@bertabcd1234 , for the dimmer, it's my fault. I thought it was not paired and I tried re-pairing it. didn't worked so I factory reset the dimmer and paired it. so I now have the "old" one as a ghost. but the device is still there. so could I exclude the "new" dimmer and hit Discover on the "old/ghost" dimmer?
ok and I tried shutdown the hub. once the led is red, unplug power.
then unplug power on door lock and airgap the dimmer.
then more the hub somewhere else, more centered in the house (I also did the external antenna mod which helps a lot for signal.)
powered on the hub
now I have the remove button on every ghost devices, but after 5-6 attempt on each, nothing.
ill check the USB thing procedure. but I might just factory default everything and start from scratch. sigh
You cannot, unfortunately. Every time you reset a Z-Wave device, the radio on the device creates a new ID, thus the hub sees it as a brand new device, after each reset.
Just give it time, the hub's radio will eventually mark it as failed and then the remove button on Z-Wave Details page will work.
Thanks Bobby, IT and patience are 2 things that dont work together... lol
but ill try... 
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I know, that's why you see many folks jumping on the Z Stick. It gets the job done instantly. But I can tell you that in 10 years of working with Z-Wave, I didn't have to use a Z Stick to remove a ghost, once. That doesn't mean I don't have one ready to go
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"That doesn't mean I don't have one ready to go"
just bought one on amazon... lol
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but im starting to question if it really has an impact.
I tried an "all on" scene while the dimmer had the airgap. took a very long time to turn everything on. then I push the pin to get the dimmer back to life, and called the all on scene again. was decently fast. (considering I have 350ms metering)
I dont have 10 years of experiance, but 3 months and 3 houses experiance, but that's what I have seen so far. will still try to get rid of ghost...
Battery-powered "ghosts" shouldn't really be a problem, from what I recall reading; the main issue is mains-powered "ghosts," presumably because they can serve as repeaters and can cause wonkiness if they aren't actually present. Your lock, being battery powered, is not a repeater (though it's a bit less passive than most battery-powered Z-Wave devices given that it's always listening for "beams" to wake it up--it needs to hear commands to lock/unlock as they happen, for example, not hours later at its next wakeup like you'd have to do for most sensors; but I still don't think this matters). I'd still try to get rid of them, but again, as far as I know, I think powered "ghosts" are the ones with the potential to actually be a problem--so if you have a "ghost" dimmer, that could be one.
The issue with the delay while air-gapped could be due to the use of that device as a repeater, so when it wasn't available, alternate routes had to be tried or discovered. The Settings > Z-Wave Details page also shows route information (among other things that can be helpful for diagnostics), though since it seems to work OK when you have that device powered, I suppose that would just be more for curiosity at this point. 
@user139 - To extend Robert's comments about battery powered Z-Wave devices, big problems can occur w/Z-Wave devices if their batteries die...I recently had an incident due to a Z-Wave thermostat going dead that took my Z-Wave mesh to its knees. So you definitely don't want to have a Z-Wave device w/a dead battery on your mesh.
But, as @bertabcd1234 notes above, having a battery powered Z-Wave device ghost may not cause big problems due to the issues he notes. You will also see battery powered Z-Wave devices in your Z-Wave Details page that may not show routing on and off, also not a huge concern. Even mains powered Z-Wave devices can sometimes not show routing temporarily.
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That will not power down the z-wave in the switch in most cases. I would throw the breaker for that switch, do a 5 min power cycle on the hub (shut down, unplug for 5 mins power back up) then do the refresh/remove. If the device that created the ghost is still powered up, it is still pingable and won't remove.
AFAIK it will for newer GE/JASCO/UltraPro switches and dimmers, I believe that is confirmed. I don't know about other brands...and didn't notice before your post that we didn't ask him what brand switches/dimmers he had! Oops!
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I like the USB procedure: "you should hear happy boops/beeps when it's connected"
lol
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What can I say, I'm a boopy-beepy guy at heart. 
Just wait till you get to the last page of the doc...
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little update.
it was for a customer house. so I was doing everything with the remote admin service and was never able to remove any of the ghost devices.
I went on site, connected to customer's wifi and was able to remove the ghost door lock, first try.
@bobbyD , maybe there is a bug with the remove admin service?
for what it worth, I didn't pull power from the door lock and "remove" worked rightaway.
I have another ghost to remove, like an idiot, I was on site and unable to get rid of it. but I forgot to pull power from it. so ill go back...
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ok so I went back. pull the airgap on the zen72 dimmer, tried to remove device in z-wave setting page 2-3 times. didn't worked.
I showdown the hub, unplug USB, waited 5 minutes, plug USB back and tried to remove again the devices 2-3 times. no success.
came back 20 hours later as I remember reading it may take times for zwave to agree to remove a device. still no success.
and both (0x26 and 0x43) are ghost. I know which device is 0x26, but I have no clue which device is 0x43.
the fact 0x43 shows a route mean the device is online, right? (I remember reading that too)
so what's my next step? bring customer's hub home and do the USB zwave stick thing to get rid of both ghost?
Pulling the air gap may not work. Can you disconnect it all together? (depending some airgaps only gap the switch not the radio so the id's are still there and pingable)
it's a big house with many highend stuff and I would like to avoid turning breakers off. that's why I was thinking at taking the hub away from the house and use the zwave stick trick to get rid of both ghost.
does that sounds like the right next step?
You won't need to take the hub elsewhere if you have a stick. If you don't have the stick going elsewhere may help. Also simply pulling one of the wires in back of the switch would do the same thing.
I have 2 ghost and one I dont know which device it is. so I can't pull power on the ghost device. that's why I was thinking to bring the hub away for the house
the USB stick procedure is clear that I need to pull power from devices before removing their ghost. so is taking the hub away from the house as good as pulling power (when unable to pull power)
