I am trying to wire and install a Zooz Zen30 800LR double switch to control an LED light from the top rocker switch, and a bathroom exhaust fan from the bottom button. I believe I have everything wired correctly. I have the black and blue wires attached to a pig tail coming off of the hot wires bundled in the back of the box. The red wire going to the LED load, the yellow wire going to the fan load. Neutral wire tied into the neutral bundle in the back of the box and the ground tied into the ground bundle at the back of the box.
My issue is that the bottom button does not seem to work. I confirmed this by switching the yellow and red wires and when I turned on the rocker switch the fan operated as expected and the light did not come on when I turned on the bottom switch.
I factory reset this thing multiple times. I wired it back up correctly and then brought it into Hubitat. The driver I’m using is the Hubitat “Zooz double switch” driver. It created one child device Zooz Double Switch relay”.
If I hit the relay button the bottom indicator light goes on and off but nothing happens with the fan. If I control the relay in Habitat, the indicator light does not change.
In the logs if I physically hit the bottom button the logs show it as “button 1 pushed”.
I bought this device in January of 24 from the smartest house but it has stayed in the box until today when I tried to install it.
do I have a defective device, or is there a possible setting I’m missing?
No driver change will fix the physical relay. It does sound like the bottom button has a bad relay inside, if it does not physically connect the circuit. A different driver may get the light on the button to change digitally, but that isn't going to help the fact that the physical relay doesn't flip when you hit the button.
You know the button is working because it changes the light state, so you can rule out a bad button. If you have any electrical experience, you might want to open it up and see if you can replace that relay, or see if there is a bad solder joint on the board connection for the relay, that you could reflow with a soldiering iron.
Edit: I checked with Google, and the bottom switch uses a 15-amp isolated/dry contact relay. The top button is a dimmer, so it uses a triac. If you open the case, you should find only one, obvious, contact relay on the board.
You would have to get in to see exactly what to get for a replacement, but it should be a relay with a 5V coil. The board sends it 5V to open. It is possible the board is bad and not sending the relay the 5V, so if you have a multi-meter I would wire it up when open to check if it gets the 5V. If you have 5v when the switch light is on, it is a bad relay or a bad relay connection.
EDIT2: Hey, just thinking, does that have a smart bulb mode? It literally could be set to not use the relay in that mode.
The Fix: Perform the manual bypass combination to re-enable local control. Tap-and-hold the bottom relay button for exactly 10 seconds. The LED indicator will flash to confirm the setting has toggled
Also, have you disconnected it from power since it was found to not work? You might need to drain the capacitors if the relay is "stuck" by removing power for ten seconds.
I’m sure this has been covered already, but just in case it helps anyone else. The bottom button, as detailed above, is a dry contact relay output. There are two wires for that bottom button, one of the wires needs to be connected to line and the other needs to be connected to the load in order to work.
You should be able to hear the contact open/close if you can toggle that switch in Hubitat or physically with the bottom button.
Based on this then yes, wired correctly. If you use a jumper wire and short between the yellow and blue wires does the fan run? (i.e. prove out the fan, and all the wiring before condemning the switch..). is there an electronic fan speed module (controlled by ir remote) in the fan? Could it be set to off?
What I did was switch the yellow and the red wires. So dimmer now on the fan Load and the relay on the light. The fan came on when I turned the dimmer switch on. So it’s not the wiring or the fan as far as I can tell.
I’m currently in emails with Zooz and they want me to take pictures of all of the wiring in the box. I took the smart switch out and replaced it with the old stacked switch and I’m currently out of town. So I’m on a stall on that front. But there’s like 800 wires in the box because there’s 3 regular switches, a stacked switch and an outlet all wired up in that box. I don’t know how anyone can make out anything from pictures. So many wires! So crowded! I put in deep boxes in my home to accommodate the smart switches. But I think the electrocutions just decided, because the room was available, to add more switches in each box and extra length of wires
This is all good info. I probably could take the switch apart, but I don’t have a ton of experience with that stuff. So I’d rather just figure it out with Zooz. They said if the switch is busted that it’s under warranty. I need to try to reset the relay though with the 10 second press, which means connecting the smart switch back up to the box.
Sounding like a defective switch or maybe a parameter setup problem but unless you made radical config changes that doesn’t seem too likely.
The dimmer to the fan pretty much proves out the fan works and the wiring is intact. You shouldn’t run a fan from a dimmer permanently but a simple test should be fine.
I would put a jumper between the yellow and blue wires to be sure the fan runs. All you are doing is simulating the relay inside the switch is closing. The yellow and blue are just NO contacts to relay in the switch.
