[Release] HubDuino v1.1.4 - Hubitat to Arduino / ESP8266 / ESP32 / ThingShield Integration (ST_Anything)

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#528

See my updates above... sorry for typing while thinking aloud...

The second pair (NodeMCU + 4 CHannel relay module) may be the quicker route to success, but not as a nice of a package. Should be much easier to program, though.


#529

I've looked at several of the ESP-Relay devices and none of them expose the UART pins for programming so this one is kind of unique. In fact most of them specifically say you can't flash your own firmware. So, this is a great find Dan. It seems that all you would need is a USB/UART adapter to program just like you would an ESP01 module.

The datasheet is here:
http://linksprite.com/wiki/index.php5?title=LinkNode_R4:_Arduino-compatible_WiFi_relay_controller

If all you're doing is 4 relays for a board, this is the perfect package. Board and relays for under $12. That's SUPER cheap.


#530

Yep! I may order one just to play around with it and see if I can get HubDuino running on it without too much trouble.


#531

TX. RX and ground are exposed right at the top and there's a jumper for flash or program boot. Actually, it's EASIER to program than an ESP-01. LOL It even has indicator LEDs! I don't need a 4 relay board at the moment either but for <$12 you almost HAVE to buy it, just in case. :wink:


#532

LOL. Well maybe I'll just let the two experienced guys try it first. I'm not able to get some of this stuff off Amazon here, but I'm on my way to Oregon next month, so I can ship stuff to my parents house. Just have to keep the amount I carry home to a minimum. :grinning: Already have a Google Home Hub, the free GH Mini I got from Spotify (Thanks again @ogiewon for that one), and a Caséta fan controller to bring back.


#533

:rofl: They want $37.60 CAD for that adapter on Amazon.ca
Sometimes the Canadian pricing is just stupid.


#534

Okay, here's one for $6.99 CA. Was probably related to the seller of that other one.


#535

Cool. So when I'm done using that to program, I can use it to power the fob with the 3.3v output on it.

Thanks. I'll dig into the thread tonight and see if I can wrap my head around it.


#536

I just ordered the Linknode R4 relay all in one module. I’ll see what it takes to get HubDuino running on it. This would also make a nice sprinkler controller.


#537

I did something VERY similar to what you're doing with an RF fan remote before the Hampton zigbee unit came out. Worked very well, expect when it got out of sync with ST. Should be a LOT more effective off something that isn't changed as frequently and has more limited options. Are you planning on wiring across the buttons to the relays?

I would be careful about sacraficing your programmer though. You never know when you might need to reprogram the board because of some change to something. There are much cheaper options if you're looking to get 3.3v. I use one of these to power my ST Arrival sensor off a 5v usb outlet.


#538

@Ryan780 @SmartHomePrimer

I was able to load a sketch on to the LinkSprite LinkNode R4 board tonight. It was pretty simple after all... Here is the new example sketch for this particular board. The hardest part is getting the USB to Serial adapter wired up and then manually configuring the Arduino IDE to program the board. Within the sketch I included the LinkSprite URL with the Arduino IDE programming instructions. I used Arduino IDE 1.8.8 with ESP8266 v2.4.2. Have fun!

UPDATE: There was one gotcha! The MAC Address reported in the Arduino IDE Serial Monitor window is not correct for some unknown reason. I used the Hubitat Live Logs to determine the MAC address that this board was actually using. You could also check your router's DHCP leases to figure it out.


#539

That's great news. Thanks Dan!


#540

That's a good point. Those will be handy to have around. I'll order some.
Appreciate the .ca link too :grin:


#541

Thanks for the head's up on the MAC address. That would have been rather tough to find.


#542

Just to chime in here I have used Hubdino with the nodemcu and the 2 channel version of the 4 relay unit shown above for my garage doors. Works perfectly! There is also the D1 Mini version of the nodemcu that has a single channel relay shield that stacks on top of the D1 mini.

I have also flashed Hubdino to these outlets. Need to be able to solder though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077XXT8WJ


#543

Really?!?! I've been looking for a couple cheap outlets for Xmas lights and things like my air fresheners (i'm gone for weeks at a time...no sense the house smelling nice for nobody). Do you have a walkthrough on how to break these down to flash them? That would be awesome!


#544

The procedure is not for the faint of heart. I'll give you a quick guide.

  1. You need to pry the case open with a couple of small screwdrivers (like precision screwdrivers). I start at the side where the USB port is. It can be done without damaging the case but it may get a little marred on the backside.

  2. Inside you'll find a nice little ESP-12 module sitting on a circuit board that plugs into the main board which can be unplugged, and powered with a 5v supply and flashed with a usb to ttl module as linked to earlier. You will also need some 26 or 28 gauge solid wire, (I used some cat5 wire), and 2 momentary pushbutton switches, a small breadboard helps too.

  3. The ESP module on the removable board follows the standard pin outs. If you orient the board with the esp module to the right with the pcb antenna on the top. the pins are as follows: Top left = reset, top right = TX, right side next pin down = RX, right side 5th down, gpio0 hold low during reset to enable flash. There are small holes that the the cat5 wire will fit into (then solder in place, you can see them in 3rd picture) that will enable you to use test clips to connect to the pushbuttons, and usb/ttl module to enable to to reset and flash the chip. Make sure you get a usb/ttl module that is 3.3v compatible. I used this exact one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075N82CDL

On the back of the module you'll find two headers one labeled "5v" (5v positive) (top right last picture) and one labeled MOS (ground) (bottom right last picture). These can be used to power the device during programming. The other header (top left) connects to the relay.

To flash the esp you have to connect gpio to ground (through pushbutton) then connect reset to ground (through pushbutton) then release reset while still hold the flash button for a few seconds. You should be then able to upload the code from the Arduino IDE. You have to set the IDE to "generic esp8266" and the flash size to 1M.

Heres the clips: https://www.amazon.com/JIUWU-Test-Ideal-Electronic-Experiment/dp/B00NHG8Q5U

The relay is on GPIO12 "low" is off, the button on the outlet is on GPIO13.

I have 6 of these running now with 4 more on the way. NOTE: The first 6 were the Zentec brand (insides pictured in this post).

The ones i linked to above are en route but the case looks identical so as with most chinese stuff they should be identical inside.

I also added a DHT22 temp/humidity module to one of the switches. My basement dehumidifier is connected to it. I doesn't look glamorous but it does the job.

Here's some inside pictures:





#545

Thanks! Since you only have to solder in the TX and RX it's actually not all that bad. Since you have to pull GPIO0 and RST to ground to get the module into flash, that should be easy enough to do with test leads rather than soldering them in. And since there's a ground pin on the back, that would be easy to set up (I build myself some test leads with dupont connectors on the other end. It's not like you have to remove the whole ESP module from the board. They're only $7.99 so I think I might pick one up and give it a try. Thanks so much!


#546

Your welcome, I ended up soldering leads to reset and gpio0 also because I was not able to get the test clips to stay connected. Buy the 2 pack it drops the price to $7 ea.


#547

yeah...I meant like straight, needle-like leads.

image

Since you're only connecting to reset and GPIO0 for a second. RX & TX need a much firmer connection though.