OK if going into a in wall network enclosure, Cyberpower makes a "slim" version which might fit better assuming you have the space at the bottom. Saw this picture on Reddit:
We do have a whole home surge protector. This is what we have. Not sure if itβs any good or not. Also, does that actually protect your whole home from an actual EMP attack?! Or is that just the name? Haha
In theory, both. But the protection design is the same, get excess voltage/power to ground, ultra fast). The threat from an actual EMP is the power load inducted into nearby exposed (not faraday protected) power systems/lines. But in reality, most people's threat model is a hot utility supply, maybe a really bad solar flare (50-100 year event). At night where I live, when load drops, APS can deliver nominal spikes in the 255v range, split-phase trying to scale back power supply. That's more than most home electrical hardware, especially your solar management controller, is designed to handle.
Isn't that if you're running it at max capacity? Assuming Starlink is 100W and my Flint 2 is like 10W, I feel 8-10 minutes is more than enough time for the generator to kick on unless there was just something wrong with the generator.
When sizing a UPS, the detail they tend to bury in the documentation is its Power Factor (PF) which typically is around 60% for consumer grade devices. That factors in thus. VA X PF to get what the UPS will actually support. On the Box it may say 550 VA But in in reality you can expect it to supply closer to 330 watts. There are UPS with a PF of 1 available (Eaton) but they tend to be marketed towards commercial users ie Data Centers and such.
As to time, the batteries these days will supply full power for only like 5-10 minutes. Modern electronics have switching power supplies that convert the line power into the required DC values. It is common to see one supply able to be used in global markets so they can be fed with 50Hz-60 Hz, and 100 vac to 240 vac.
Ahhh okay. So, in this screenshot of a UPS, what I really care about is comparing the Watts to the power consumption of my devices (10W for router & 100W max for Starlink dish)? At less than half of the total, I can probably expect a 9+ minute run time, which would be more than enough for the generator to kick on then? I'm about to pull the trigger on this guy mostly for its size (needs to go in an in-wall network cabinet).
Too late for the OP, but I have a couple of TalentCells that power the hub, gateway, ZEN16(for the gate operator), and another router (needed to access an old version of EyezOn product.
Hub lasts for days; gateway, maybe 15 hours. This info came from actual tests, but lithium batteries fade over time, as I've experienced during an actual power outage. Periodic tests should be performed to assure capability. I'm due for one prior to winter-will I do it? Nah.
To attempt to lengthen their lives, I cycle the batteries by measuring current use when charging, and cutting off charging when, I figure, it gets to 80% capacity.
Perhaps the OP's choice with its lead acid (?) won't suffer the same fading effect? Also, perhaps won't burst into flames as the lithium's are wont to do. Hence the baking pan in the picture below, seeing as the components are on a wood floor in back of a comfy plush recliner, lol.
(Note: The Bluetti does not figure in my hub or gateway backup plans currently.)
edit: I also get notified if the charge time takes more than two hours, hopefully indicating the battery is starting to fade.
All rechargeable batteries fade over time. Lead acid is no exception. I've replaced the batteries in most of my UPS units as the runtime drops and in some cases the lead acid battery outright failed. I have quite a few UPS units throughout my home with replaced batteries. While lithium batteries are more prone to fade purely based on charge cycles, lead acid tends to fade most directly based on age, although charge cycles do play a role.
A quality charging system should manage the lithium battery's charge level for you preventing over charge and floating at a level that maximizes battery life. Of course if you have a DIY charging circuit/system, all bets are off.
How often do you recharge your batteries? I got some of those Tenavolt 1.5V rechargeable batteries for our smart locks and was just curious how often you recharged them when unused.
I use one of these WPG mini UPS it plugs inbetween a 12v PSU and the hubitat itself (use a USB cable in the 5V USB port). Works fine, runs the Hubitat for ages if the power goes out. I see there is now a new USB-C version.