Yes and my window sensors individually read about 20 degrees warmer (or colder depending the season) then the interior sensors, my house is the worst at "efficiency"
Which means the HVAC runs longer to accommodate the sensors in that room not adjusting as fast as the sensors in the other parts of the house. Using a house average reading compensates for this. Adjusting your house average on/off point just .25 degrees makes a big difference.
This is solved by the window sensors raising much faster then the actual room sensors when the sun is shining on them, causing "the average temp" to increase even though the actual interior temp hasn't increased much yet.
Yes I also have a fireplace that this same setup runs the fireplace blower ducted to the whole house via node red and automatically switches to the central hvac when the fire gets to cold over night.
Suppose that a room with many south facing windows represents 25% of the heating load at night. On a sunny day, it might represent 10% of the heating load. If there is no zoning, it would get the same percentage of the heat from the furnace in both circumstances. If your setup adjusts the total amount of heating so that the room is properly served in both cases, then the other rooms will be too warm at night and too cold on sunny days. If it adjusts the total heating so that the other rooms are properly served in both cases, then the sunny room will be too warm on sunny days and too cold at night. If the balance between rooms changes, you can't fix that by adjusting the total. You have to adjust the balance.
I am not saying that your setup doesn't work for your house. I am just questioning whether it is a generalizable solution for others.
Your assumptions are not taking into consideration that the sensors on the hot end of the house increase faster when the sunlight is present then the cool end of the house causing the HVAC to trigger on sooner had no sunlight been present because those sunlight sensors increase the "average" . Which means when the HVAC is running and cooling it down, the sensors on the cool end drop faster then the hot end due to the lack of sunlight allowing them to cool faster then those in sunlight. Which triggers the adjustment in the "average" in the opposite direction.
If you don't think it won't work by all means skip trying it.
Your comments about what sensors are doing doesn't address my point. Unless the HVAC comes on in the cold part of the house without also coming on proportionately in the warm part of the house, then the warm part of the house will get even warmer. If the living room is warm and the bedroom is cold, there is nothing you can do with sensors that will allow you to solve that problem by sending heat to both rooms or to neither room.
More generally, any control system will perform badly if it lacks either suitable sensors or suitable actuators. If the problem is insufficient actuators, you can't fix it by adding sensors and vice versa.
As previously stated: 1983 2000sqft house with 1983 single pane windows and insulation. ZERO trees for blocking the heat gain from sunlight to provide shade Today hit 102 degree heat index and almost full sun the entire day as you can see in the lower chart.
The upper chart shows each of the 5 main rooms temperature average, one room occasionally switched spots with other rooms throughout the day, but NO room was at any time more than 2.1 degree warmer or colder then the hottest to the coldest room.
Zoning is not needed on a single story house, using home automation, temperature averaging, and one time vent adjustments..
If I can make a few suggestions which may help others:
If you have manual duct dampers, you may need to adjust them close/open for different seasons. For example, I have one short duct run in my basement where my HVAC equipment is located and hence tends to run either very hot or very cold as air pressure takes the path of least resistance first.
If you have older windows, it’s worth purchasing reflective window film. It actually makes a huge difference in comfort.
I don’t know your budget, but it may be worthwhile to purchase a FLIR unit for older homes if you’re willing to find major sources of leaks and address them.
4 it takes some trial and error/tweaking, but finding the sweet spot with the app offsets with Keen vents helps tremendously.
I regularly check battery levels as a drained vent can greatly impact airflow to other rooms.
I also use my fan run time feature to help circulate air in the winter through my filters and for better balance, but reduce this fan circulation run time in the summer for humidity evaporation.
