Glad to hear things are starting to ease up for you. For the switches that you can't kill a circuit, if they have an air gap you can pull that and that's the same thing as taking them off the circuit and then you can remove them.
2 Likes
Thanks for that tip, I’ll do that now
2 Likes
So I’m not having any luck with these last 3 ghosts. They are listed as “SPECIFIC_TYPE_POWER_SWITCH_BINARY” I am guessing these are light switches. I have all the breakers off in my house except for the ones I need to power my hub and my network equipment, I’ve pulled air gaps on all the switches that still have power, and unplugged all wall wort devices.
Now I get this message when I click “is failed” or “nop” like it’s not contacting the hub.
That is a new one to me. Taking a few other, smarter folks to see if they have any ideas.
I’m guessing the stick is able to communicate with the ghost still, might try wrapping the stick in aluminum foil to block the signal.
2 Likes
Yeah that sounds strange - maybe your air-gapped switch only cuts power to the load?? --> this is a silly thought apologies!!
I think @thebearmay's idea is worth a try.
I might click on the Pc Controller device, then in the bottom right frame click on "update" button to refresh the controller with the Hub info (Gateway).
Another thought would be to exclude the stick and reinclude it again for giggles. You do this by starting the "remove" process from the HE device page then in the PCS clicking on "Select Learn Mode" / NWE...
Yet another thought is to reboot your hub to clear out any cobwebs and maybe try another removal from there.. My usual would be to suggest the old power pull / wait but it seems like this might actually not be necessary according to staff member Bryan the resident Z-Wave expert and all around good doobie..
1 Like
Side question, I have never been able to get my Schlage FE599 to pair to HE, there has been a couple times we’re it starts to initialize, but it never finishes. Can I use the z-stick and the PC controller to bring it into HE? Will it still work after the z-stick is removed from the HE? I have my old ST hub still, and I have thought about pairing a couple repeaters and the lock to it, and bringing it in via Hubconnect, but I’d like to avoid that. Right now I’m using Hubconnect, but just so that I can use the device buttons on my Harmony remotes, which it looks like there is a way to do this in HE now, and to bring in my SmartDry so that I can run a webCoRE piston that marks my dryer as running, and the washer as empty. I have GE smart appliances, so I’m hoping that now that they have released an API, someone can create a way to bring that all into HE natively. Right now I have a power sensor to mark the washer as running, and a SmartDry to mark the dryer as running, and use a virtual switch linked to IFTTT then to the GE connect to mark them as done. The less platform hood I have to make, the better in my view. I had to switch my Alarm.com integration to Alexa, FrontPoint called me and said I had to stop using the HE smart app because it was against the TOS and was making to many calls to their server, and I use Alexa to activate my Ecovac vacuums.
Pairing it with the stick should work. You’ll have to pair S0 as it’s a perimeter device, but it should still work after removing the stick.
1 Like
I tried to use the community Harmony integration for device buttons a few weeks back, and it doesn't appear to be working anymore. I think it's more about something Harmony has disabled then there being a problem with the Harmony integration.
What do you mean by device buttons? i use it for the main activities and it is still.working fine ie turn on xxxx also pause xxx etc.
They have a version of the remote that has additional smart home device buttons at the very top that were added to allow controlling devices like hue lights which were supported by Harmony.
Or maybe likely you're aware of that and are asking something different?
Still working still working great for me! 
1 Like
Yeah, as I understood it works if already set up, but it would not setup for me when I tried a few weeks ago, repeatedly.
Have you tried to set it to from scratch reverently?
Not recently. It’s been working fine for quite a while now, and I am not going to risk breaking it.
1 Like
Actually on the very old non plus GE switches the air gap did not cut power to the Zwave radio, only the switch. So you had to use the breaker.
3 Likes
I had no idea, thanks for sharing that. Any idea how to ID which older switches worked that way...I still have a few GE Z-Wave switches that keep working fine so I haven't replaced them. Be good to know when I'm getting ready to replace them if I have to take "extra measures" to remove them from my mesh.
The blue LED is much larger on these older switches.
1 Like
A happy surprise today...based on @jonkdugan's success setting up the Harmony device buttons I tried again this morning and it worked...the part where it had been failing (authorization in the Harmony app) succeeded. Must have been a temporary issue w/Harmony servers when I tried several weeks back. Glad that his activity spurred me to try again!
So things look good, your (very cool) integration is still healthy. 
3 Likes
ya i have the harmony one lcd but dont use any of the smart device stuff as all can be controlled directly with hubitat.. what do you need the remote to control that cannot be done with hubitat directly.
1 Like
Use case for me is sitting on the couch w/wife in our bedroom watching TV, and want to turn off one of the bedroom lights that she has left on. (You can track her progress through our home by following the trail of lights that she has left on, drives me absolutely crazy, but have not been able to break her of this bad habit.)
So I can hit the Device buttons on the TV remote (which is already in hand/close to hand) to turn off any of the bedroom lights that are annoying me. Simpler/easier than fishing out my phone to do so, and we don't have any GH or Alexas anywhere but the family room, so no voice options.
2 Likes
