Success! 0-10 Volt Control of AC Infinity (or any EC fan motor) using Leviton ZS057-D0Z Zigbee Dimmer

I've been looking for a solution to automate power and fan speed on a few AC Infinity EC fan motors and have been stumped for two reasons:

  1. AC infinity does not "support" any other control of their devices so did not provide any information.

  2. Qubino (which sells a 0-10V dimmer device) is only supported for EU zWave.

Enter the Leviton ZS057-D0Z which is sold as part of the "Illumina RF" wireless control line of Leviton controls. It's a 0-10V dimmer that is connected and installed as a standard 120V light switch. It has two extra wire leads for the 0-10V device to be controlled. What's not obvious, or listed anywhere, is that this device is actually a standard Zigbee device and can be paired to Hubitat (and I'm sure SmartThings). I purchased two of them from Aartech here in Canada...a great vendor to deal with for automation bits: ZS057-D0Z Leviton Lumina RF Decora, 0-10V Wall Dimmer, 2.4GHz - Aartech Canada

Terrabloom (I use one of their 6" EC fans for my kitchen exhaust fan, automated to the induction cook top) answered my queries with a basic "if it's designed to work as a 0-10V dimmer, it will work with their fans. Terrabloom does have a video on creating your own DIY speed control for their EC fans, but you'd be doing a custom Arduino board to do it. They do include a cable with their EC fans for DIY control, so you'd just need to connect two wires from that harness to do it if using the Leviton dimmer:

Leviton violet wire connects to Terrabloom blue
Leviton grey wire connects to Terrabloom black
The other Terrabloom wires are left disconnected (red and yellow)

terrabloom DIY

You just need to set the driver to "Generic Zigbee Dimmer" after inclusion to Hubitat.

Setting the level for the device in Hubitat then controls motor speed..and the setting is also reflected via the green LEDs on the Leviton Dimmer.

For AC Infinity fans like the Cloudline T6 fan fan pictured here, the connections are pretty simple.

Remove the 4 wires that connect to the AC Infinity remote control, and connect the Levition as below. You can check with a multimeter with the standard controller first to make sure you have the correct wires.

The AC Infinity wire colours (controller is disconnected in this photo) correspond as follows:

Red = +10 Volts to power controller (does not vary with motor speed changes)
Black = ground for +10 Volt power to controler (does not change with motor speed changes)
Yellow = + 0-10 V signal to control motor speed.
White = ground for 0-10 V motor speed control.

Leviton Violet goes to AC Infinity Yellow terminal (pictured below)
Leviton Grey wire goes to AC Infinity White terminal (pictured below)

You could also disconnect the AC infinity power cord (same connection box as above) and power the fan directly from the Leviton switch, respecting code requirements for your area.

I suspect a lot of folks with these fans will want control via Hubitat and/or Smarthings ...so there you go :slight_smile:

I'm working on an HRV ventilator that can be controlled dynamically to provide make up air with kitchen exhaust fan use (already automated), vary speed on occupancy and potentially avoid defrost cycles by ramping exhaust over intake when the core temperature drops. Staging here to figure out the package sizing, filtration (MERV 13 via 14x14x4 inline filter). I've also got a solution for filtering wild fire smoke using an internal carbon canister. The OEM motors and housing have been removed from this HRV, hence the external EC fans.

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Here are the settings on the Leviton driver that correspond to about "half" speed on the AC Infinity controller. I'm finding the comparitive scale on the Leviton units much lower, as you can see by the driver numerical level setting (12=exhaust fan and 30=intake fan) that correspond to 60 CFM measured flow over the HRV core. In other words, the settings 12/100 and 30/100 on the Leviton Dimmer, correspond to settings 5/10 and 6/10 on the AC Infinity controller.

Any thoughts on perhaps a resistor on the Leviton 0-10V signal wires to increase the scale so say 50% is actually 50% motor speed? It's not an issue for automation (as you have 0-99 levels to choose from) but it is if you plan on adjusting speed manually via the 10 step dimmer on the physical switch.

I may have a sink vs source issue: https://assets.lutron.com/a/documents/048587_Web.pdf

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Awesome work.

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Thanks @velvetfoot :slight_smile:

I've got the system shoehorned into place, with a lot of clean up work to do. The good news is that CO2 levels in our home (100 year old house with extensive energy retrofitting) dropped from a morning high of 1700 PPM to less than 800 pretty much overnight.

