[RELEASE] Fibaro Smart Implant FGBS-222

I have, Native doesnt have an option to configure "Input/Output 1 - Local Device Protection" - without this my SM is useless to me.

Btw, One thing I did not do was connect my Garage door switch to OUT1 until after I'd included it because I didn't want it closing the garage door on me. Everything else works perfectly, just not closing the door.

That said, with the HE driver installed, it will close the door on me if it detects the normally open sensor is open - so I know the relay does work.

Actually, I was just looking at native and there is an option that seems to do that. Have you tried it?

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Ah, I was looking for the more formal description. :man_facepalming:

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and that works perfectly, Thanks Mr P! :+1:

Now for my next trick, how do I manually delete all the child devices created by the user driver?

EDIT: of course there is a driver for that! :man_facepalming:

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That happened recently to someone having a HE C7 model. Several Z-Wave messages to the implant got lost/buffers were overrun. The driver checks the status of the configuration parameters and writes a status message for each to the debug log. There is no retry mechanism in the driver at this time. Maybe I should make it clearer when something like that happens, like displaying a message in the device page. Retrying "configure" should eventually set the misconfigured parameters correctly.

While writing the driver, it happened to me once in a blue moon that a parameter was not set correctly by the implant on a C5.

It is set using the "protection" command class instead of the "configuration" command class.

This is the definition of a normally closed sensor, not open. My driver has the open/closed reversed as noted at the beginning of this thread.

I have a C7 too so that makes sense.

LOL, I thought it was the opposite because that’s how it’s marked on my security sensor.

That's interesting that you got it to work on your C7. I tried multiple ways with both drivers and I couldn't get the inputs to report properly without a refresh. I ended up pairing the devices to my old ST hub until 2.24 is released, as I was told by staff that it should be fixed.
So you got the alarm mode inputs working properly on your C7?

Only the Hubitat driver works for me, the driver by Chris won’t operate the door.

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And how about the inputs? Do they work for you reporting changes as they happen?

@MrPancake @dJOS, you could always try to increase the delay between the commands sent to the implant to improve the chances that configuration succeed. Right now there is a 500 ms delay in between commands, you could try 1000 or 2000 at line 716 of the main driver file.

Thanks @christi999, at this point I will just wait for the 2.24 release. If it still doesn't fix it, I might give the delay change a go.
But the issues I had didn't seem simply a matter of configurations not being sent. Was that the impression you got from the logs I sent you?

It looked like many messages were not getting to the implant after a certain number of them were sent, I would assume that sending them more slowly will probably help.

Yes that part works well.

That seems likely to be the issue - im using the HE driver for now but it has some issues which concern me:

  1. Everytime I save the settings / configure the door it triggers the Output opening/closing the door.
  2. Every change requires a manual Re-sync / refresh of the contact Sensor - is this going to be the case after power outages too?

Hopefully your driver doesn't have these issues.

I was curious and did some googling - my understanding (I have an electronics background but my studies were 25 years ago and 90% of my work life has been in ICT) and the way my sensor works is consistent with all of the articles I've found. You got it correct the first time.

http://www.omron.com.au/service_support/FAQ/FAQ00391/index.asp

NO:
When there is a sensing object within sensing range, transistor output is ON.

NC:
When there is not a sensing object within sensing range, transistor output is ON.

PS, in electronics / electrical language - Open means no continuity/connection and therefore an incomplete circuit. Closed means the circuit is complete and there is continuity/connection.

So to expand on this - an NO sensor will have no continuity when the magnet is removed as it is an Open circuit and there is no continuity across the terminals. When the magnet is present the circuit is completed making it a closed circuit.

An NC sensor is the opposite, with no magnet next to it, the circuit is complete and has continuity across the terminals. When the magnet is present the circuit is broken making it an open circuit.

For security systems in general (i.e monitoring of window and door openings...) it is the opposite. You can check that on security systems website or in the description of sensors being sold for that purpose.

Lol, digging deeper shows that there are both interpretations ... what a surprise that an industry can't agree on a standard naming convention. :man_facepalming:

My sensor was sold as a Security Sensor and can operate in both modes - it's labeled in the traditional electrical fashion.

Yeah it's not 100% but most of what I have seen around here has "normally closed" corresponding to an opening being normally closed and the device having continuity (contact is ON), which allows to create a loop with multiple devices in series using a single circuit.

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update

customer care replied and apparently i did not know that i can do a reset. my included instructions were a tiny paper with a few examples of how to wire it. i downloaded the instructions of the fibaro site and they have more info than the ones i have.

anyways i got that to work.

(hold the button down until it goes yellow then release the button and click it again once to confirm.)

i re-included it. and hooked up (2) contact sensor buttons (momentary switches) and (2) ds18b20 temp sensors to test it out., it worked great!

then i decided for an experiment i would hook up all 6 temp sensors and 2 contact sensors
i can only get 2 digital temp sensors to read actualy temperature the others just read 68 deg and the contact sensors are really slow to respond now.
with 2 temp sensors and 2 contact sensors they responded instantly on the dashboard.

does the voltage the things is run on have anything to do with it ? i have it on a 12v 3 amp wall wort