I'm looking to expand my plugin or hard wired receptacles. What brand of each do you recommend for reliability and economy? I'm not that concerned about amp metering. I'll be using for minimal loads (led plugin strip lights, a wifi AP, a humidifier)
Oh, I'm in Canada for location.
I have one of these Z-Wave plug-in appliance modules which works fine (with the caveat that it is regular Z-Wave and doesn't report physical on/off changes, and remember to use double-tap for include/exclude actions); I also like it because it provides a switched and unswitched outlet:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V58HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_lJVRAbETWN02M
If you prefer Zigbee, the Iris Smart Plugs are very good, report power, and provide a Z-Wave Plus repeater. Sometimes they go on sale. These seem to have very good Zigbee radios, at least based on how I see my Zigbee battery powered devices seem to prefer to link to them even when considerably farther away from them than the Hubitat (when I've mapped the mesh with my Digi XStick). Can't vouch for the Z-Wave repeaters effectiveness; some early batches came with marginal radios (so I have read).
As Lowe's has more than one Smart Plug, you would need to choose this one:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Iris-120-Volt-White-Smart-Plug/999925330
I have a small space and some Xiaomi devices so I’ll stick to z wave plugs. I’ll see if I can find a local supplier for the ge plugs. Amazon.ca has them at $120 each. 
Egads. That’s a big upcharge.
Btw, I just checked and found that I was mistaken about them not reporting physical changes-- they do in fact report on/off changes when you push the local on/off button. I was mis-remembering the scenario when I used my Intermatic HA-07 remote to control them (which is paired as a secondary controller to my Z-Wave stuff in Hubitat) that when it controls them, Hubitat doesn’t see the status change (which is to be expected).
I don’t know why Caseta doesn’t have a plug-in switched receptacle and a hardwired switched receptacle to go with their hardwired switch and dimmer, and plugin dimmer. The latter specifically states not to use with anything but lighting, so it’s out for my usage cases.
I assume you are aware of these Leviton plug-in and these Leviton receptacles (.5 HP motors). I don’t have either, but the plug-in is listed Hubitat compatible and ships/sold by Amazon, so if it’s no good, it’s no risk. Not sure about the receptacle compatibility.
I was in Home Depot this morning and picked up one of these Leviton receptacles (Same price as Amazon). [Edit with result] Works fine with the “Generic Z-Wave Switch” driver. Top outlet is switched, bottom is constant power. Would not discover out of the box. Had to factory reset. Didn’t operate after first discovery. Excluded, and needed another factory reset for discovery. Second time it worked.
Just a tip:
I just this week I picked up 3 of those GE Z-wave smart outlets (12719) from Walmart for $15 each! Last fall Walmart was selling them on clearance for $21. The stores in my area were cleaned out 
but it seems they are moving the remaining inventory to stores again. Worth going back to the stores that had them on clearance before. I also bought several of the GE outdoor plug in outlets for $19 and the GE Z-wave plus motions for $19.
Nice price for both. I would particularly like to find an outdoor outlet for that price, but alas, I live in the land of unreasonable markup.
FYI - I've had a LOT of problems getting my GE Z-Wave Plus receptacle / outlet to pair. One outlet finally paired and has worked perfectly since then. One never paired after LOTS of trying. Small sample size, but there's a warning for you. I'm going to try the leviton next.
I realize you are looking for a device that replaces the receptical in an outlet box. However just for information:
I have been using Leviton plug in dimmer modules for 3 or 4 years now. I have 8 of these modules. They have been solid and have had no failures. For most of my automation the recpetical is behind furniture etc so the form factor is not an issue.
For the WiFi AP and humidifier you will need a switch as opposed to a dimmer. One of the above is a switch, again no issues.
The most common resolution for “fails to join” is “didn’t Exclude properly”
Every vendor seems to follow a different method, If you have a Aeon Minimote, use it to Exclude. Or an Aeon Z-Stick.
@csteele thanks for the tip. I read online about the z stick and have a wallmote. I don’t understand how you use those to exclude or manage the network. Could you elucidate?
WallMote is not a MiniMote.
MiniMote isn't made anymore, but the ZStick is.
They were built in two "flavors" The one above has no numbers on the outside buttons,
The one I have does have the buttons numbered:
Inside the "drawer" is marked differently too.
There's no difference in their functionality, especially for Exclude. Push the Exclude (or -) and the LED goes red. Do whatever the device needs to go into Exclude and the Minimote's LEDs show it did something.
The ZStick is an entirely different product with other uses. Hubitat uses these in non-USA builds, for example, because ZWave frequencies change country to country.
Press and hold the only button there is til it turns orange and it's in Exclude mode. Do whatever the device needs to go into Exclude and the ZStick's LED flickers blue then goes back to Orange... ready for the next device. When I migrated from ST to Hubitat, I'd use the stick to clear a room at a time. It stays in exclude for a long time and I could click, click and hole, click multiple... whatever a device needed then go on to the next.
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