You could look at the Leviton z-wave dimmer and add-on dimmer remotes. The wiring has to be modified to work with these switches but the advantage is you can have dimmer control at every switch box.
Yup sure would! They're not cheap. But available in 4 colors!
Thanks, this looks right. I have to figure out the traveler pairs throughout. Likely will look at this more later this week/weekend.
Fair point on the smoke detector. It never worked well, so was replaced with a battery one a number of years ago, well before my smart home/switch days. Light didn't turn on until recently, and I was just ignorent to the number of wires there.
Please verify the travelers if possible.
If it turns out the detailed diagram is correct then position 1 is the only location I can see for the Zooz.
However if you wish to use either a GE or Inovelli that support Aux switches (which are cheaper than a full dimmer). Then you can make all three locations full on/off dim
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I do have an inovelli red dimmer I can move there.
I'll trace out the travellers this weekend.
If you want dimmers in all locations. Or if you want a dimmer in location 2 then:
Your Inovelli goes in spot 1, Aux controls go in 2 and 3.
Can an aux switch take 2 sets of travellers? Thinking this model.
From the link:
ADVANCED DESIGN 2ND-GENERATION MODEL – Improved components reduced the housing depth by up to 20% compared to previous models and eliminated the need for breakoff tabs. Quick Fit enhancements are the ideal smart solution for older-style switch boxes, multi-gang configurations or any other application with limited space. Dual ground ports, which are offset to avoid switch box mounting screws, support daisy-chaining in multi-switch setups.
I'm guessing... yes??
Yes.
You just parallel all the neutrals and travelers.
You should check the Inovelli site to verify that particular Aux switch is compatible
Agreed. Lutron Caseta is great.
I have several 3-way situations and one 4-way (thankfully no 5-way, but with Lutron 5-way is no different). With Lutron, you install the dimmer (or switch) as required in the primary position. Then for all other you install inexpensive Pico remotes that are paired with the primary dimmer. The Picos will also pair with the Lutron Pro bridge that interfaces with Hubitat. However, even if the Lutron bridge goes down, the Picos will still activate the dimmers. The only thing you have to do is connect together all of the traveler wires so no extra dimmers are needed.
That is a lot simpler than trying to figure out how to setup a 4-way or 5-way system using switches.
I can't comment on the Pico's as I've not had experience with them. They are likely a fine solution.
However if one were to use Aux switches the wiring becomes trivial.
Just a note, if wiring with standard dumb switches, once you get to a 4-Way, any additional "ways" becomes no more complex.
My #1 smart house rule is that the switches must operate normally when no hub is present...otherwise, things could fail "the wife test"...not to mention you have to rewire stuff to sell the house.
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That is precisely why I love the Lutron Caseta devices. Even if I remove my Lutron bridge and Hubitat hub, the Caseta devices and Pico remotes will continue to operate as standard dimmers. Thus, it will not be necessary to rewire the switch boxes when I move. However, I did save all the dumb switches in case a prospective buyer insists on switches rather than dimmers.
My wife has no clue about the operation of the home automation system. Thus, if I die, I want her to be able to operate everything from the wall switches and dimmers.
Now that I didn't know the pico will continue to operate without the bridge. Good to know since I have a house full of Caseta devices.
In order for the Pico device to work without the bridge, it has to be paired directly with the appropriate dimmer or switch. A dimmer or switch can be paired with multiple Picos. That is a simple procedure.
Following up a month later on this.
Traveler (1) from box 1 and 1 traveler set from box 2 meet under the smoke detector with another set for load. 2nd traveler from box 2 goes to box 3.
Still trying to figure out one more set of travelers under the smoke detector. Will try to climb through the attic to figure it out. I thought it was a connection to the old wired smoke detector. Previously weren't connected to anything.
Planning to use inovelli red gen2 dimmers, with the aux ge dimmer add ons (46199).
Main confusion is my mapping of connections under my smoke detector.
EDIT: Here's a diagram I made. Also working on this on the Inovelli Forum.
All fixed, i believe. Will cross my fingers. A final air gap pull on the inovelli seemed to make it work with the aux as planned.
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