You can do the same thing in a DIY manner.
Simply take some zip cord (like speaker wire). Cut about 1/4" of insulation away at every foot (or more if you have the patience). String it as you would the Sinope and your good to go.
Would be best if you used wire that has been tinned. Maybe solder "tin" it where it is bare. Tin/lead is very good for corrosion.
I purchased the Neo Coolcam water sensor. Have not connected. My first impression is the housing is an ugly tan, cheap plastic color. But the contact pins are gold spring type and the remote looks well made.
These work well with the Neo Coolcam sensors. Both I and I think @danabw bought some...It's the same thing as the sinope one. So total for sensor plus this is $35.00
Yup, got two! One remote sensor did go bad after I let it soak in water for a few days accidentally (it was in my water softener salt tank as a low salt warning device). Resulted in constant "Wet" reporting so stopped using the remote sensor. The other (in my attic at very high temps in summer) is going strong many many months later.
I just use the probe that came with the sensor for my water softner... No issue as of yet... (I've let it soak a few days myself)
Well damn, functionally it more or less is ...although the sheathing isn't fibrous like that.
I'm feeling snookered having bought the other one !
I really wish we could build some sort of communal inventory of devices by function, protocol, version, and rankings that combine HE compatibility, reliability, and relative battery use (if applicable) so that one could "shop the HE Community List" first.
I think I've said it before; it might be "good marketing" if a vendor could attain a respectable-level-of-ranking from the HE Community, kinda like a "Seal of Approval".
It's really sensitive...
Corrected my post on this - it was the remote sensor that went south for me, not the main unit. I never got the remote sensor working again. I've just realized now I can't find the main unit, and fankly can't remember where it went. 
About to buy the cable @rlithgow1 and you are talking about.
So if I understand correctly....there's an element of "one time exposure" to these... or is it just that you immersed the cable for way longer than it could recover from.
I think the latter, it was in the water for days, as I had accidentally removed it from my leak automation. But my other has never been dunked, so ?
Since water sensors work by sensing the conductivity in the water (i.e. they will not detect distilled water, go ahead try it). When soaked for a long period of time I would guess the minerals in the water become more imbedded in the sensor. I'll guess once the minerals get into the fabric of the " First Alert 5 Foot Cable Sensor for L1" removing them is unlikely.
Yes, water leak sensors do work by conductivity, but some are extremely sensitive. I takes very little conductivity to trigger the device.
I have a reverse osmosis system (RO) that I use to provide water for my aquariums. It takes my tap water from 500 ppm TDS down to 20 ppm TDS. The TDS is measured using a conductivity meter. I presume the 20 ppm TDS is primarily due to dissolved CO2 in the water. That is sufficient for the leak sensor to work.
I use an Ecolink FLF-ZWAVE5 flood, freeze and leak sensor to shut off the RO system valve when the Rubbermaid Brute trash container is close to the top. I have the remote probe secured to the side of the trash can. Even though the TDS of the RO water is quite low, the sensor still works reliably. However, for safety I have another leak sensor on the floor next to the reservoir so it will shut off the main water valve to the house should there be an overflow. That happens about once a year, especially if I forget to change the battery in the Ecolink.
If my RO system had a deionization resin stage such that the water had zero TDS, then the sensor would not work.
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