I have tried the Honeywell T6 pro and could not make it work as it was closing when it should open and vice versa. I have 4 wires from the actuators connected to RH, O/B, W/E, and C.
The Sensi thermostats are set to Outdoor: AC2, indoor: EL2, 2, Fn:OFF , AA, 0d
Sounds like the T6 was simply doing things backwards. Your actuators appear to have SPDT inputs which means you could just reverse your thermostat to white/grey connections to make it work correctly.
edit, looking at the install guide for the actuator now and it could be more complicated as you may not be using an aux switch equipped valve. But I still think you may simply have some wires reversed to the T6. Can you give me what actuator wires your RH, O/B, W/E, and C connectons were terminated on?
Thanks for your willingness to help! The thinking was the same but even after reversing the wires and playing with a multimeter I could not find a way to make it work. Once reversed the behavior of the actuator was it was opening and closing nonstop instead of staying open (heat on). In the heat off position it would close and stay closed. The actuators are wired as:
Actuator <-------> Thermostat
Red <----------> RH
Blue <----------> C
Black <----------> W/E
Brown <----------> O/B
Thank you for the tip. Looking at the Sinope site there are many different models. Which one do you think would work with the Honeywell actuators I have please?
So you are connecting to the spdt. o/b is a reversing valve signal for heat pumps and you do need to set the thermostat to actuate it for heating and not for cooling. Careful if you have a heat pump here because the tstat settings need to follow the heat pump's instructions for this wire.
But if you just want to actuate the floor heating when the t-stat is calling for heat on W then it may be that all you need is the shown SPST configuration. According to the diagram on page 5 only three wires are used (Brown, Black, Blue). So on a conventional furnace where W calls for heat, here's a connection strategy to consider:
Actuator <--------> Thermostat
Brown <----------> RH (constant 24v)
Black <-----------> W (24V when tstat is calling for heat)
Blue <-----------> C (common wire)
RH should already be connected at the t-stat from the furnace supplying 24v and will probably be jumpered to RC if you have a combined heating/AC system. You can either power the actuator from there or from the furnace itself. Likewise with C.
If you have a heat pump system then O/B is for the reversing valve and your issue might be there if 24v = reversing valve to cool on your heat pump. Also I don't see a red wire on any of the actuator diagrams.
I think the zigbee version low voltage Sinope Thermostat would work best for those valves. I also use Sinope Thermostats for my electric baseboards and agree that they are quite spectactular.
Thanks, I don't have a heat pump - it's a natural gas boiler combo) for on demand domestic (shower, sinks, etc.) and the water to heat the floors. The thermostat only opens the actuator and as that gets opened, centralized pump with variable pump rate pushes the water through the under floor pumps.
The wire might be orange, not red - they have put the system in space with very limited access - need a headlamp to get to there
But all 4 wires are connected from the actuators to the thermostats
