I like and use the Lutron Caseta switches in my own home, but I did want to also mention that some of the newest Z wave in the wall micros have models which do not require a neutral wire, including Fibaro and the Aeotec nano, so that now Will give you some additional options. You can then choose whatever dumb switches you want to use with them. However, check the specs for each individual model as they do vary and some will also require an additional device, a "bypass," which adds some cost and complexity.
So I would personally recommend the Casetas as I really do like them, but if you want a different style of switch for aesthetic reasons, the zwave micros are definitely worth considering.
In regards to the Casetas … has anyone here done the migration from the Caseta Bridge to the Smart Bridge Pro?
I will need to do this to move my switches over to Hubitat and wanted to know if there are any gotchas to keep a look out for … unpairing picos from physical switches etc etc etc
You have to delete your old caseta account and create a new one with the new bridge. Deleting the account removes all the pairings as well.
Thanks @oldernstone - Was hoping to do this in phases to not overly break things (or piss off my better half)
- Stand up new Bridge - create new account
- Unpair/Remove a room from the Caseta Bridge and ST
- Pair that room with Smart Bridge Pro and Hubitat
- Cross Fingers and hope it works
- wash rinse repeat until such a time as I can take my ST Hub outside for skeet practice
I have a bunch of 3way switches where the Pico is paired to a physical switch - does removing the physical caseta switch from the bridge unpair the pico, or does that need to be manually done before I join it to the SBP?
It’s beneficial to pair the picos directly to Hubitat because then you can specify long press actions. I have short press on/off control a single dimmer, and long press on/off control a set. My bedroom pico turns off every smart dimmer and light in the house on long press.
You can put any caseta device in pairing mode by long pressing off (10+ seconds)
I double checked and I have the picos both assigned to a dimmer in Lutron app AND custom long-press commands assigned in Button Controller. The advantage of this way is you still have working light switches if for some reason Hubitat stops working, or your network goes down etc. The downside is you can’t assign a longpress function to the dim up/down buttons without a conflict (both the paired device will dim and the function assigned will trigger)
If you don’t have it already, install ABC from @stephack
Makes setup so much faster and easier.
For LED control go with Lutron Caseta. For non LED there’s a couple offerings by Jasco/GE and by Leviton
Do you have more specific information about which do not require a neutral wire? Everything on the Jasco/GE page requires neutral. I’ve heard that some older models do not require neutral, but haven’t had much luck finding those.
Eaton Cooper 9534 (incandescent or Halogen bulbs only)
GE/Jasco 14299 ( The only Z wave plus Switch model I'm aware of that doesn't require a neutral, again works with incandescent or Halogen only )
Some models of the Aeotec nano in wall micros And the Fibaro in wall micros don't require a neutral, although they may require an additional bypass device if the total wattage is low. These will usually work with dimmable LEDs, but you may have to adjust the parameters to illuminate flickering.
Or, as has been mentioned, most models of the Lutron Caseta line do not require a neutral. These will work with dimmable LEDs.
So those are the main choices right now. There's also a Leviton zigbee on/off switch that does not require a neutral, but it's very expensive and I don't know if it works with Hubitat.
In case you need the bypass module, the Aeotec are less expensive. As most here are subtly warning, dimming standard LED is tough to get just the right combination, especially when you don’t have a neutral wire. Even with the Caséta dimmers that are very forgiving, not all combinations work well.
But this is Hubitat! You don’t have to worry about the cloud going down or a flakey ISP preventing you from turning your lights on. I would never have recommended this before, but I would be confident now in going with a Smart Bridge Pro and Pico, with no physical switch. For me personally, all my dimmable LED are smart bulbs. I have tinnitus and cannot stand the additional ringing on top of what I already have to deal with. Smart bulbs have been very helpful to me. Absolutely silent. The HOT and Load are wired together in my house, and Picos are over the box (or Lutron Connected Bulb Remote for some of them). Hard to tell it’s not a wired switch, and you can put in hidden hold sequences with Hubitat and Pico. Can’t do that with all smart switches.
If you have a lot of bulbs to control from one switch, it can get expensive. I get it. Ikea Trådfri bulbs are decent and relatively inexpensive. Sengled aren’t too bad either, but given the choice, I prefer Trådfri for a budget smart bulb. If you’re not in a hurry, you can also get low cost E12 and GU10 converters. That will allow you to use the $7 and $8 Trådfri bulbs where appropriate, if you’re dealing with E26 sockets.
Getting the Caseta/LED combo right is a real PITA … I’ve spent more I think on bulbs that buzzed than I have on switches
The Lutron bulb finder is next to worthless as manufacturers change their model#s too often for Lutron to keep up to date.
I’d love to know what bulbs that are currently sold people have found to work w.out buzzing for Caseta…
Philips Warm Glow LED bulbs dim down to about 5% on Caseta, no buzzing, no flickering. That’s with 2 bulbs on a single dimmer.
For other lower wattage loads, getting a few LUT-MLC devices will help. They’re a resistor/capacitor series device that eats up the bounce that happens with caseta dimmers that can cause low wattage lights to turn on and off several times before staying on solid. Anything under 25W should have a LUT-MLC installed from the hot to the neutral somewhere in the switched section. I put 'em in the last light of a series, but it doesn’t specifically matter where, as long as they’re from the switched power to neutral.
The LUT-MLC were ~$6.50 canadian at a wholesaler.
I have 2 old GE/Jasco 45639/ZW3003 dimmers if anyone wants/needs them. One is unopened and in the old “blister”/clamshell plastic packaging and another is used for about 6 months but still working fine as I replaced it with an on/off switch. These will only work with halogen and incandescent bulbs.
I paid $15 for each of them when Lowe’s was dumping the clamshell packaged ones. Please PM me if interested.
This is exactly my setup, I have picos (almost 50 of them) covering aeon v2 micros.
Couldn’t agree more. However, the hub does become the single point of potential failure, so I wouldn’t do this for anyone else without a spare hub on hand. The cost is so low, it makes a lot of sense to have an extra.
I know this is an older post but I'm new.
Can someone provide a link to where I can buy the Lutron PD-5WCL I tried searching for it but every Lutron smart switch I see requires a neutral, except a dimmer switch (but I don't want a dimmer since the light I'm controlling is a ceiling fan/light combo and I read you can't use dimmers on fans).
All the switches (non-dimmers) require a neutral. However, you can use a dimmer on a fan if you separate out the wiring for the lights from the fan wiring. If you can do it, I'd put in a two gang box (if you have a single right now) and have two switches; One for the fan and one for the lights.
Or, alternatively (and probably the better solution), you could get the Hampton Bay controller (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Universal-Wink-Enabled-White-Ceiling-Fan-Premier-Remote-Control-99432/206591100) and either the built-in driver or this one: Hampton Bay Zigbee Fan Controller Driver (with Component Devices)
You will have to go through a Lutron dealer or electrical supply that will sell to consumers. Here's a link to what you're looking for. Take note the part number is different than what you listed but it's a Caseta Pro 2 wire switch.
This PDF describes the differences between the PD-5WS-DV and the PD-6ANS
This is not true. The PD-5WS-DV that others linked to above is a simple on/off switch that doesn’t require a neutral wire. I have several, with no neutrals in my switch boxes. And I’m pretty sure it’s available on amazon (or at least it has been in the past).