I use clean Zigbee switches for some switches, as a top up; not common used switches
I use dumb motions when they can be used (half baths for example and garages)
I pair up loads, sometimes you see two or even three switches that turn on the ceiling lights. With dimming this is not required. I put in a blank plate if the space is not used up with a Pico
I use the Caseta Switch for a lot of standard three ways switches over using a pico. This will not work on the dimmers. It is also quite cheap
-I will use multiple hubs but only in a worse case scenario because it can confuse customers.
-I use Zigbee or Z-wave motions over the Lutron one
-Another trick I use is that I create an email address for the home itself and use that for all equipment. Great for home ownership transfers.
I have been able to use this strategy to put in a single hub on a 10,500 square foot house and it works great.
RA2 Select is nice but just too expensive and customers will only pay so much so I find that money comes out of my pocket.
That is great. I will give that a try. I am new to Hubitat (I am only on to my third one) and this was not an option on my previous hubs to the best of my knowledge. I also used a lot of Z-wave in the past and still do.
I wish Lutron would make a normal looking toggle switch in their Caseta line. I know it exists in RA2, but that is a significant price jump. If Lutron really wants to have a super seller in their Caseta lineup, they should make a simple switch/dimmer and motion switch, similar to the GE/Jasco one, that would report the motion through telnet. That would be the best, I would buy a lot of them.
It is not like they don't have manufacturing know how and expertise to do something like this.
Yeah I was initially against "dumb" motion sensors - like the ones that electricians put in the closets but have come around. Not really a necessary function unless the client wants absolute control over everything (there are some!).
For N-Way switches I have done a variety of things.
Z-Wave associations work but can be slow if not careful, popcorning can happen if controlling multiple lights, definitely popcorning sounds as the relays in the switches sync - on the plus side they work independent of a hub which is very nice.
Daughter switches work too and are probably the "best" solution but maybe not for all wiring schemes and you need to buy extra switches.
Button presses and disabling the physical switching (smart bulb mode) on the non primary switches - this works really well is fast and there is no relay clicking BUT the big issue is it requires a running hub for it to work properly.
I really like the idea of a home/location email address - and using that as the user/login. Fantastic idea!!!
I will throw in another recommendation for Lutron.
I have both Lutron dimmers and switches and dimmer plugs. They just work. The switches require a neutral wire to function, but the some of the dimmers work even without a neutral wire connected. That greatly simplifies installation. It is also easy to install them in 3-way and 4-way situations by using Pico remotes. The nice thing is that the remoted are paired directly with the dimmer or switch so that they can still function without the Lutron Pro bridge. That is a great convenience if you ever sell your house. The switches and dimmers will still work even if you remove the Lutron bridge.
The Lutron Pro bridge connects to Hubitat using Telnet over Ethernet. That makes it very fast to respond.
Lutron operates on a different frequency that Lutron calls Clear Connect. It is not affected by interference of other devices: WiFI, Zigbee, Z-wave, microwave oven, cordless telephones, baby monitors, etc. That may be why is it so reliable.
Yes, Lutron devices are more expensive when first purchased, but if you value your time (and sanity), they are worth the premium. If you cannot afford to install everything at one time, install the most critical devices first and then install others as your budget permits.
Having just outfitted my home for sale with a combination of Lutron Caséta for main lighting, and Hue controlled by Pico for accent lights in the bedrooms, I would say they are the superior budget option.
My new home will be RA2 most likely. None of us like that Caséta dimmers cannot be programmed to turn on to a specific level when pressing the ON button. I prefer the options that RA2 offers and am willing to pay for it.
I was looking at Legrand and noticed they are offering a set of WiFi switches, dimmers and outlets BUT they also have a set of "Smart" devices, without making it clear what the difference is.
Then I found their Smart Gateway. It's a WiFi to Zigbee hub, that is 2"x2" and fits in a wall box:
Just provide AC power, use their app to connect it to your WiFi and then join in all your Legrand Smart devices... that's the marketing take on it apparently
There's no particular FCC data on this particular model but there is for the other form factor:
ecobee does that for sure. Their thermostats have a zigbee radio that uses zigbee channels 6-10, which is used to communicate with their remote "smart" sensors.
Not to the point, these are a good value (in-wall dimmer for $16.99 at this moment) and work with Alexa and Google Home. They require a propriety app and an internet connection and a reliable home wifi network.
Limited-time deal: Kasa Smart Dimmer Switch HS220, Single Pole, Needs Neutral Wire, 2.4GHz Wi-Fi Light Switch Works with Alexa and Google Home, UL Certified,, No Hub Required
No need to beg forgiveness here! My wife was thrilled that I replaced all of our old almond switches with nice new white Caseta devices and Claro wall plates. If you convert everything, it all like nice, clean, and consistent. The lighting is also now pretty much fully automated, thus we rarely touch the switches.
Thanks for the correction/addition. The switches I picked up at my local Home Depot were the PD-6ANS that do require a neutral. I was not aware of the PD-5WS-DV devices.
My wife was thrilled that I replaced all of our old almond switches with nice new white Caseta devices and Claro wall plates. If you convert everything, it all like nice, clean, and consistent. The lighting is also now pretty much fully automated, thus we rarely touch the switches.
