I thought it would be easy to set up a washing machine done notification, but so far, I was wrong.
I can't use a smart plug to monitor power, because I have one of those 3 prong 240v outlets (NEMA 10-30R). I looked at the HomeSeer HS-FS100-L Z-Wave Plus Indicator Light Sensor, but it seems to be out of stock everywhere. I tried a vibration sensor, but turns out my washing machine doesn't vibrate for a good chunk of its cycle. Setting a timer isn't an option because the time varies based on a variety of factors.
Until it’s common for washing machines to support matter, this will be a challenge. There are several threads that discuss this already but it’s probably gonna take a combo of power, vibration and contact sensors along with some good rules to make this work consistently.
ie trigger on amps are greater than 0 and door is closed and acceleration is active… thats a good sign it’s cleaning.
trigger on amps = 0 for 30 mins and acceleration is inactive for 30 mins and door is closed for more then 30 min… thats a good sign your clothes are done.
Getting the rules right for your enviroment will be the hard part.
Thanks for this. I already suspected this was going to be true, as I couldn't find a way to do it using my google-fu, but it's good to see someone else say it.
This is correct. I think I watched power usage for a few wash cycles before determining power use conditions that were a catch-all for the washer. I have similar rule for the dryer - also based solely on power consumption.
I monitor the power usage of my washer and dryer electrical circuits by using a whole home energy monitoring system. This system can monitor up to 14 circuits, and the washer and the dryer both have dedicated breakers making this somewhat straightforward (well, for those with the proper training and skills to install such a system inside their electrical panels.)
So, that is another option to consider. Unfortunately, the specific device that I use (IoTaWatt) is not currently being sold in the USA. There may be a Canadien company willing to ship to the USA, but expect a pretty high price due to ongoing fun with tariffs.
There are other products that are more readily available on the market, however I really don't have any experience with those. Thus, I cannot recommend anything specifically.
You can use a Zigbee power monitor with clamp. You put the clamp on one of the wires in the electrical box for the washer circuit. That is how I power monitor my mini split that is wired directly to 240v to the breaker box.
This one works with the community driver Tuya Zigbee Metering Plug. That driver will only do one channel, but that is all you need. It does require some wiring in the breaker box, to give it power. One wire to neutral bar, and a live wire to one of the existing 120v breakers.
Edit: The clamp has to go on one individual wire. As such, it will read 120v on one leg of the 240v circuit, but since you are using it as a trigger, you just need to see power rise and fall.
I have a zooz zen 15 appliance switch with power monitoring and a lg top load washer. ss mentioned unwill need to watch your usage and adjust for your washer but this is my rule that always works and my zooz settings .
A Zen15 isn't going to work, as the OP already noted - "I can't use a smart plug to monitor power, because I have one of those 3 prong 240v outlets (NEMA 10-30R)" - AKA, it's a 240V washer. Which isn't common, but I think that's going to be a bigger problem, versus the specific rule logic.
Hence folks are suggesting current monitor clamp solutions, to not have to deal with that voltage level - I think the best "turnkey" solution is Ashok's (@aaiyar) suggestion of the Aeotec 240V 40A device (which will require some wiring to install).
It appears that this device only accepts Romex, and not conduit (either rigid or flex). I hope I am wrong about that, but the instructions only show Romex, and the clamping system for the wires implies Romex.
That is a strange choice considering wiring must be protected from damage according to code, and that quite often means running it within conduit of some type.
Device "Washing machine done" is a virtual switch using the user Virtual Switch uDTH Lite device driver, author sab0276 (set preference as a contact sensor). That is shared to Amazon and triggers an Alexa announcement, "Washing machine done."
I recognize that the below is probably not 100% accurate due to it being AI, but it follows my experience exactly, and it also follows many online topics in various forums about protecting wiring from damage, and also what I have read in code.
If the below IS correct, it would seem that the most logical use of this device, mounted next to a dryer outlet (in conduit or otherwise) would make it subject to damage. I also don't understand how you would mount this and wire this if the receptacle is inside the wall, like there would be on a 2nd floor laundry.
The basement issue is a very common one in the USA, and from what I have seen sleeving the Romex in a short section of conduit and using a metal junction box bolted to the wall are fairly common if not in fact required by code. So you would have to transition from this surface mount dryer outlet to the Zooz device.
I am not sure how you would run Romex in and out of this device to code unless you mount it in/at the ceiling, or in some type of (NEC/code) rated electrical junction box.
Summary
Whether you’re finishing a basement or just adding a plug for a new power tool, the question of "exposed" Romex is one of the most common sources of confusion for DIYers and pros alike.
The short answer is: Yes, but with significant conditions.
In Michigan, which follows the National Electrical Code (NEC) —currently the 2023 edition for state-wide enforcement—the rules for Type NM (Non-Metallic) cable are found primarily in Article 334 .
1. The "Subject to Physical Damage" Rule
The most important factor is NEC 334.15(B). It states that Romex must be protected from physical damage.
What counts as "exposed"? If the wire is running along a wall or ceiling where it isn't behind drywall or plywood, it is considered exposed.
The Interpretation: This is where the local Michigan inspector has the final say. Generally, if the wire is high up on a ceiling or running along a joist in an attic, it’s fine. If it’s running down a wall in a garage or basement where someone could hit it with a shovel, hang a bike on it, or trip over it, it is not allowed to be exposed.
2. Running Romex Between Junction Boxes
If you are running Romex between two surface-mounted boxes (like metal Handy Boxes), you have two main options:
Following the Building Surface: You can staple the Romex directly to the wall or ceiling if it is not in a "high traffic" area. However, if it’s below a certain height (usually 7-8 feet) or in a vulnerable spot, you must protect it.
Using Conduit (The "Sleeve" Method): To meet code in vulnerable areas, you can run the Romex through a "sleeve" of EMT (Electrical Metallic Tubing) or PVC.
Note: You do not necessarily need to run the Romex all the way through the pipe if the pipe is just for protection, but you must use bushings at the ends of the pipe to prevent the metal edges from cutting the wire jacket.
3. Specific Michigan/NEC Requirements
Attics: In Michigan basements and attics, if you run Romex across the top of floor joists, you must protect it with "guard strips" (pieces of wood on either side) unless the attic is inaccessible.
Basements: If you are running Romex in an unfinished basement, you cannot "bridge" joists (running wire perpendicular through the air). You must either bore holes through the center of the joists or nail a "running board" (a 1x3 or 1x4 piece of wood) to the bottom of the joists and staple the wire to that.
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