I don't think its relevant, but I have a C8 hub.
My wife wants a z-wave controlled outlet at a location where a switched AC outlet exists.
That same switched circuit controls another (porch) light.
It's OK that a second, z-wave outlet can only turn on when the switch for the circuit is on (it is a Z-wave switch). But I worry that whenever there's no power to the new z-wave switch, it might get eliminated from the mesh.
Are there other reasons not to do this?
How about buying a Zooz ZEN04 with the 800 series chip and long range z-wave? Long range only communicates with the hub, and not other devices, so you would think it could weather losing power. Plus, you can adjust behavior after power is restored, like on, off, last state.
If it's a switched outlet, why not just change out the switch instead? That way you don't have to worry about something not being on the mesh and you can use a smart bulb in the light. Another advantage is, 1 tap for outlet, 2 taps for light. (or similar)
You are spot on with your worry if the device participates in the mesh.
The option @velvetfoot gave is probably the best option to prevent any negative impact from it.
If you are buying a new outlet with Zwave in it then this becomes a wiring question. Would need to see how the current outlet is wired. In many cases there is a bridge between the bottom and top outlet that broken off when you are making them switch controlled. If you replace that outlet you just need to not perform that same action and they would both have continuous power. Then you just need a good way to deal with the left over hot wires. you would need to cap them and whatever else is needed to follow code. That said this is still about how it is wired. That is the first question to really answer for th is route.
I'm thinking he might have meant "plug" not outlet. He's going to plug in that plug to an outlet on the porch that is controlled by a smart switch inside the house.
Right, but the potential option is actually still the same. The outlet could be rewired potentially to remove the switch. Then the plug used would be avalaible at any time.
It'd probably have a gfi outlet out there on the porch, so there's that.
You might check the existing switched outlet....usually only one of the duplex outlets is switched.
On an outside outlet?
I do not think the Zen04 is rated for outdoor use either.
I think there are some open questions that need to be answered.
Is the outlet GFI?
Is the outlet a duplex outlet?
Are both outlets controlled by the switch or just one?
What is the wiring like for the outlet?
Wow, thanks for all the replies. Got busy on something else and just now getting back online
A diagram should help explain my original question.
So, my original thought was to simply change the Duplex outlet to be zwave, but that might have issues as I noted and discussed in the posts.
But, I think I have a better idea. I think the existing zwave switch can be configured for "Physical Control disabled". That will make the switched AC always on. That should eliminate the issues with the duplex outlet being a zwave device.
If that the existing Zwave switch is replaced by a dumb switch, things will work as they do now, satisfying #5.
I found Par 38 zwave devices that I can use for Fixture 1 and Fixture 2. That would be the easiest, but they are only rated for 600 lumens. That's probably not enough illumination to satisfy #3, but there's only one way to know. I have a couple on order to try.
If the zwave, Par 38 isn't bright enough (only #2 has to be really bright), a zigbee device might be an option. I do see very high illumination zigbee, par 38 bulbs, but that would be the only zigbee device in the whole house and there might be an issue with the distance from the hub to the device (it's a recessed light in a can on the front porch).
I would add a rule so that a tap on the existing zwave switch would turn on fixture #1 (AC from the dimmer stays unswitched, fixture #1 turns itself off. This rule would be active only during Christmas season. When the lights come down and the scene goes away, I could reconfigure the switch for physical control, or just make fixture #1 and fixture #2 part of a group that toggles when the dimmer switch is toggles.
Any other ideas welcome, or especially a zwave par 38 fixture or bulb that is very bright.
Dur
The first things that stands out to me is an outlet powered by a dimmer switch. The outlet needs to be a constant 120VAC. Regardless if its smart or not.
Yes, that's why physical control at the dimmer switch will be disabled during Christmas season. That will make the line labelled "switched AC" always on.
And the outlet will only be used during Xmas season. It's only accessible by removing some plastic panels in the porch ceiling.
That was my original idea, but having the switch bypassed in the box would be a bit "hacky", IMWHO (in my wife's humble opinion). But, I think I can accomplish the same thing by disabling physical control.
The main issue with dimmers (dumb and smart) in such a situation is that even when fully on/up, most (all?) do not actually pass full 100% load power downstream. Some better than others, but that missing bit can be enough to really mess with downstream loads that are expecting/need 100% load power.
I hear you--
I'm going to give a try though. Hopefully the devices are tolerant enough to AC mains "noise" that it will work.
If not I'll have to actually wire around the switch in the box and use a plate with one side blank--wife hates that idea.
Thanks!
Is there a zwave+ switch (not dimmer) that is available that supports "disable physical control"?
Maybe this one?
Download the Hubitat app
