@ogiewon I did laundry yesterday and this morning and this is not working for me? I was getting messages from pushover and now nothing? Is there something that I need to redo? I downloaded and install you new code and hit the configure in the app and I'm also using the pushover app? Any help would be appreciated.
@ogiewon yes I did 45 just like yours? Maybe something on my end I will restart the Aeon Lab V1 HEM and see if that help. Thanks
You didn't remove the Aeon device from Hubitat, did you? You should have simply updated the Driver groovy code, entered in the time delay, and clicked save.
I have 2 Hubitat hubs, and two Aeon HEM's. They are both working fine using this new version.
I am not sure why it wouldn't work for you.
@ogiewon I just updated the code and save just like you said. I did unplug and restart the Aeon device but in the area of washer state it shows off but is running at the moment? Not quite sure what is happening either.
So, it looks to me like the wattage value for your 'running washer' is not updating (if it truly is running right now.)
Power cycling the Aeon HEM may have caused some sort of issue. You need to get it reporting independent wattage for both devices correctly again before anything is going to work.
@ogiewon I notice that also and thought maybe when I recycle the power it would start but it did not. My washer and dryer both is running at the moment and and both variables show false??? I also when back to the code and recopy and paste etc still to no avail. Thanks for your help on this.
You can somewhat ignore the following two state variables. They are used internally to the driver to help keep track of things.
- washerIsRunning : false
- dryerIsRunning : false
They will usually align with the 'dryerState' and 'washerState', except during the newly added Delay Time feature.
Current States
- dryerState : off
- dryerWatts : 3
- numberOfButtons : 2
- pushed : 2
- switch : off
- washerState : off
- washerWatts : 3
Your goal right now is to get the Aeon HEM data flowing again. The 'Configure' button sends z-wave commands to the HEM to tell it to report two separate values, instead of one.
According to the user manual for the Aeo HEM v1, you need to "Wake the Home Energy Reader" to receive commands. To do so "Tap the Action Button - The HEM will stay awake for 10 seconds" to receive the Commands. The action button is underneath the back cover of the HEM.
@ogiewon I had another Aeon Hem laying around so I install it and it seems to be working? Maybe there something wrong with the other one? The dryer state is on now?
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It may take a complete cycle of both the washer and dryer for the two state variables to appear and for the logic to function correctly. Or, you just may need to hit refresh on your browser window.
Remember to go back into whatever app is sending you the Pushover notifications and select the new HEM.
@ogiewon thanks for your help. I did all that you said. I think maybe the unit when bad. I will reset it and try it on something else, again thanks for all you have done for me and the community.
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@mike.maxwell & @ogiewon, My washer has started giving multiple "done" indications again. When it's "OFF" by the dial (electronic, not timer based) it shows a constant draw of about 7-8 watts eventually, but not on initial completion of the cycle.
As you might recall, I tried switching legs of the 240v circuit, and it's better than it was, but still not totally stable. If I unplug it, I still read 3 watts. Is there a value in the code I can change to adjust the clamp reading to zero? Our voltages here are higher by 10 and 20 volts AC, respectively. I do recall when I lived in LA, I usually measured 110 and 220v. Is this what your voltage is? Could that be the issue, and I need to adjust values in the driver?
Again, dryer measures 0 when it's not running, so not sure why the washer won't measure the same when it's even unplugged. Could it have something to do with the gauge of the copper?
Why not just adjust the washer/dryer thresholds in the device to compensate? It's all relative anyway, so exact values really don't matter, right?
Also, have you switched to my latest version that allows you to specify how long the signal must be below the threshold before changing the status to done?
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I've played with those numbers. It's a balancing act with my washer it seems. If I go too low it signals the washer is done when it is not. Too high (by just a few watts) and it never signals it's done. Not positive I'm using your latest code. I had made that change to give a button 3 push to indicate the washer was running, but can't recall if that was done to the old code or new. What's line can I look at to see which version I'm using right now?
Are the clamps just not that accurate and the 3 watts it's reading with no current draw just what's to be expected from them sometimes?
Look for the "debounceDelay" user preference, as shown below.
preferences {
input name: "washerRW", type: "number", title: "Washer running watts:", description: "", required: true
input name: "dryerRW", type: "number", title: "Dryer running watts:", description: "", required: true
input name: "debounceDelay", type: "number", title: "Debounce delay time (seconds):", description: "", required: true
For what it's worth, I'm having the same problem trying to dial in the Aeon HEM with HE. With ST I was able to just set the threshold to 0, but with HE it seems to sometimes go down to 0 other times it doesn't. Sometimes it goes to something like 1.9 when it's done and off, and then hours after it's been off it drops to 0.
Were you using the same "Mike Maxwell Driver" on SmartThings? I cannot imagine how there would be a difference between the two platforms, since I simply ported the same code over.
Thanks. It was the old code. I'll give the new one a go and see. So far it didn't double notify in the test I just did. I added my 3rd button push for "running" to your changes, because I can still see my washer fluctuating like mad. It goes from 230W when the drum is just rotating laundry, not a fast spin or anything like that, down to 10W in a pause. I found I still need to set the running watts to around 15 to get a clear enough definition between OFF and ON.
If this still doesn't work, I may try adding two boxes right at the appliances (one for washer, and one for dryer) and pass their mains through the boxes with a clamp in each before they go to the plug. I was going to do that originally, but the panel was easier. I believe you split out a wire from your washer right at the cord and so you're measuring near the machine aren't you?
Yes, I am monitoring at the appliance, not the breaker panel.
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I did a little experimenting with the clamp right at the washer outlet, and it made no difference. But I did find a solution I think is going to work for me. I made a change to the assumed voltage by dropping it to 60
zwave.configurationV1.configurationSet(parameterNumber: 1, size: 2, scaledConfigurationValue: 60).format(), // assumed voltage
This shows a much lower running wattage on my dryer too, but I fortunately still have a very strong distinction between ON and OFF with that machine, so I just lowered the running wattage setting for the dryer to 100 watts in the driver settings. This gives an incorrect reading of the real wattage, but I only care to know if it's running or not for this use of the HEM.
For the washing machine I now have 8 watts, at a time where it was fluctuating all by itself, just above the specified running wattage of 17 watts, resulting in repeated "Washer Finished" notifications while the machine was just sitting idle. It now seems to stay pretty stable between 120 and 130 running watts, while just agitating the drum. It is still occasionally dropping down to 8 watts during the cycle, but not for too long, so if I keep my idle timeout for my virtual switches to 4 minutes, I should be fine. 
