_shrugging:

1 Like

Jasco has many of their Honeywell devices on clearance, $10 off:
https://byjasco.com/honeywell

So these UltraPros are the same as the GE Enbrighten (QuickFit/SimpleWire) models?

I have a spreadsheet of all my devices with their information pulled from Hubitat, is there anyway to tell from this which are ZW3005 or ZW3010? I have a feeling I know, but without pulling off every faceplate I would love to be able to tell.

Could probably tell by deviceType and deviceId, but I don't have a list of what those map back to handy.

EDIT:
Also, now that I think about it, the old versions didn't support secure pairing at all, so you should be able to look for inCluster 0x9F to tell old from new.