Im probably only kicking tires here as these are still expensive.
I have 6 white LEDs on my patio controlled by a wave dimmer.
Was a new build so all i did was run the wires then used retrofit LEDs from Home Depot. Insert the wires into the small enclosure on the light then the light fixture grips through the hole to the ceiling ( no can installed)
Was thinking it would be cool to install a 6" RGBWs...though there are not a ton of smart down light options.
I guess i have 2 questions. If the description says ZIGBEE 3.0....or ZIGBEE plus...is it worth trying and seeing if a generic ZIGBEE driver works?
2nd question..and i think i know the answer isn't as simple as id like!
I currently power and dim my lights at a zwave dimmer switch. If i connect up zigbee lights...and if i continue to power them off at the switch....im assuming that 6 devices showing as disconnected at frequent times cant be good on my mesh.
I seem to recall that the inovelli red could be set up where the power is always provided to the circuit and the on / off or dim up dim down just sends a respective command from the hub to the respective lights - yes?
Before i go down this path i was thinking id like
Single tap up or down...on/off
hold up / down...corresponding Dim or down
Double , triple tap...etc...cycle through some pre set colors.
I think that can be done with HE and an inovelli red dimmer...yes?
Anyway...as mentioned kicking tires as i don't know when i want to spend 40 or 50 dollars a light x 6.
But it would look uber cool!
But for me question #1 with mains wired devices is always, can I be reasonably assured they’re designed and built to acceptable standards such that I don’t need to worry about them burning my house down?
Only way I know of is to look for a certification by UL, or similar labs like Intertek and CSA.
There’s no mention of that in the Amazon listing, which almost certainly means it’s not UL certified. However I asked a question on the product page to see what the manufacturer says.
If you look in the reviews, the first review at the top (at the time I types this) was from a hubitat user. But as stated from another reviewer there is no junction box on the case of this lights and will most likely not be acceptable in the US/Canada code where I assume you are from since you mention Home Depot. You might be able to use a recessed light metal box with these to make them code acceptable but ask an electrician in your state /province to be sure.
Never even heard of them before till now.
Cool looking. And no different in price then other smart color LEDs
I’m not sure why but I tend to shy away from WiFi interfaces. Maybe it’s because I’ve just never done it more than anything else.
Sadly these wouldn’t work for me anyway. They need to be installed in a pre existing can.
But appreciate the thought.
Cheers.
Mac
Lifx is 100% local, no cloud and natively supported by hubitat (because they're 100% local) Honestly they are a superior bulb. @bcopeland (who wrote the integration) changed out every light in his house to them. @bcopeland... How many lifx lights are you up to now?
So who knows what to think now. I probably asked the wrong question though. It doesn’t matter if they claim to comply with UL standards (which is what I inadvertently asked), it really only matters if they have been certified by UL (or a similar lab). Either they haven’t, or it’s not clear. So for safety’s sake, pass.
I would find it hard to believe there is no junction box, I bought a similar (dumb) product from Home Depot and there was a metal junction box I mounted on the stud above the insulation where all the wiring met. I would think this would have something similar, if not definitely a no go.
It’s not that uncommon. There are 2 main types of these lights.
The first has a pig tail that fits your standard bulb socket and is meant to replace the existing light and fit into a can
The second is a retrofit kit where there is an electrical enclosure built onto the device where the electrical wires are connected to the light wires. Great fir right spaces or when simply pulling a wire to a new location for a down light.
The pics on this one ( if I recall right ). Had neither. Simply looked like a pig tail. Which in and of itself is odd. I suppose you file wire nut the pigtail to the electrical but you’d assume at that point you would have to have an octagon box installed and in that case…how would you mount the fixture.
Odd. But as it’s not ul rated im steering clear regardless.
I also have canless fixtures that come with a junction box. The box itself is quite clearly visible on the product packaging. There are many others available on amazon and IIRC they also tend to prominently feature the junction box.
I agree, it’s yet another strange detail about this product, and not a reassuring one in terms of electrical safety.
Your request has been updated. Your ticket number for reference is 20220420-RCGD2Q. You may reply to this email directly.
Hi Enrique,
Thank you so much for your patience.
I just received the answer from the relevant team department, and their answer was that most of the US bulbs are UL certified, with the exception of a few which are ETL certified, and that references the UL standards.
I hope we were able to answer your question, let me know if you any other question or if you need any further help.
