Do you then pair the dimmer with an app like "mirror me" to get it to work as a controller? What is the response time like when you make changes?
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Use Switch Binding with mine, works really well 
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Sorry. Don’t see the rest.
I find them very quick, and haven’t had any drop either. I think the only negative thing I can say about them is the battery life doesn’t seem great. That said, they’re using the dirt cheap Ikea CR232s, I changed one the other day and put an Eveready in, I’m hoping this will be better
Great things to use for bedside lamps etc. I hate fiddling around for those inline switches.
Roy is this DH updated from back in the June/July timeframe? any value in updating?
Thanks!
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No it’s still the same 
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These are like a buck 99 this week getting a half a dozen!
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Where? online or only in-store?
I was in a store today looking for the new blinds..they didn't have any...but i took a half dozen of these for 2 bucks each!
Originally posted on another thread.
I have to start out with a big shout out to you guys who pave the way for automation enthusiasts like me. I understand the relationships and the protocols but don't ask me to code....so greatly appreciate the code you guys post.
I bought 6 of the ikea dimmer pucks today as they were basically giving them away ( 1.99) and from posts on the community from you, Royski and Ryan 780 i was able to get the device paired and binded.
It's not working too well at the moment. Paired before i could even press the button, the instructions were easy to follow for the apps code and the binding was simple. I binded the puck to a jasco / GE dimmer. The light is pretty jittery after i binded to the puck. Going to try another dimmer in the house at some point but even if this doesnt work...it was only 12 bucks and a great experiment to learn how to maximize the power of this system.
Will post this again on another thread from Royski to also show my appreciation.
Appreciate all the info you guys post.
Cheers
Mac
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What do you mean by that? How are you "binding" the tow together?
Update: From what I have seen of the community drivers for this device, that's the way it's going to work. It would have been easier if the person who wrote it has exposed the rotate right, rotate left and stop rotating as 3 different button presses, then you could use the startChangingLevel and stopChaningLevel commands. That's how the new driver for the Symfondsk remote works. But instead, they have the dimmer creating a virtual device with a level of it's own that you're trying to match to. If that level changes too rapidly, then when you match the level to your real device the level is going to change at whatever rate that device is set to "ramp" by. The only option would be to make the level adjustments of the remote smaller so there are more frequent jumps in level or change the fade time for the real device that you are controlling. Unfortunately, the GE dimmers do not give you the option to change the ramp speed with commands from the hub. So you're pretty much out of luck unfortunately.
Switch binding. I followed a post from Royski that lead me to this.
Regards. Mac
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Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. For all the reasons I posted above, there's nothing that can be done to get it to transition more gracefully for your GE Dimmers. Set level for those is an instant change.
I might try them as a seitch vs dimmer. Or try a different dimmer. Was looking for a resonnto try zooz.
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The dimmer is very jittery. more due to just how sensitive these little buggers are. I do prefer them as a switch, as this is much easier to use day to day.
But even as a switch, you only need to twist them a little for them to work. Too fast, and it can be too much
Ok, I've been playing with the puck for a couple days. Such an interesting device. Very Swedish.
Here's the short version for anyone who doesn't want to read a technical post: The driver needs some updates to make it work well as a dimmer control in Hubitat. I'm working on it now.
Now, the long version:
So interesting that they are magnetic! I wasn't expecting that. So Swedish.
You don't actually have to use them on the magnetic base. They work by measuring an internal accelerometer. (This ends up having some implications. The internal firmware is having to make a determination about your accelerometer movements to decide whether you intend to fade, or you intend to switch on/off. So you have to train your hand a little bit to make the two types of motions distinct.)
I tested it out using both the switch and dimmer drivers posted above. I believe @Royski converted them over from work someone else had done on Smartthings?
I found that the switch driver worked pretty well. To do an on or off, I had to make a fast/big motion on the puck. Once I got used to that motion, the puck was 99% reliable, and if I used Switch Bindings to bind it to one of my smart switches, it worked very well.
The dimmer driver didn't work so well. Here's what I found:
- Big/fast motions for on/off mostly worked.
- Slow or small fade motions were hit and miss. Even if I got rid of Switch Bindings and just watched the device page for the puck, its level changes did not seem to match what I expected. Sometimes it would go up or down, and sometimes it wouldn't. And if I very smoothly kept turning it, it would make one fade step and then not continue fading.
- Then I started looking at the logs and saw the same thing.
- So then I started debugging the driver code so I could follow its flow.
- That's when I discovered that the puck is not sending messages continually as you slowly turn it. It sends one message when you start turning it, and one message when you stop turning it!
Presumably, since IKEA intended the puck to be bound directly to one of their bulbs, their bulb firmware is interpreting these start/stop commands in a satisfactory way, but the existing Hubitat driver was only using the start command to initiate a level step, and it was ignoring the stop command. This resulted in it only continually fading if you did lots of little start/stop movements with your hand.
So anyway, I'm working on the driver to make it continually fade up/down until you stop turning the puck.
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Update: I worked on the dimmer driver for a while last night and made a lot of progress. It's getting close and just needs a little tuning.
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Many thanks for your help on this
I'm still using many of these little pucks, but they are so, so jumpy as a dimmer, although I got by with them 
Having a better driver would be awesome!
Ok, I have a first version ready! Can you try this out and let me know how it works for you?
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I just paired one up, but not getting dimming.
Any tips?
dev:61172019-12-23 16:23:42.191 debug[raw:catchall: 0000 0006 00 00 0040 00 A91C 00 00 0000 00 00 01FDFF040101190000, profileId:0000, clusterId:0006, clusterInt:6, sourceEndpoint:00, destinationEndpoint:00, options:0040, messageType:00, dni:A91C, isClusterSpecific:false, isManufacturerSpecific:false, manufacturerId:0000, command:00, direction:00, data:[01, FD, FF, 04, 01, 01, 19, 00, 00]]
dev:61172019-12-23 16:23:42.186 warnDID NOT PARSE MESSAGE for description : catchall: 0000 0006 00 00 0040 00 A91C 00 00 0000 00 00 01FDFF040101190000
dev:61172019-12-23 16:22:21.584 warnEVENT [name:battery, value:17.0]
dev:61172019-12-23 16:21:51.632 warnEVENT [name:battery, value:10.5]
dev:61172019-12-23 16:21:19.623 debug[raw:catchall: 0000 0013 00 00 0040 00 A91C 00 00 0000 00 00 811CA92DDE2CFEFF570B0080, profileId:0000, clusterId:0013, clusterInt:19, sourceEndpoint:00, destinationEndpoint:00, options:0040, messageType:00, dni:A91C, isClusterSpecific:false, isManufacturerSpecific:false, manufacturerId:0000, command:00, direction:00, data:[81, 1C, A9, 2D, DE, 2C, FE, FF, 57, 0B, 00, 80]]
dev:61172019-12-23 16:21:19.620 warnDID NOT PARSE MESSAGE for description : catchall: 0000 0013 00 00 0040 00 A91C 00 00 0000 00 00 811CA92DDE2CFEFF570B0080
dev:61172019-12-23 16:19:48.540 warnEVENT [name:battery, value:8.0]
dev:61172019-12-23 16:19:03.035 debugConfigure
dev:61172019-12-23 16:19:00.039 warnClearStates(): Clearing device states
dev:61172019-12-23 16:18:33.406 warnEVENT [name:battery, value:30.0]Weird. I'll have to look into that. It's worked for @macdenewf and me, but I can think of a few possibilities:
- different firmware on different pucks
- some kind config/initialization step that happened on ours but not yours yet.
I'll dig into what those codes in your log mean.
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