one of my plugs get turned off somehow.
I see this line in the event log:
switch off Car Charger was turned off [physical]
what does "physical" mean ?
Nobody can reach this plug, it is in a locked box.
So how does it get turned off physically ?
Does this happen when power coming to the plug is down ?
‘physical’ means that the plug was turned on or off without sending a command from the HE hub before.
Usually this means the pug was operated from the device local on/off physical switch.
However, there are many reports that some of the Tuya-based plugs will automatically switch off on short over-voltage peaks. Some manufacturers published a patch for OTA update (via Tuya GW), but most of the unknown OEMs did not.
Did you have Voltage readings enabled? Any peaks around 250V or higher?
there is a "set power on state" setting on your device handler.
I am not sure what it was before (doesn't show), but now I set it to "last state"
maybe that could save me ?
tuned off again.
I'm going crazy.
I didn't have this issue, until I added the device to Maker API.
But since you say "physical" is really not related to Hub, then it is not Maker API triggered.
@kkossev
Normally I use a 20A plug and normally my usage was not exceeding 17A
Today I saw it goes up to 19.5A
would this be causing the issue ?
Does the plug stop when it goes over 20A ?
I wouldn't trust this plug handling safely 20A... Have you looked at the DIN rail circuit breakers available on AliExpress? Search AE for 'Tuya Zigbee DIN' ...
There are models rated 50A++ , they have configurable under/over voltage and current protection configuration.
Yes! I think that all metering plugs have overcurrent protection (hardcoded in their firmware).
so the suggestion is I remove the zigbee plug and instead of it I use a zigbee DIN which would support up to 40 or 50A
I will be able to turn on/off using the same driver ?
trying to see if I get it correct.
Yes that is correct. I had an unused second phase (under floor heating never used), the 40A breaker was installed on this second phase with a dedicated 32A feed to my EV charger. The inbuilt timer on the charger (and car) left a lot to be desired so using this driver I can control the charging of the car to sunny days (solar) and between 12am-6am on the EV tariff. Lots of data to measure and graph.
Obviously, you need a dedicated electrical circuit from your switchboard to your appliance, if not you will be turning everything else on and off on the circuit. And installing the circuit breaker is a job for a certified electrician.
You need to understand the maximum amp draw of your EVs battery and build a dedicated circuit from the switchboard to the EV charger. This may mean upgrading the circuit breaker, cabling and switch outlet. I built the electrical circuit to 32A to fast charge the battery, although the EV battery is restricted to draw a maximum of around 16A .
thank you. I already have a dedicated circuit from my switchboard. It supports up to 50A
I had installed a 20A plug (discussed in this thread) because my charger is 16A and I never thought I would hit the 20A limit of the plug with a 16A charger. I'm still surprised to see that it can draw 20A
So now I will just change the plug with this suggested DIN circuit braker.I guess no need for an electrician. (I know how to insert a breaker to a circuit.)