@JohnRob - Glad to hear MonaLisa is working well for you. Quick question - are you simply using the onboard GPIO of the MonaLisa, or are you augmenting it with an Arduino for additional GPIO pins?
My arduino (NodeMCU) "listens in" on the messages from the alarm to the keypads. They are simple ASCII phrases. I convert them to something < 15 char and use the MonaLisa passthru capability to send them to the Hubitat. This application does not use any of the cc2530 capabilities other than the Zigbee radio and serial input.
Philosophically I decided not to allow communication (aka control) to the alarm panel, only reading the messages. And with a little obfuscation even those are useless to anyone "listening in"
The arduino code handles slowing down the keypad messages which occur at a 10 second rate. And handles any error messages or warnings like AC LOSS.
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Very nice.
I used one myself the other day. I attached it to an arduino and have it able to wake up my computer (acting as a virtual keyboard that can send key presses/releases). Then if I'm not home, I can wake it up remotely, and then get in via Chrome remote desktop.
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Is it possible with your firmware to put the cc2530 to sleep?
John
No. It is a "router" profile, which means it expects to always be awake and helps to route others' zigbee messages, just like the original ThingShield. It is not like meant for low power operations. It uses about 20mA, depending on what it's doing.
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PC Board design with protected I/O but without the "shield" connection functions.
I had such good luck with Dr Haas's board I decided to make a simple interface board. I stripped away the "shield" plugin capability and add some Input and output protection. This allowed me to drop the size to:
- Carrier board only: 34 mm X 58 mm
- Carrier board with cc2530 attached: 45 mm X 58 mm
I retained the LED's and the Zigbee repair button. But added:
- Two of the analog inputs have places for input dividers, RF filters and a transient filter.
- The other two only have dividers and RF filtering.
- Digital inputs have simple RF filtering.
I purchased my boards from OSHPark and have built and tested one. The components are surface mount as I find them easier than through holes. I realize not everyone is as comfortable as I am soldering small devices. But I like to keep compact "tight" designs.
I have not yet authorized release of the design by OSHPark but will do so if anyone is interested. I will also put up a BOM and Schematic. Neither of these are too exciting.
I've already posted the process I made to update the firmware on the cc2530 board using a nodeMCU board. This makes the process much easier as both are 3.3V boards so there is no level shifting required.
JohnRob
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Do you think it's possible to run the hass bord on battery? Also do we have the size of the hass board? I need to make a The battery operated temperature sensor for the lake. I don't have power on the dock.
The Haas board is 28 mm x 20 mm. The Haas board is only the green board shown in the above post. The purple board is my design.
The Haas firmware is set to make the device a repeater as well as and Zigbee communication. It draws a nearly constant 20 ma. It will not make a good battery operated sensor.
Why not the Aqara Temp sensor? Amazon Link. They are cheaper if you buy them on eBay or Bangood etc.
I don't know of any device that is battery operated and interfaces with a DS18B20. There used to be a contact sensor that would do this but they seem to be unavailable.
I know the Hubduino code with a nodeMCU board (WiFi) will interface with your sensor but it too is not meant for battery operation.
Perhaps a Solar panel and a local large battery?
DS18B20 can be connected with a long wire.
I personally run cat 5 wire of 10 feet with DS18D20. I also helped a member here who coincidently wire his DS18D20 to a lake. I think he run a longer wire than 10 feet. We are just using simple wiring.... nothing fancy.
I suspect that with CAT5 wire maybe a 100 feet wire should be do able. I have never tried it. At 100 feet, some care may have to be taken.
Here some documents on how to use DS18D20 with long wire. Guidelines for Reliable Long Line 1-Wire - Maxim Integrated
I hope it help if you are looking to wire solution.
Thanks for the info. I wish I could find one of these it would be perfect. https://www.climax.com.tw/new/tso-9-el-zb.php
Look at these #FGDW-002-1 to see if they will do what you want. They were hard to get but HD claims they have some.
HD as in homedepot? They don't have the right ones. I used to use the FIBARO FGK-101. Those allowed you to hook a up a sensor. Mine died thats why i am looking for a replacement
@mjruotolo, how about the Fibaro Implant FGBS-222 ? It supports up to 6 DS18B20 probes and can be powered by battery 9-30VDC. You could get 4 18650 Li-On batteries in a battery holder. Don't know how long the batteries would last but get a second set and a charger and replace them when needed just like any other battery powered.
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Is it possible to put this Mona Lisa shield on an Arduino Mega and send sketch data to the Hub? Data meaning sketch derived temperature, voltage, contacts, etc.. from sensors hooked up to the mega.
Mega data -> MonaLisa (ZigBee) -> Hub -> DH -> Hub Dashboard
Kinda like how Hubduino works but with Zigbee
Yup. It is a standard arduino shield. Fits the uno, and the mega is compatible too, I think. The mega just has extra pins.
Does the Mega sketch data pass thru serial to the Mona Lisa then out to the hub?
Yes. Have a look at the documentation. It was buried in this thread...
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Yes .... but.
You will have to format your data to be <15 characters and end with a . (period)
I am currently using one to send status messages to my hub and I'm working on another that will send distance measurements from an ultrasonic sensor to the hub.
My experience so far (probably a couple of months for the status message application) the devices are solid. But my WiFi based Hubduino was solid as well. I just prefer the Zigbee to WiFi.
