I have a Zooz zen 22(load side) and a inovelli red series dimmer wired together. Having issues getting the inovelli to dim the zen 22. It only turns it on and off. I can still dim the light on the Zooz end and it will show the level on the inovelli led bar. The inovelli has local control disabled. I have it associated with the zen 22 but from what I read the zen 22 only supports group2 not 4 and 4 is for dimming? I don’t really know much about associating z wave things but figured that was the way to go. I’m currently using the mirror me app both ways and like I said everything works well just can’t dim the light from the inovelli?
That's not Z-Wave Association, just an automation on your hub you can use to "sync" the level from one dimmer to another. Inovelli has a Z-Wave Association tool (parent and child app) you can use to create associations between two devices. It's only officially intended for Inovelli devices and more or less requires one of their devices (or at least a driver with specific commands) as the "source," but if the Zooz supports association, it should work, too. That being said, I just looked at the Zooz ZEN22 manual, and it doesn't seem to support association for Switch Multilevel, which I think you'd need to get dimming, just Basic Set, which would be just on/off. So I'm not sure you'd be able to fully use Z-Wave association here. However, it sounds like yours is opposite of what Inovelli recommends, where the "source" device is the one connected to the load.
That being said, I'm not sure Mirror is the best solution here, either. Its intent was for remote-style devices that keep track of their own level (like the Lutron Aurora) and send those to another device, like a smart bulb, when manipulated--so basically one-way traffic. It might work as you want, but I'm not sure if I've heard of anyone using it that way or if it might cause problems (unnecessary back-and-forth until things settle down?). But with local control on the Inovelli disabled, I'm not sure you're going to get "level" events, so you'd probably need that disabled. The "remote" Inovelli shouldn't be hooked up to a load, anyway, so this shouldn't have any affect on your circut (do make sure its load is not connected to anything but especially not to the other dimmer).
There are limitations to all of these approaches, which you can read about here if you haven't: Knowledge Base Redirect – Inovelli
An alternative might be an add-on switch like the GE or HomeSeer. You won't get Inovelli's LED, but most of that won't work over Association, anyway, so you'd have to get the hub involved (which they recommend against, but if your hub isn't slow--and Hubitat being local shouldn't be if you aren't experiencing problems--it would probably work fine for as much of this as you want, including bypassing association entirely). A "dumb" switch is also an option if you have a neutral at the "real" switch. Pretty much any approach has some limitations, with those of the latter two mostly being loss of multi-taps/scenes and the notification LED, but again, all of that is tricky no matter what you use--especially if the second switch isn't an Inovelli (I think Zooz only goes up to three taps too?).
I recommend if you want to do this, do it with two of the red inovelli dimmers and use the associations. I currently have this setup on my staircase and working nicely.
I explained the setup in the thread below. In regards to the wiring I have one switch setup to control the load and he other switch setup with no load on it (just line, neutral and ground). You may need to understand your wiring to do this as you may have to do some small wiring to get power to the appropriate switch.
It is also very important that you modify the one parameter i mentioned in the link below or you will cause a looping effect that may cause the mesh to suffer. You should also see it in the logs if you have device logging on.
The one negative is sending remote commands will not be mirrored. In your automations you’re will have to send the command to both if needed or as somebody suggested create a virtual switch that controls both.
With with this setup, from either switch I can turn on, off and dim the light and the change is kept in sync on the other switch. I find the response to be really fast with associations compared to using a hub.
Im not familiar with the zooz switch but it looks like @bertabcd1234 knows exactly why it wouldn’t work with associations.
It's quite uncommon to use 2 different groups for switch control but regardless, you can add any device to Group 4 on the receiving end. The ZEN22 supports Group 2 in the sense that if it itself needs to control something remotely, that other switch or bulb will need to be added to group 2. But a device doesn't need to "support" an association group to be added to it.
We're not familiar with Inovelli's association tool but they claim any device could be used in that tool so their support should be able to assist you with setting this up so that the dimming part works as well.
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Reviving an old post.
It appears the suggestion here is to go with two Inovelli red series dimmers to be able to use them both in a single 3 or 4 way circuit.
Two Questions:
- Can you put a non-dimmer smart switch in the Line/Load/Neutral box, and the dimmer in the other switch location?
- How about this config with Zooz27 switches?
Use case, i have 3 and 4 way circuits where i like to use dimmers, but the main used switch is not the box where the smart switch/dimmer is needed to go in per diagrams. Probably least confusing would be to use multiple dimmer switches on the circuit. I use a mixture of Zooz/Inovelli switches in my home.
It all depends which scenario you have exactly, whether the line and load are in the same box or if they're in separate boxes. The ZEN22 would probably work in any location of a 3-way set-up if you had the standard scenario of line coming to box 1 and load coming to box 2 so that you have at least 4 wires in each box to accommodate the ZEN22. If you need your smart switch to replace a switch that's currently connected to 3 wires, all of them coming out of the same romex, then you wouldn't be able to wire them as direct 3-ways with the smart switch in that box since 1 wire would be missing. You could do a virtual 3-way with 2 Zooz switches though. If you send us a list of your scenarios, we'll be happy to point you to the best switch model and solution for each set-up.
