I have some lights on switched outlets that I'd like to automate by replacing the in-wall switch with one that has Z-Wave. A lot of switches seem to max out around 8 A, though I do see some basic 15 A models.
Does anyone have a setup like this?
This isn’t what you are asking but I have replaced a few switched outlets and their switches. I rewired the outlet and switch as always hot which is usually very easy to with a switch loop. You do need to replace the outlet if it’s been cut to allow for single outlet switching. My concern was someone else plugging a high current device into the outlet and frying the switch. Then I use a Zooz switch with local control turned off to control multiple lights (usually Zigbee) in the room.
Thank you for this suggestion. I will keep it in mind. Are the wires from the switch to the outlets capped?
First, I am not an electrician and if you’re not comfortable with wiring don’t attempt this by yourself. In my house the switched outlets use a switch loop using the plain black, white and bare copper (ground) wires. The power goes directly to the outlet and is then looped through the switch. What I do is replace the outlet (because only one plug of the two is switched, the connection between the upper and lower outlet is cut) and wire it like any other outlet which is hot all of the time. I then with short pigtails, connect the switch loop (wires going to the switch) so they too are always hot. Then I can wire a switch (I have been using the Zooz ZEN 26s) with the hot, neutral and ground but no load. You can use the button controller or direct Z-Wave association to turn on whatever you need. I have most of mine set up so that one tap of the top paddle turns on as subset of lights in the room and two taps turns on all of the lights in the room. For the bottom paddle one tap or two taps turns off all the lights. I have also done this with a ceiling fan w/light that is remote controlled and no longer required a switch. If you plan to go back to a regular switch, all of this will need to be undone or your switch will just be a circuit breaker tester.
I just installed a bunch of the GE/Jasco 46202's
The specs show 15 amps resistive: https://byjasco.com/mwdownloads/download/link/id/2041/
Several things that are nice is that they are shallow; you don't have to break off any tabs; you can mix up the line and load wires-it knows which is which; two wire inputs for each terminal so you can daisy chain-again a nice space saver; a blue configurable led, which I like (but others don't care about. They do need a neutral, which can be a problem. For three way switches, it uses an add-on switch.
edit: oops, I just saw you were switching outlets. I have a couple of those.
@nibyak Thanks, I forgot that switches can be wired with wired and neutral without connecting to load.
@velvetfoot Are your switched outlets on the 46202s?
Yes.
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