I've mapped out the fresh air /exhaust air EC motors to the balancing chart on the HRV so can use these motor (dimmer) settings to dial in the motors to different CFM values.

The integration with the kitchen exhaust hood (also an EC inline fan) works awesome so HRV ventilaton rates are mapped to the kitchen exhaust hood fan. Using the induction cooktop triggers the kitchen exhaust fan, which in turn sets the HRV to accelerating CFM settings. It's awesome :slight_smile:

This is a mess, but it works. Some more tweaking to do..

This is the balancing chart that is now correlated to motor speeds.


There are still many hours of work to frame the opening, make a door, and install wiring, switches etc.

Having sensors on all four air streams makes for some interesting experiments. For example, if you ramp exhaust right up and drop the fresh air motor CFM down, you can get some crazy efficiency numbers. 95 % efficiency is pretty much impossible with an air exchanger, unless you unbalance as I did here. The warm "stale" air is flowing out through the core at a much faster rate than the fresh air cold air coming in, hence the 95% efficiency measurement!

Awesome. While this is mostly above my head, I believe I have a mixing valve that I installed on the exit pipe from my pellet boiler buffer tank (memory is fading over time, lol) that is 0-10 volt controlled. I installed a honeywell, I think, controller to control the valve based on a couple of temperature inputs. I just remember when I was looking into it, that 0-10 volt control is used a lot, so your work is useful. I still have trepidation about using Hubitat for mission critical stuff, but it doesn't seem that anything catastrophic would happen in your case.

I may have missed it, but what are you using for air temp sensing in your various streams? That could be critical if it's not timely.

Are you in a radon zone? That's a whole other thing, though related. I'm not sure if my Fantech fan has an ECM motor, but it's only 15 watts anyway. My boiler circ pumps are all ECM now, and I think they might be able to be controlled by 0-10 volts.

I once had an overhead fan with an ECM motor. I wonder if that could've been controlled by 0-10 v.

Anyway, I'm probably way off base.

Excellent work.

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@Velvetfoot , the 0-10 V thing is a big one I think as there were precisely zero solutions for zWave or Zigbee control aside from the Leviton product which (up to now anyway) was never documented :slight_smile:

I do have DS18B20 sensors in each of the four air streams as you can see below:

I have a virtual Temp sensor which calculates live ERV efficiency values based on those temps, bottom left in the pic. There are also a few more sensors (like the Pool - Air temp) which are used in summer to control my pool solar heating system. That one gives me outside ambient temps, which correspond pretty closely with the "ERV Exterior Intake Air Temp".

If the device has 0-10v control, you can likely use the Levition 0-10V dimmer to control it. Radon is a not a big issue for most here, but regardless, you don't want a house under negative pressure (pulling air in) particularly in very cold temps. Controlling your HRV this way (with two ECM motors) allows you to "add" some air into the house when for example the kitchen exhaust fan is fired up.

You're not off base at all..you get it :slight_smile: To me, having an option for 0-10V control that can integrate with Hubitat or Smarthings has a lot of possible uses here in NA for smarter homes. That's why I was pretty stoked to get this working.

In general, you want air coming inside the house via an HRV/ERV to match air leaving. The magnehelic differential gauge lets you measure that using the HRV door ports. You use the balancing chart that is posted on your HRV/ERV to convert the magnehelic readings to CFM. I just tweak the motor speeds (via Hubitat) until the magnehelic (inches of water) reading matches the chart for my target CFM readings. Hope that makes sense.

I'm no expert...just learning as I go along :slight_smile:

image

In Hubitat I've created several scenes like this one which set the intake/exhaust motors for balanced air flow. The intake has to work much harder than the exhaust due to the HRV core design, filtration, etc. Level 40 on intake with level 25 on exhaust (the current setting) works out to a balanced 55 CFM.

Fireplaces or wood burning appliances can be a challenge in a "tight" home, but controlling ventilation via ECM motor control means you can add some air for example when a temp sensor triggers an automation. In my case, I would ramp up the intake fan (so deliberately unbalance) the HRV to replace air leaving the home via the fireplace. This in turn can eliminate back drafting when you load wood etc. I have that exact scenario working now when the kitchen hood exhaust fan automation is triggered by the induction cook top (power use) detected.

