Okey-cokey, I think I'm calling time on the QBKG03LM and '04LM. I've battled these devices on two systems over the past... wow, year and a half. I'd eventually moved to having them on their own C-5; their own mesh with nothing but themselves and a few TrÄdfri repeaters. All LQIs above 250.
Well, I had to turn the ground floor lighting circuit off yesterday. The hub and repeaters, plus switches elsewhere in the house, all stayed on. Not one of them reconnected when the power came back. Not only did they not come back, they knocked the ones which weren't powered down off the mesh. Nothing on the mesh works any more.
I now have some of the D1 variant on order, because there aren't a whole lot of other options in the UK. Hopefully they've learned a thing or two working with IKEA, because the stuff they've done for them works great!
I'm going to try the QBKG22LM (two gang), QBKG25LM (three gang) and the WXKG07LM (two gang wireless). No idea when they'll appear, let's see how shipping from China is going right now.
Sorry to hear it doesn't work for you, those have created lots of issues for many though. It could partially be fixed with 2.2.3, but I understand if enough is enough
I have the QBKG22LM, it has worked well. QBKG25LM is a version I don't have, but my driver should work with it, if not I'd love to sort it out. Same goes for the WXKG07LM.
It might not apply to you, but it's the PAN id changes that should be less frequent and possibly not occur at all. Since I've not seen the full traffic logs from Wireshark when those types of wall switches you use fall off and cause issues I can't be certain. If you do happen to record Wireshark logs of that happening I'd love to take a look.
I'm now the proud owner of some Aqara D1 wired (no neutral) and wireless switches. I have two QBKG22LM and two WXKG07LM set up at the moment and over the past 48 hours they've reliably reported in with these drivers and work with no issues so far (save for the button configuration being wrong, but I'm interested in their reliability on the mesh right now).
The wireless switches check in every 50 minutes with battery, temperature (looks a bit high), RSSI and LQI readings. The wired switches check in with the same readings (with a fake battery level of 3300, but temperatures that look right) every 6 minutes.
Whereas the previous wired and wireless Aqara switches I owned couldn't exist on the same mesh without the wireless ones being bumped off, these appear to perform perfectly fine so far. It's the same mesh that the old devices were on, consisting only of these Aqara D1 switches, one TrÄdfri repeater, three TrÄdfri lamps and a Salus SP600 outlet.
Obviously I'm only 48 hours in, but that's already 24 times more reliable for the wireless switches than I was experiencing before!
After adding two more QBKG22LM wired switches I hit a problem; both of the WXKG07LM wireless switches and the SP600 outlet lost connectivity. The recovery mode of the driver would often bring back the wireless switches after three or four presses, which is better than the older version of the wireless switch could manage, but ten minutes later they'd be gone again.
Following the general advice that lamps are terrible repeaters I removed the TrÄdfri lamps from the mesh and added two more TrÄdfri repeaters. After about 24 hours things seem to have stabilised again, to the extent that the wireless switch actually worked when my wife pressed it this morning.
@veeceeoh How to avoid having any repeaters, and having a direct connection to the sensor? I donât have any working repeaters and canât buy them... should I just unplug every zigbee device in the house? I am fine with avoiding these.
Just a question.
If you do not have any repeaters, why do you need to avoid using them.
Wouldn't your devices connect directly to your hub?
Just a thought.
Thanks.
Hi! I bought an Aqara motion sensor DJT11LM, pair it in hubitat without issue. I put it on my front door, if somebody knocking in the door to give me a notification. The problem I have is that I don't know how to set it in dashboard (I tried motion, acceleration), but is not changing the state. Any ideas? Thanks!
Thanks for who ever put these drivers together. I picked up one of the temperature sensors and it's been very reliable for the past week no network drop offs and is pretty much identical to the NYCE motion sensor and thermostat that are within 5 ft of it. I put that there just to test it to see how it would work. The only problem I seem to be having is every hour or so it will report the temperatures 32° and then either simultaneously or within a second or two it goes back to what it should be. Anyone else experience anything like that?
That could be a problem with the driver if it gets data from the device and it thinks it contains temperature information which is 0 and then adds 32 to it.
You could try using a driver that I've written recently for my own use which supports several of these devices:
Don't have anything kicking aoud for the original button perhaps?
I have had success moving almost all of my 75+ devices over to HE from ST but I have had to use HubConnect (to the ST hub) for the stubborn Fibaro FGK-101 probe and the origial Xaiomi button.
The the buttons show up immediately on pairing but never finish the init no matter what I do like pressing the button repeatedly.
That's what I have been playing with is the old a4refilpad and veeceeoh driver's I used from ST.
So far I have used Minimotes to replace them but that's a but overkill to toggle a light at night
The fact that it doesn't even finish pairing seems to be the real problem, I guess. When I've had issues with some of these devices before, I've found pairing them to a different hub (like back to the ST hub) and then back again to HE can help. But I imagine you've already done that if you've been going back and forth.
I got them to pair! An old thread clearly stated that it was push the button multiple times until it paired and NOT the reset button.
I ticked the reset button every 4 seconds or so and Voila!, both paired after the discovery.
