I am a total newbie but learnt a few things I wanted to share with other newbies - if that helps.
My experience is based on Inovelli Gen 2 switches. The good news for the newbies: the latest generation of switches across various brands is a lot easier to install. Prior generations required rewiring cables in both electrical boxes. The newer generation of switches allows you to keep your wiring intact in one of the boxes.
Also, some brands (e.g., Inovelli) allow you to only replace 1 switch in the 3-way, keeping the other "dumb" switch in place and saving you money. Other brands like GE require a so-called "add-on" switch in a 3-way configuration (aka you need to buy the smart switch AND an add-on switch).
Here is my experience for installation:
1 - Find out in which box the "Line" is. You do that by using a multimeter and checking whether one of the black plugs is always hot, whether the existing switch is on or off. This is the box that is connected with your electrical panel
2 - Once you have identified the "hot" box, you have 2 options:
a - Either you install the Smart Switch in the "hot" box (preferred solution), and you can keep the existing "dumb" switch in the other box
b - Or you install the Smart Switch in the "non-hot" box and in that case you need an Add-On switch in the "hot" box. You do that when the "hot" box is located in an inconvenient location.
Another potential reason for using an Add-On switch instead of a dumb switch is if you have a dimmer, and you want dimming capability from both switches. Add-On switches will replicate the capability of the Smart Switch they are wired with. An Add-On switch wired to a Smart Dimmer Switch becomes a dimmer switch.
If you use a dumb switch, the Switch Type of the Smart Switch will be "3-way Toggle". If you use an Add-On switch, the Switch Type of the Smart Switch will be "3-way Momentary".
The Add-On switch is not a z-wave repeater -- it just sends a signal to your Smart Switch. Hubitat will therefore see your Smart Switch (once discovered) but not your Add-On switch.
There are MANY options in term of wiring. Some models require a Neutral and some don't. Check your specific model and your specific wiring situation. Good luck and don't forget to turn the power off once you have found the "hot" box!
Consider yourself lucky if your breaker trips the first time you have a short. My noob and almost deadly experience was I didn’t turn the breaker off. I just twisted the live wire away from the outlet, stripped. The the neutral wire (which is curved) shorted to live 2x. 1st one, my hand towel caught fire because it was just above the outlet. The second one tripped the breaker. I didn’t even know my towel caught fire until my smoke detector sounded.
The best is when you flip the wrong breaker and you think you are working on a dead cct. I have gotten in the habit of using a hot detector after many lessons.
this happened to be the other day. I turned the breaker off and checked with my voltage detector. The problem is, my voltage detector ran out of battery so I got zapped. That's why I like to check it with my detector first the turn off the breaker, then check again just to be sure.
I always use this to test anything before I stick my hands into a junction box.
They are only a couple of bucks at Home Depot. No batteries, no meter to need a 3rd hand to hold and positive contact (as opposed to the non contact versions). And I don't have to read a meter, I can watch where my hands are and only have to notice when it lights on (or not).
This one is older than dirt and has never failed me.