Kitchen hoods, HRV/ERV, bath fans etc. only work when people use them...so automation can make a big difference in these situations to keep interior air quality where it should be.

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I replaced the HRV intake 4" fan with a 6" EC fan, also from Fantech. It's their cheaper EC fan, which as far as I'm concerned is 100% ok. The motor mount is plastic, and it does not have the connecting block as I've pictured in post #1 for the S4 (more expensive fan).

https://acinfinity.com/inline-duct-fans-lite/

The one gotcha, is that you'll need to cut off the USB-C type connector on this fan to expose the four wires. The included Molex connector does not have pin 4 connected internally, which you need. If you cut the USB C off, you'll see the four wire colours

AC Infinity Yellow to Leviton Violet
AC infintity White to Leviton Grey
AC infinity red and black not connected.

As far as I can tell, this fan is identical to the more expensive ones, but a cheaper case.

I've officially applied for "extreme project rabbit hole" therapy :slight_smile:

I'm finally wrapping things up with this project having run the HRV drain hose (to a nearby laundry drain), done the rough wiring and installed inline electric heaters to condition cooler supply air. The Hubitat hub is running the show pretty much completely.

In normal operation, total power use is about 28 watts for the two EC fans (in the 50 CFM profile), and I'm adding in about 150 watts of post-heat when outside temps drop below 25 F. One of the perks of a system like this is that when the system calls for 60, 75 or 90 CFM, the EC motors are dialled up individually based on actual flow testing at the HRV.

Two zigbee dimmer modules limit power to the heaters, modulating their output based on supply and delivery temps. It's a pretty slick setup.

Still lots of work to do, but the EC fan control switches and inline heater switches are wired up (under the welcome sign). They allow manual control if required. The missus is not a fan of visible technology so a sweater or two on the hooks will hide the switches. They are managed by automation so if someone hits a switch, it won't be an issue. I want them there so I can give them a quick visual to make sure all it working as advertised. If the automation system is off for some reason, the switches can control the system as well.

The inline heaters can raise the fresh air supply temps 40 F, but the typical requirement will be about 10-15 F as outside temps fall below -10 F. I ended up doing this as the fresh air "dump" is into our main living area and even at 80% efficiency, with outside temps dipping well below freezing, the supply temps tend to cool down the space.

There are five levels of safety built in to the heating setup: 1. The PTC heater by design uses less power as it heats up. 2. If the unit itself exceeds 220 F or so, the integrated thermal switch turns it off. 3. I've added thermal fuses inline in the junction box for the housing 4. The remote bulb line level thermostat cuts power if the heater housing hits 70F 5. The automation system modulates power and turns on/off the heaters based on the HRV mode.

Finally, I've added manual switches to cut power if needed.

These PTC heaters are all of $17 each.

This remote bulb (part number A19ABC-12C) line level thermostat can manage the heaters just fine if required. Right now it's just there as a third level of safety. If the housing exceeds 70 F, power is cut to the system. It's 100% old school manual, so no power is required to operate it.

The automation bits are all working surprising well. The system defrosts itself depending on outside temps which amounts now to this routine:

  1. Close outside air dampers (which opens internal recirc damper)
  2. Switch to the 75 CFM profile for x minutes (based on outside temps) to warm up the unit/core.
  3. Stop for a minute (to allow any water to drain with neutral air pressures inside the HRV)
  4. Open the dampers and dial back the EC motors (mainly to 50 CFM).
  5. Turn on and modulate the inline heaters if required.

Everything is done in Rule Machine 5.1

Now I have to make it all pretty :slight_smile:

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Wow!

You better hope Hubitat doesn't go out of business, lol.

I've done similar with Smarthings (webcore), Vera etc.

But ya, I had to port over from ST to HE based on the whole groovy thing. I relax a bit more knowing HE is local for execution. If all else fails, the system can be adjusted via the dimmer/switches and run 100% without automation. The only bits left really of the original HRV is the damper system and temperature sensor. I've unplugged the temp sensor and installed a 10K resistor instead so it thinks it's warm outside. If I plug the thermister (sensor) back in, it will do the defrost thing based on jumper settings.

#rabbithole #needtherapy #haha.

A final plug for Terrabloom's customer service. I'm using a 6" EC fan from them in my kitchen exhaust which just started running full tilt 100% of the time when the system powers it up. The controller is ignored. One email and I have a track already for a new unit. Nicely done!

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